Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hell you guy's, talkin bout cheap parts.

I went to nissan today and paid $83.00 for the full set, and both operators commented they were the cheapest "disc brake hardware set" they have for nissan's.

Who's getting taken for a ride here, i quoted CRZY32's part no's which were correct, i pay $83 he gets quoted $72. Hmm, sure is dear to live in Sydney.

Edited by rambunctious1
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi, really sorry for digging up this thread, but I wanted to ask if those anti-squeal shims are worth having?

I got quoted $146.87 + gst for the factory hardware kit

(Part Code: 41080K

Part Number: 41080-21U25 "HARDWARE KIT - FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD”)

that MerlinTheHapyPig posted.

So those of you that have these shims on your skyline would you say there worth it? Do they really make that extra difference?

I’ve had new slotted rotors and pads fitted on my R33 GTS25t and the brakes STILL squeal :O

Will these 146.87 + gst shims save my ears and the peoples ears down the road and the birds that fly away when they here me braking?

Edited by daxter
Someone look up prices/part numbers for a set of front shims for R33 GTR Brembos for me :O

Can have mine Andrew when I pull them down soon. I never use them. Occasionally you need to give pads a decent heat cycle and use the right stuff on the back, like moly grease, very thin.

Endless are just crap and will destroy your rotors, but you'll have plenty of pad left.

  • 2 weeks later...
Ie had new slotted rotors and pads fitted on my R33 GTS25t and the brakes STILL squeal :D

Will these 146.87 + gst shims save my ears and the peoples ears down the road and the birds that fly away when they here me braking?

Guys i have the same problem allthought i do have the antisqueel shims n , i've put em on with ainti squeel spray as well, new discs, new bads Bendix ultimate, and the rears are squeeling like hell, could it be the caliber, do i have to have that split in the middle of the brake bads, cause bendix dnt have it, help please..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...