Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There you go, EXACTLY what happened to mine, after 90,000kms I don't blame it.

My nuts were finger-tight too, but i DID have at least 4!!

Cam, we didnt need to undo the oil/water supply lines to get the gasket off hey :D We just loosened the front pipe and used goon-strength to pull it "off" the four studs holding it onto the manifold.

In my endevours I rounded off 2 heatshield nuts (nowhere to mount my EGO sensor bracket now, so it's cable-tied up!) and 2 Manifold bolts. ugh!

'Spose you couldn't have done any worse!

Stric - hmm - me thinking I'll be checking mine - or getting them checked when the dump pipe goes on..

As for the goon like strength - can supply that easily enough (me not smart, can lift heavy stuff but! :D ) - though was hesistant to do that because the turbo seemed to be constrained in it's moment by the hard piped oil line underneath. In other words, I'd rather romove it than chance breaking - Zanda would never let me hear the end of it.. :)

got an update on the novice backyard mechanics for anyone who's interested...

spent the weekend grunting and groaning, trying to remove the coolant lines and the two bolts holding the front pipe to the cat. all of them were fu:) ) we were able to undo the coolant lines and remove the oil lines from the turbo. with all of these lines off and the manifold bolts off - the only thing left holding the turbo in place was the cat/front pipe bolts... no problem.. yea right!

those mothers were waaaay rusted! i recommend anyone who is deciding to do this carry a BIG can of wd40 and a BIG spanner - possibly even a hammer! after much bashing, got one bolt loose and out and the other one snapped cause the thread was so rusted...

while the lot is out - it was decided that a dump pipe should be added before putting everything back...

so - things left to do..

drill out bolt in cat

fix heat wrap around air con lines (damaged when pulling turbo out)

re-attach oil/coolant lines to turbo

replace turbo/manifold gasket (the original job!)

replace all piping

check oil/coolant levels and top up accordingly

give offerings to local god.. start engine.. :P

btw,

thanks to adam32, who offerred his saturday evening input.

as it turned out, the fiasco was justified. Although I speak for myself, I felt much better about spending all that time rolling around on the ground once the piece of rogue gasket turned out to be one inch long.

blade chewage averted.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...