Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, it has been about a year since I have played with my car and it's time to upgrade the 20.

When giving your advice please take into consideration, Iwill NOT myself be able to put a motor together, pull one out and put another one in. ALSO please look at the mods I already have and what can be utilised.

I basically want expeience on what would be a better way to upgrade and spend money takng into account logevity, power, reliability, whether it's going to be legal on the road.

Power target would be 300RWKW.

The car is a daily drive and has some track days here and there

Prices, power and experiece would be prefered.

Cheers

CURRENT MODS @ 220RWKW

1989 r32 sedan

Standard internals

Apexi FMIC

Apexi Power FC

Garrett 28RS turbo

GTR injectors

GTR fuel pump

Standard AFM

Air pod with heat shield

Spit fire coils

3 1/4 exhaust from turbo

HKS suspension

Upgraded brakes

Heavy patrol clutch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128498-rb26-v-rb25-v-rb30/
Share on other sites

I think you will strugle to make close to that with the RB20, will do it with a 25 but all you will be able to use is your FMIC & coil packs. the rest you will be able to sell. It is possible to make 250rwkw with a 20 if you squeeze it hard enough, otherwise Rb25 with about 12k worth of bolt ons and labour to fabricate & fit etc. 25 will make this power with standard internals but bolt ons are not cheap. can also make 250kw comfortably with less modification and expense.

  quincy777 said:
Hi all, it has been about a year since I have played with my car and it's time to upgrade the 20.

When giving your advice please take into consideration, Iwill NOT myself be able to put a motor together, pull one out and put another one in. ALSO please look at the mods I already have and what can be utilised.

I basically want expeience on what would be a better way to upgrade and spend money takng into account logevity, power, reliability, whether it's going to be legal on the road.

Power target would be 300RWKW.

The car is a daily drive and has some track days here and there

Prices, power and experiece would be prefered.

Cheers

CURRENT MODS @ 220RWKW

1989 r32 sedan

Standard internals

Apexi FMIC

Apexi Power FC

Garrett 28RS turbo

GTR injectors

GTR fuel pump

Standard AFM

Air pod with heat shield

Spit fire coils

3 1/4 exhaust from turbo

HKS suspension

Upgraded brakes

Heavy patrol clutch

Since you are not going to do this upgrade yourself, what we tell you (parts and prices) is pretty useless. You need to find a workshop and ask them.

Doing it as cheaply as possible, following is an indicator of what I would keep, modify or sell

1989 r32 sedan = keep

Standard RB20 internals = Sell, buy a complete RB25DET

Apexi FMIC = keep

Apexi Power FC = Keep

Garrett 28RS turbo = Sell, upgrade to GT30

GTR injectors = Keep

GTR fuel pump = Keep

Standard AFM = Sell, upgrade to Z32

Air pod with heat shield = Keep

Spit fire coils = Keep

3 1/4 exhaust from turbo = Keep

HKS suspension = Yuk

Upgraded brakes = Keep

Heavy patrol clutch = Keep

Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator = Buy

Take the RB20DET inlet manifold off and swap it onto the RB25DET so you can use the GTR injectors. If you haven’t already done it, run a dedicated wiring harness (from the battery) and relay to the fuel pump, that will give it 13.8 volts which will be enough for 300 rwkw. The Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator will enable you to stretch the injectors to 300 rwkw by increasing the fuel pressure from 36-38 psi (standard) to 45 psi. I would use new rubber fuel hoses and clamps, 1989 one will be well past it. Ditto the vacuum lines, all of them.

Depending on the current condition of the RB20DET gearbox and how you treat it, it might last a while, but I would budget on upgrading to an RB25DET gearbox fairly soon.

My guess on prices;

RB25DET $2,500

GT30 turbo $2,600

RB25DET gearbox $1,500

Install, wiring changes and tuning labour $3,000 (I added $500 for contingency because shit happens)

Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator $150 (Nengun)

Z32 AFM $300

Total = $10,050

My suggestion, sell the R32GTST and buy an R33GTST, it will be cheaper.

:) cheers :)

If you want 300rwkws, and thats more important then the car you are driving, then i woudl consider selling the R32 and buying a neat R33.

There are a few good examples with the mods and power already which are for sale. Ask Wayne to see what he thinks of INASNTs cxar. Im nto sure hwat he is askign but its a nice and grunty R33.

  Munna1 said:
SK will the GTR injectors fit in the RB25?

No, that's why I said

  Quote
Take the RB20DET inlet manifold off and swap it onto the RB25DET so you can use the GTR injectors.

:woot: cheers ;)

  Roy said:
If you want 300rwkws, and thats more important then the car you are driving, then i woudl consider selling the R32 and buying a neat R33.

There are a few good examples with the mods and power already which are for sale. Ask Wayne to see what he thinks of INASNTs cxar. Im nto sure hwat he is askign but its a nice and grunty R33.

Here here... Sounds like a plan.. Slightly newer whale, better gearbox and motor to start off with without rego hassles.

The only downside you lack the little R32 hard edge race car feel. All depends what you want out of your car and what you want to use it for.

Am definatly going to keep the r32. Just rather than replacing with another rb20 am thinking of upgrading and getting some more power also. It will be mainly a street car with some track work every now again.

Is RB30 illegal for street or going to be too expensive, was thinking lots would have suggested it.

Cheers

single turbo RB30(25)DET only requires normal road worthy and emmissions test for legal rego (according to SA statment of requirments) but RB30(26)DETT would require bigger brakes, weight to power ratio test, etc. given that both engines look stockish with all the extra bits that do nothing but look like they make it economical.

A single turbo three liter twin cam is considered to be the same as a VL turbo and R32 gts-t has better brakes than a VL so it passes with little testing, but a twin turbo is considered to be more like a GTR so more requirments to get legal.

Edited by =premo=
  quincy777 said:
Am definatly going to keep the r32. Just rather than replacing with another rb20 am thinking of upgrading and getting some more power also. It will be mainly a street car with some track work every now again.

Is RB30 illegal for street or going to be too expensive, was thinking lots would have suggested it.

Cheers

ok quincy,

If your heart is set on the r32 (i like the little gts 32 aswell) and alot of the other options are really adding up to big dollars maybe you might concider

stay with the rb20

buy gtr crank and rods $600 (bolt in fit)

Tomei forged rb24 pistons (i have heard 4g63 can be used but i have not confirmed this)$1500

Tomei cams 260 deg 8.8mm lash with cam wheels $1100

With the increased capacity and performance of the cams i think you could easily upgrade your turbo with any increases in lag (if tune right), just don't aim to big the turbo that seems to be around your size required and has produced 400rwhp on 2.4litre engine is the gt3071r $1695 you'll need external gate $400

you'll need gaskets, bearing etc (all the gear for full rebuild) ~$1000

but the bonus is at the end of the day you'll have a brand new motor 2.4 litres that doesn't require any alterations to fit like your other options and has forged internals great torque(has longer stroke than rb25) for your track work. The risk you run of buying a second upgrade motor is the condition is unknown and the life exspectance of it is unkown and eve.

Alot of the things sydneykid mentioned i would do regardless of the package you go for ie the direct electrical feed to fuel pump, z32 afm and fuel regulator etc

end of the day i think this would be your cheaper option and you'll have brand new motor that can really take more punishment than a std second replacement. I hope i may have just given you another option to consider for your upgrade.

pete

ps its just another option

  =premo= said:
single turbo RB30(25)DET only requires normal road worthy and emmissions test for legal rego (according to SA statment of requirments) but RB30(26)DETT would require bigger brakes, weight to power ratio test, etc. given that both engines look stockish with all the extra bits that do nothing but look like they make it economical

A single turbo three liter twin cam is considered to be the same as a VL turbo and R32 gts-t has better brakes than a VL so it passes, but a twin turbo is considered to be more like a GTR so more requirments to get legal.

Which is roughly what I too was told by regency.

There's no real drama, but the problem is getting the emmissions test, it must also be run on the std ecu, which it does and can... Sure the stock ecu fuel cuts on boost but they don't test on boost so there's no problem there. :P

Hi, just wondering, if you were to add a complete RB25DE from an R32 to this scenario, what could you do to mix and match and produce a nice package?

Would you be able to create a nice RB25DET from the 2 engines combined considering that the Power FC, injectors and other bits are straight fit onto RB25DE from an R32.

QUOTE

Take the RB20DET inlet manifold off and swap it onto the RB25DET so you can use the GTR injectors.

Aren't rb20det and rb25det inlet manifolds a different bolt pattern?

I know rb20det and r32 rb25de are the same but I've been told an rb25det manifold won't bolt up to either.

quincy777

I had to make exactly the same decision as you.

My r32 had equivalent mods to your car but I wanted more.

I had planned to go the rb30/25det route but an r32 rb25de accidently came into my possession when I bought a halfcut for panels.

I realised I didn't need 300rwkw atm and decided to keep my 2530 and use it on the rb25 rebuilt with forgies and rb26 crank and rods.

I can always get a bigger turbo later if I feel the need.

Booster - did you rebuild the RB25de from R32?

I was also thinking of going RB25/30 but want to keep my Auto box, which means I'll also have to keep my 7500 RPM rev limit.

So now I'm thinking what can be done with the current RB20 setup together with a R32 RB25de I have sitting in the garage.

I'd be happy with reliable 220-230 rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...