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Ok I found the article...

here's the paragraph, quoted word for word

"The automatic version actually has a very good four-speed electronically controlled transmission too, but it would be a shame to lose the fun of that brilliant five speeder. The automatic versions made only 180kw and 274Nm of torque (compared to 184 and 294Nm for the manual), which combined with an extra 20kg kerb mass makes them substantially slower." - Ben Ellis (High Performance Imports)

I'm also interested in this because I have an auto 4-door. I was planning to sell, but I'll lose money and I love the car.

So basically for a tranny swap you'd need

RB25 gearbox

Pedal Box

Interior stuff (gearstick and plastic cover thing)

And labour would inlude fitting and recalibrating the speedo.

Right???

I wouldnt take HPI as gospel as Ive read from time to time when they compare cars the power torque figures and quarter mile times vary from different issues. Iwas under the impression series 1 & series 2 R33's made the same power at the flywheel (manual) it was just the series 2 gave back a better power at the wheels result due to them being younger. This is in stock form of course.

For example:

In issue 23 they did the comparison of a 1994 4 door 33 automatic vs a AU XR8 and the power & torque figures were 185kw & 295nm They claimed the 33 automatic did the quarter mile in 14.9 secs ....But

In issue 48 they compared a 1995 R33 gtst manual vs a 1993 300zx and it they quoted a power and torque figure of 187kw & 295nm. They claimed this 33 manual did the quarter mile in 15.2 secs

Then there is your quote Dezz from im guessing an earlier issue of HPI so whats accurate??

Chris

Edited by alphanumeric

i done a manual conversion at the begining of the year, you will need

clutch/brake peddles

master and slave clutch clyinders

clutch plus spigot and flywheel

tailshaft

gearbox

shifter

manual instrument cluster

manual spinny thingy at end of speedo cable to go into manual gearbox

centre consol where gear stick comes out of

inner and outer gearstick boots.

got the safc2 tuned to the manual

started with 215rwhp, went to 256rwhp with gearbox and fmic only.

thinkn about changing the diff soon too as speedo is a little bit out and 1st revs out a little to quick

i think thats about all

cost me just over $4700 to get a workshop to do the work.

not a cheap project anymore due to lack of part in australia.

hope this helps

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks everyone for the input!

This topic is being very information!

I got a question in regards to the diff ratio:

so with a 4.3:1 diff in the auto... and after converting the box to manual and left the diff untouch will mean that it should thoretically accelerate faster than the Std manual R33,.... is that right?

  • 2 weeks later...
Thanks everyone for the input!

This topic is being very information!

I got a question in regards to the diff ratio:

so with a 4.3:1 diff in the auto... and after converting the box to manual and left the diff untouch will mean that it should thoretically accelerate faster than the Std manual R33,.... is that right?

I'd like to know too,

I'm doing the same conversion with my 4dr trying to decide whether to buy a new diff to get the manual gear ratio.

Also does anyone know if the auto diff is a 1/2 by 1/2 way? Is it worth converting to a 1 and a 1/2 way?

Can you buy the internals or do you have to buy a whole new diff?

i also would like to know about the diff, do i need to change the diff if i convert from auto to manual?

does the car drive the same as any other manual r33(Better or worse) or is there any problems with the conversion that effects the car)

thanks to any1 that can help :huh:

had the conversion for a little while now. have had no problems as such. need to get the clutch ajusted as operating at top of peddle and needs to be moved down (getting done next week). miss the auto sometimes but i wouldnt go back. as i said a couple of posts back, the engine revs out a bit quicker than i would like, but this could be a good thing. the speedo is very slightly out (when doing 60 on the speedo im actually doing 58), this will multiply when going faster obviously). also, i would recommend getting it licenced as a manual, cost about 35 bux to go over the pits. they only look at the conversion but will need to write down size of your wheels so put stockies on if they are over 7" wide. hope this helps

  • 2 weeks later...

Get them to increase your freeplay on your clutch.

Revving quicker is a good thing, gives you ability to change gears quicker as the revs drop faster.

So I should do a manual licensing thing? What benefits come from this? Is this done by the RTA?

  • 2 months later...

Digging up an old thread, but i have had the conversion done

everything is going great,

only thing i have been querying, is the auto diff is still in the car

i have noticed, and found out from this thread, because of the different gear ratios,

that my car is sitting on 2800rpm on 100 and is f@#kin annoyin me.

so i will be after a manual diff, or jsut go aftermarket and get a 1.5way

is this a good option?

im wantin to drift my car, so would best option just to go straight for a 1.5way. Im still using the car for the weekend.

Does anyone know the cost involved in gettin a new diff put in, and how long it takes.

Thanks

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