Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In that case, you may well still have the auto diff which means lower top speed but quicker acceleration. (like mine) :woot:

Need to try find a couple of R33 brochures I have and put on my magical japanese head for translating some of these questions. :/

Miguelone may be onto something...

Can anyone else break the code???

Edited by Not a Pulsar

can someone do BNR34006208 + show optional extras

and can anyone tell me what the little x's mean in the model code GGJPRWY34Zxxxxx-x

The first x after the Z is not a D, which i haven't seen before on a r34 model code.

Thanks in advance

can someone do BNR34006208 + show optional extras

and can anyone tell me what the little x's mean in the model code GGJPRWY34Zxxxxx-x

The first x after the Z is not a D, which i haven't seen before on a r34 model code.

Thanks in advance

vwxwys.png

Can't help with decoding R34 model codes :/, had a quick look on the net and couldn't find any info unlike with 32's & 33's.

Edit: found something

15yr0m.png

The character after the Z is the destination, As far as I know the only place outside of Japan 34GTR's were sold was the UK and not very many. Could your R have come from the UK?

thanks mate.

I was looking through the workshop manual (thats where that model variation image is from) when i decided to check my model code and that extra Z caught my eye.

It could have come from the UK - anythings possible - i also think a few got sold in NZ too

i'll check out the uk site and see what i can come up with.

mmm could be that. i know the r33 had a cold district specification, so it makes sense that the r34 had one. I don't think i have heated mirrors though

Regardless, the car's in pretty good condition if it came from a snow region.

post-78856-0-17899800-1348211497_thumb.jpg

Thx mate not sure about the model code and what it means RNR32GASLMDB but it says engine RB20DT but it is a DET does that mean orig it wasn't tubo and was fitted later?

What does 4K and the HI . 4WD mean? Prod M/Y 9007 does that mean build date July 1990?

I really do appreciate you taking the time to look it up for me, thx heaps.

fastformyskyline.jpg

Edited by Aljo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there.  At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it
    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
×
×
  • Create New...