Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If it was originally a GTS4 (i.e it is 4wd) it would be ENR33. I tried them all this morning, and no combination would work.

F = CA18

H = RB20

E = RB25

B = RB26

C = Super HICAS

N = Atessa

R = Chassis

CHASSIS CODES

-ER -- GTS25

-HR -- GTS

-ECR -- GTS25t

-ENR -- GTS-4

-BCNR -- GTR

Yes, if it says ECR, it is a turbo chassis/engine. The brakes are different, the number of wheel studs are different... i'm sure there are many other differences. If you had a motor swap, and you have a DE (Dual overhead, EFI) then either the plate is wrong, or the motor was swapped out.

So... if your chassis was a turbo model you should have 5-stud wheels, a stronger gearbox (not sure how to tell, but it could be a manual-only thing), obviously you'd have no boost gauge in the dash. The side-mount intercooler would have plumbed through the engine bay via two holes infront of the air filter box. That should be very obvious.

Check those things? If the chassis has all non-turbo parts, I would *guess* there is something wrong with that plate. Strangely though, that plate doesn't belong to another chassis... it just doesn't exist. =-o

Let us know.

-Steve

OKAY well the brakes i have are slotted rotors? the wheels I have are SUPER ADVAN Racing Ver.2, all i can count is 4 studs? gearbox is auto, has 2nd/3rd/Drive gears, the intercooler takes up the whole front bumper? and has pipes going down each side of the front bumper? the air filter box is there but the rest of the CAI isnt..? its all been registered and been thru regency.. and im sure it is a turbo.. did you get PHOTOS to ur email????

If it was originally a GTS4 (i.e it is 4wd) it would be ENR33. I tried them all this morning, and no combination would work.

F = CA18

H = RB20

E = RB25

B = RB26

C = Super HICAS

N = Atessa

R = Chassis

CHASSIS CODES

-ER -- GTS25

-HR -- GTS

-ECR -- GTS25t

-ENR -- GTS-4

-BCNR -- GTR

Yes, if it says ECR, it is a turbo chassis/engine. The brakes are different, the number of wheel studs are different... i'm sure there are many other differences. If you had a motor swap, and you have a DE (Dual overhead, EFI) then either the plate is wrong, or the motor was swapped out.

So... if your chassis was a turbo model you should have 5-stud wheels, a stronger gearbox (not sure how to tell, but it could be a manual-only thing), obviously you'd have no boost gauge in the dash. The side-mount intercooler would have plumbed through the engine bay via two holes infront of the air filter box. That should be very obvious.

Check those things? If the chassis has all non-turbo parts, I would *guess* there is something wrong with that plate. Strangely though, that plate doesn't belong to another chassis... it just doesn't exist. =-o

Let us know.

-Steve

a strange occurence i saw in the opposite direction was a series 1.5 96 model GTS25T 4 door. ER33 plate with RB25DET engine printed on it. full turbo everything but ER instead of ECR. strange ....

G'day mate could you check this vin it's meant to be a 1990 r32 gtr nismo gunmetal kh2 paint code

Vin: BNR32-100032

Model: KBNR32RXFSL RA

also if it's possible to find out If it had a/c and radio as I've been told that it was an option on the nismo

Cant tell you about the options, but its definatley a Nismo, if the chassis number starts with a 10XXXX, your particular one is number 32 out of 560?ish

Plus the model number ends in RA. Nice find.

G'day mate could you check this vin it's meant to be a 1990 r32 gtr nismo gunmetal kh2 paint code

Vin: BNR32-100032

Model: KBNR32RXFSL RA

also if it's possible to find out If it had a/c and radio as I've been told that it was an option on the nismo

Big ask! We need someone who can read Japanese, I think. ;o)

The specs:

post-3573-0-82157500-1313371666_thumb.png

F = Manual 5 Speed, S = EFI?, The L-M-A is your L-R-A

post-3573-0-73030600-1313371667_thumb.png

VS1 box = L... No idea what that says. There is no "R" that I can see, but the first item in VS2 is in Japanese.

"A" in the first box is also in Japanese.

post-3573-0-47556800-1313371668_thumb.png

More specs of LRA

post-3573-0-17517700-1313371669_thumb.png

Cheers Randy your a champ.

Yeah thought that might be a hard ask but there is a fair amount of info there I'll send it onto japan to a fella over there and see if he can get a translation of the japananese

Are you able to check engine numbers?

I have a rb26 with the engine number RB26-009627A

Trying to work out what it's out of. It's going into my 180sx. I've trawled the net for the last hour with no real luck and I'm only on my iPhone.

Cheers

Are you able to check engine numbers?

I have a rb26 with the engine number RB26-009627A

Trying to work out what it's out of. It's going into my 180sx. I've trawled the net for the last hour with no real luck and I'm only on my iPhone.

Cheers

Sorry mate, can't look those up. I would think there would be some info on SAU somewhere though?

32's don't seem to have a series, but r33's had three series! The 33 oil pumps had a bigger locator or something. I'm sure there must be lots of little differences like that, that you could spot if you could find the info.

edit: My mate says late 32's had the stronger oil pump too.

That GTR mate of mine is quite helpful!

http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=47:engine-number-register&catid=42:engine-number-registers&Itemid=2

Based on that (and I think more people should submit their engine numbers anonymously to this site), you have a REALLY early 32 GTr engine with the smaller oil pump drive. =-]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
    • I had my car for over 10 years and done around few thousand miles but never changed the oil. thinking of changing it.   what brand and viscocity would you put in ? people seem to use redline shockproof in the diff   on  contraty seen others using atf dexron 2 or 3 so wanted to check. is it 1 liter?
×
×
  • Create New...