Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, it has been about a year since I have played with my car and it's time to upgrade the 20.

When giving your advice please take into consideration, Iwill NOT myself be able to put a motor together, pull one out and put another one in. ALSO please look at the mods I already have and what can be utilised.

I basically want expeience on what would be a better way to upgrade and spend money takng into account logevity, power, reliability, whether it's going to be legal on the road.

Power target would be 300RWKW.

The car is a daily drive and has some track days here and there

Prices, power and experiece would be prefered.

Cheers

CURRENT MODS @ 220RWKW

1989 r32 sedan

Standard internals

Apexi FMIC

Apexi Power FC

Garrett 28RS turbo

GTR injectors

GTR fuel pump

Standard AFM

Air pod with heat shield

Spit fire coils

3 1/4 exhaust from turbo

HKS suspension

Upgraded brakes

Heavy patrol clutch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128498-rb26-v-rb25-v-rb30/
Share on other sites

I think you will strugle to make close to that with the RB20, will do it with a 25 but all you will be able to use is your FMIC & coil packs. the rest you will be able to sell. It is possible to make 250rwkw with a 20 if you squeeze it hard enough, otherwise Rb25 with about 12k worth of bolt ons and labour to fabricate & fit etc. 25 will make this power with standard internals but bolt ons are not cheap. can also make 250kw comfortably with less modification and expense.

Hi all, it has been about a year since I have played with my car and it's time to upgrade the 20.

When giving your advice please take into consideration, Iwill NOT myself be able to put a motor together, pull one out and put another one in. ALSO please look at the mods I already have and what can be utilised.

I basically want expeience on what would be a better way to upgrade and spend money takng into account logevity, power, reliability, whether it's going to be legal on the road.

Power target would be 300RWKW.

The car is a daily drive and has some track days here and there

Prices, power and experiece would be prefered.

Cheers

CURRENT MODS @ 220RWKW

1989 r32 sedan

Standard internals

Apexi FMIC

Apexi Power FC

Garrett 28RS turbo

GTR injectors

GTR fuel pump

Standard AFM

Air pod with heat shield

Spit fire coils

3 1/4 exhaust from turbo

HKS suspension

Upgraded brakes

Heavy patrol clutch

Since you are not going to do this upgrade yourself, what we tell you (parts and prices) is pretty useless. You need to find a workshop and ask them.

Doing it as cheaply as possible, following is an indicator of what I would keep, modify or sell

1989 r32 sedan = keep

Standard RB20 internals = Sell, buy a complete RB25DET

Apexi FMIC = keep

Apexi Power FC = Keep

Garrett 28RS turbo = Sell, upgrade to GT30

GTR injectors = Keep

GTR fuel pump = Keep

Standard AFM = Sell, upgrade to Z32

Air pod with heat shield = Keep

Spit fire coils = Keep

3 1/4 exhaust from turbo = Keep

HKS suspension = Yuk

Upgraded brakes = Keep

Heavy patrol clutch = Keep

Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator = Buy

Take the RB20DET inlet manifold off and swap it onto the RB25DET so you can use the GTR injectors. If you haven’t already done it, run a dedicated wiring harness (from the battery) and relay to the fuel pump, that will give it 13.8 volts which will be enough for 300 rwkw. The Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator will enable you to stretch the injectors to 300 rwkw by increasing the fuel pressure from 36-38 psi (standard) to 45 psi. I would use new rubber fuel hoses and clamps, 1989 one will be well past it. Ditto the vacuum lines, all of them.

Depending on the current condition of the RB20DET gearbox and how you treat it, it might last a while, but I would budget on upgrading to an RB25DET gearbox fairly soon.

My guess on prices;

RB25DET $2,500

GT30 turbo $2,600

RB25DET gearbox $1,500

Install, wiring changes and tuning labour $3,000 (I added $500 for contingency because shit happens)

Nimso adjustable fuel pressure regulator $150 (Nengun)

Z32 AFM $300

Total = $10,050

My suggestion, sell the R32GTST and buy an R33GTST, it will be cheaper.

:) cheers :)

If you want 300rwkws, and thats more important then the car you are driving, then i woudl consider selling the R32 and buying a neat R33.

There are a few good examples with the mods and power already which are for sale. Ask Wayne to see what he thinks of INASNTs cxar. Im nto sure hwat he is askign but its a nice and grunty R33.

If you want 300rwkws, and thats more important then the car you are driving, then i woudl consider selling the R32 and buying a neat R33.

There are a few good examples with the mods and power already which are for sale. Ask Wayne to see what he thinks of INASNTs cxar. Im nto sure hwat he is askign but its a nice and grunty R33.

Here here... Sounds like a plan.. Slightly newer whale, better gearbox and motor to start off with without rego hassles.

The only downside you lack the little R32 hard edge race car feel. All depends what you want out of your car and what you want to use it for.

Am definatly going to keep the r32. Just rather than replacing with another rb20 am thinking of upgrading and getting some more power also. It will be mainly a street car with some track work every now again.

Is RB30 illegal for street or going to be too expensive, was thinking lots would have suggested it.

Cheers

single turbo RB30(25)DET only requires normal road worthy and emmissions test for legal rego (according to SA statment of requirments) but RB30(26)DETT would require bigger brakes, weight to power ratio test, etc. given that both engines look stockish with all the extra bits that do nothing but look like they make it economical.

A single turbo three liter twin cam is considered to be the same as a VL turbo and R32 gts-t has better brakes than a VL so it passes with little testing, but a twin turbo is considered to be more like a GTR so more requirments to get legal.

Edited by =premo=
Am definatly going to keep the r32. Just rather than replacing with another rb20 am thinking of upgrading and getting some more power also. It will be mainly a street car with some track work every now again.

Is RB30 illegal for street or going to be too expensive, was thinking lots would have suggested it.

Cheers

ok quincy,

If your heart is set on the r32 (i like the little gts 32 aswell) and alot of the other options are really adding up to big dollars maybe you might concider

stay with the rb20

buy gtr crank and rods $600 (bolt in fit)

Tomei forged rb24 pistons (i have heard 4g63 can be used but i have not confirmed this)$1500

Tomei cams 260 deg 8.8mm lash with cam wheels $1100

With the increased capacity and performance of the cams i think you could easily upgrade your turbo with any increases in lag (if tune right), just don't aim to big the turbo that seems to be around your size required and has produced 400rwhp on 2.4litre engine is the gt3071r $1695 you'll need external gate $400

you'll need gaskets, bearing etc (all the gear for full rebuild) ~$1000

but the bonus is at the end of the day you'll have a brand new motor 2.4 litres that doesn't require any alterations to fit like your other options and has forged internals great torque(has longer stroke than rb25) for your track work. The risk you run of buying a second upgrade motor is the condition is unknown and the life exspectance of it is unkown and eve.

Alot of the things sydneykid mentioned i would do regardless of the package you go for ie the direct electrical feed to fuel pump, z32 afm and fuel regulator etc

end of the day i think this would be your cheaper option and you'll have brand new motor that can really take more punishment than a std second replacement. I hope i may have just given you another option to consider for your upgrade.

pete

ps its just another option

single turbo RB30(25)DET only requires normal road worthy and emmissions test for legal rego (according to SA statment of requirments) but RB30(26)DETT would require bigger brakes, weight to power ratio test, etc. given that both engines look stockish with all the extra bits that do nothing but look like they make it economical

A single turbo three liter twin cam is considered to be the same as a VL turbo and R32 gts-t has better brakes than a VL so it passes, but a twin turbo is considered to be more like a GTR so more requirments to get legal.

Which is roughly what I too was told by regency.

There's no real drama, but the problem is getting the emmissions test, it must also be run on the std ecu, which it does and can... Sure the stock ecu fuel cuts on boost but they don't test on boost so there's no problem there. :P

Hi, just wondering, if you were to add a complete RB25DE from an R32 to this scenario, what could you do to mix and match and produce a nice package?

Would you be able to create a nice RB25DET from the 2 engines combined considering that the Power FC, injectors and other bits are straight fit onto RB25DE from an R32.

QUOTE

Take the RB20DET inlet manifold off and swap it onto the RB25DET so you can use the GTR injectors.

Aren't rb20det and rb25det inlet manifolds a different bolt pattern?

I know rb20det and r32 rb25de are the same but I've been told an rb25det manifold won't bolt up to either.

quincy777

I had to make exactly the same decision as you.

My r32 had equivalent mods to your car but I wanted more.

I had planned to go the rb30/25det route but an r32 rb25de accidently came into my possession when I bought a halfcut for panels.

I realised I didn't need 300rwkw atm and decided to keep my 2530 and use it on the rb25 rebuilt with forgies and rb26 crank and rods.

I can always get a bigger turbo later if I feel the need.

Booster - did you rebuild the RB25de from R32?

I was also thinking of going RB25/30 but want to keep my Auto box, which means I'll also have to keep my 7500 RPM rev limit.

So now I'm thinking what can be done with the current RB20 setup together with a R32 RB25de I have sitting in the garage.

I'd be happy with reliable 220-230 rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • H2 (for cars) will never happen. It's not reasonable for any number of reasons. It's also not reasonable for almost all of the industrial uses that the fanbois say that it will be used for, again for a large number of reasons. There are some cases where it will be good. But, even those will be massively hampered by the economics. The only way that H2 can be economic is if we somehow manage to get from where we are to the other side of the economic-valley-of-death in which no-one can operate. You need there to be sufficient renewable generated electricity to be available so that it is effectively free. Once you are there, you can do whatever the hell you want and hang the efficiency. But until you get there, the ever diminishing value of electricity makes it harder and harder to encourage businesses to build the new generation capacity, and they will simply stop investing in generation projects. (I kinda think there needs to be just government money spent on building the required capacity in a non-commercial way, similar to how the first fossil fueled grids were built, as national-government owned utilities. And probably some nuclear in there to start. But this all should have started 10-15 years ago to avoid the chasm of death that we face right now). Synth fuels will be much more likely, but will only occur is there is at least some renewable H2 production, because you need H2 to do it. And you need stacks of free (or at least extraordinarily cheap) energy because assembling molecules back into fuels is exactly the opposite process to burning the fuel, and the reason we burn fuels is because there is so much energy squeezed into each molecule. So you're somewhat subject to the same economic valley of death problem as above anyway. That is unless people are willing to pay the current equivalent of $5 or $6 per litre of petrol-ish liquid fuels. Can you imagine it? The squealing at $2 now is bad enough.
    • This is so cool. Get a dashcam that records audio and hopefully you'll catch it.  Maybe there's a brand or some kind of markings on the back ? Are the pics hand drawn? I love it so much.
    • Hahaha yep, point(s) taken. I just like seeing different things and an EV in an R32 is pretty different. I'm not on the EV band wagon, I'm waiting for synthetic fuels or hydrogen personally. 
    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
×
×
  • Create New...