Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In that case, you may well still have the auto diff which means lower top speed but quicker acceleration. (like mine) :woot:

Need to try find a couple of R33 brochures I have and put on my magical japanese head for translating some of these questions. :/

Miguelone may be onto something...

Can anyone else break the code???

Edited by Not a Pulsar

can someone do BNR34006208 + show optional extras

and can anyone tell me what the little x's mean in the model code GGJPRWY34Zxxxxx-x

The first x after the Z is not a D, which i haven't seen before on a r34 model code.

Thanks in advance

can someone do BNR34006208 + show optional extras

and can anyone tell me what the little x's mean in the model code GGJPRWY34Zxxxxx-x

The first x after the Z is not a D, which i haven't seen before on a r34 model code.

Thanks in advance

vwxwys.png

Can't help with decoding R34 model codes :/, had a quick look on the net and couldn't find any info unlike with 32's & 33's.

Edit: found something

15yr0m.png

The character after the Z is the destination, As far as I know the only place outside of Japan 34GTR's were sold was the UK and not very many. Could your R have come from the UK?

thanks mate.

I was looking through the workshop manual (thats where that model variation image is from) when i decided to check my model code and that extra Z caught my eye.

It could have come from the UK - anythings possible - i also think a few got sold in NZ too

i'll check out the uk site and see what i can come up with.

mmm could be that. i know the r33 had a cold district specification, so it makes sense that the r34 had one. I don't think i have heated mirrors though

Regardless, the car's in pretty good condition if it came from a snow region.

post-78856-0-17899800-1348211497_thumb.jpg

Thx mate not sure about the model code and what it means RNR32GASLMDB but it says engine RB20DT but it is a DET does that mean orig it wasn't tubo and was fitted later?

What does 4K and the HI . 4WD mean? Prod M/Y 9007 does that mean build date July 1990?

I really do appreciate you taking the time to look it up for me, thx heaps.

fastformyskyline.jpg

Edited by Aljo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Looking at finally painting and installing my R32 GTR wing I bought back in 2018. I got two quotes: Quote 1: $880 includes: wing, spare boot, holes welded up prep/paint. Pro: full boot with wing AND hole-less boot with lip i can swap between Con: $$  Quote 2: $330 wing only. Pro: cheaper Con: lose my (relatively) rare no holes sedan boot Also to consider I do plan on painting my whole car at some point "soon" (been saying that since 2018) Anyway Enjoy these All Japan Day 2025 pictures of my 4 door, still rocking the Calsonic Livery! Rolling in Interior shot Matching Peer Pressure Racing overalls are pretty cute ngl. This year was a hard 1990 cut so I got to be over with all the older cool stuff Next to arguably the best car there. A mighty S-Cargo
    • I personally would run 2x from the cam covers into the catch can, 1x sump vent to catch can (would mount this at a low point of the catch can, so it can also act as a drain). I would see if you can run a -12AN down there to improve venting and also draining. The head drain thing, just drain that back to the sump on the other side. Catch can to be vented, unless you plumb or back to the intake.
    • Yeah the head "drain" is rather a sump/crank case vent. My catch can stopped filling up after venting the sump to the catch can. I have 4x fittings in mine, which is about 5Ls. 2x cam, 1x sump vent/catch can drain, 1x fitting back to the intake and a massive breather which can be blocked so it's a fully sealed system.
    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...