Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks a heap Rob! i've figured out the rest of my model coding, but can't find what the KJB at the end means?

K = something in Japanese???

J = something in Japanese???

B = Double Din 8 speaker sound system. post-78856-0-45296900-1355534595_thumb.jpg

What's your model code? and build date

LOL. Pretty sure you did mine Michael. Been meaning to thank you for it. :thumbsup:

I'd just like to know exactly what it all says and means.

ECR33 110332 Built = 96/06

post-78856-0-60399800-1355570820_thumb.jpg post-78856-0-77292900-1355570329_thumb.jpg

Edited by Not a Pulsar

LOL. Pretty sure you did mine Michael. Been meaning to thank you for it. :thumbsup:

I'd just like to know exactly what it all says and means.

ECR33 110332 Built = 96/06

post-78856-0-60399800-1355570820_thumb.jpg post-78856-0-77292900-1355570329_thumb.jpg

Only did the Japanese. Sorry about the formatting, the forum automatically removes spaces etc.

1) Four Door sedan

Two door Coupe, Autech version 4 door sedan

2) RB20E Type engine

RB25DE (T) Type engine

RB26DETT Type engine

4) No Super HICAS 2WD

Super HICAS 2WD

No Super HICAS 4WD

Super HICAS 4WD

5) Right hand drive

6) E Type S

Q GTR, GTR Autech Version, 40th anniversary

T Type M1, Type M2

V Type M

W GTR V spec, GTR N1 spec

7) 4 speed floor shift with torque converter

5 speed floor shift

5 speed floor shift with torque converter

11) EG1 spec

Intercooler turbo spec

Intercooler twin turbo spec

12) Domestic

Domestic (cold district)

13) Standard

16) Sports seat, GTS25T Type M1 (4 door)

17) No audio

18) Passenger seat airbag

Edited by *LOACH*

Only did the Japanese. Sorry about the formatting, the forum automatically removes spaces etc.

Thanks Mate !!!

Hey, can i get this car done: ER34031990

Car is supposedly an NA, Has red gt badges though.

post-78856-0-33867500-1355645733_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
    • Yeah titanium always looks cool but I don't need that, just regular pipes would be fine. But I am really struggling to find any full hardpipe kit that is still for sale.
    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
×
×
  • Create New...