Automatic Gearbox Service

[SECURITY]

I figured i'd take some pics while i was doing this and decided to turn it into a D.I.Y.

- drive your car up some ramps or jack it up and put some stands underneath it. DO THIS SOMEWHERE WHERE IT IS O.K. TO MAKE A MESS

- find a decent sized container, it needs to be at least 5L and put it under your drain plug, from memory the bolt is 17mm.

i keep spare oil containers around, and ive got one specifically that i've cut the sides off to dump oil into, then use that to pour oil into another oil container.

- once all the oil has drained, you can start loosening the 10mm bolts holding the gearbox sump in, there are a few in tricky positions so you're best bet is to use a 1/4" set. when the sump is about to come off, watch out for more oil.

i didnt bother taking pics up till this stage as its all pretty self explanitory.

- once the sump comes off you'll be faced with something that looks like this:

this part is the filter, it has 4 long 10mm bolts holding it in, then its a matter of pulling it straight out.

- now that you've got the sump and the filter out, take them somewhere you can clean them. i suggest using fuel or degreaser, just make sure you wash it all off thoroughly before you put your gearbox back together.

- the sump has a little magnet on it, its normal to have a small build up of very fine metal on it, but look out for any larger than normal sized bits, if you do find any larger than normal pieces i'd definatley have a transmission specialist look at it as its not a good sign in regards to the condition of your gearbox.

pic of my sump and magnet cleaned:

- just before you put your filter on, check that all of the looms are connected properly (you dont really have to do it, but might as well while its all off).

- put everything back on in the reverse order. putting the sump on will be a bit tricky though, i suggest holding up the sump with one hand and putting in 2 bolts on opposite ends of the sump in, then going on from there.

when putting on an engine sump, we usually start doing up the bolts from the middle then work out way out so the sump seals properly. i suggest doing the same with the transmission sump, its probably not essential, but its good practice.

this is an order you could use, it doesnt matter which order you go in from 11 onwards, its the first 10 that are important (yes, im a perfectionist).

make sure your drain plug is tightly on.

- now its time to fill your auto box up. i used canstrol dextron III. i suggest filling it up with 3-3.5L then running the car and driving it off the ramps onto a flat, level surface then wait for the oil to circulate for a little bit. leave the car on and put it in the Park position, make sure the hand brake is up while checking your levels.

take the dipstick out, wipe it with a clean rag, then check your level.

if the engine is cold, it should be within the "COLD" marks of the dipstick. If the car was driven and is fully warmed up, the level should be at the upper end of the "HOT" mark. wait till the car is warmed up and check the levels then.

top it up if it needs it or drain a bit if you've over filled it.

NEVER OVER-FILL YOUR AUTO GEARBOX. keep it on, or just under maximum at all times. over filling could cause problems as the gearbox runs off pressures to change gears etc.

the last step is to bleed your system. take it for a spin, let it go through all gears and you're done

cheers.

[rsx84]

quick question where is the best place to re-fill the box??

great write up by the way...

[MANWHORE]

I agree with you about the mess mate. When doing this, it's really hard to get a drain pan big enough. We always drop a little bit when we do it.

[MANWHORE]

may I just add, that once you go for the drive, the level might have dropped again depending on whehter you've put it through the gears when you're stationary, so you might have to check it and top it up slightly.

[MZTRBO]

Great write up, I was about to go to get it serviced at a workshop, but looks simple as so I will attempt myself...

As previously mentioned, where is the best place to fill it up..is it the spout where the dipstick is????

Cheers

[turboedsloth]

the dipstick sits in a tube. fill it up through there and theres markings on the dipstick to

[MZTRBO]

Also, what type of element is the filter...paper, metal???

I noticed you said just clean the filter...Im only saying this as from previous threads on MV Automatics they say he supplies service kits to replace filters etc so is it a replaceable item or worth replacing, Id rather not spend the money but if it will make the gbox last a little longer then I will get it..

IM about to get the r33 tuned and it will probaly put out around 200rwkw...I dont want the gbox to fail.

Also does anyone know where to get an transmission cooler at a good price or second hand...

Cheers

[rsx84]

  MZTRBO said:

Also does anyone know where to get an transmission cooler at a good price or second hand...

Cheers

depending on what a good price for you is, you can get good coolers from supercheap for around 80-90, i'm just using the orignal one in my r31, the ones at supercheap are larger and thicker though, better for cooling i'd say....

i don't know how effective mine is what with the rate of flow, i made the mistake of poping off one of the cooler hoses when the car was running and it shot fluid well over 2m away in a stream...

Edited April 11, 2007 by rsx84

[MZTRBO]

  rsx84 said:

depending on what a good price for you is, you can get good coolers from supercheap for around 80-90, i'm just using the orignal one in my r31, the ones at supercheap are larger and thicker though, better for cooling i'd say....

i don't know how effective mine is what with the rate of flow, i made the mistake of poping off one of the cooler hoses when the car was running and it shot fluid well over 2m away in a stream...

I was looking at the davies craig ones for $120-130 i think...I will look at the supercheap ones...

Hey whats the go with having different specification for these tranny coolers depending on engine capacity...eg. theres ones for 2l and under...I thought cooling is cooling, get a small one wont cool as well get a big it will cool better. simple logic I guess.

Cheers Daniel

[MacGuyver]

Awesome write up and pics, I'll be doing this myself shortly so this is a massive help.

[rsx84]

  MZTRBO said:

I was looking at the davies craig ones for $120-130 i think...I will look at the supercheap ones...

Hey whats the go with having different specification for these tranny coolers depending on engine capacity...eg. theres ones for 2l and under...I thought cooling is cooling, get a small one wont cool as well get a big it will cool better. simple logic I guess.

Cheers Daniel

i'd say it would work on the same principle as intercoolers, the larger the core the better the cooling?

i'm thinking along the lines of adding a second transmission cooler from a r31 to mine...

[MZTRBO]

Yhe i heard volvo ones are big and cheap from the wreckers, though I want the piping to suit my aplication and not fuss around with getting correct lenght and size lines.

DAniel

[rsx84]

  MZTRBO said:

Yhe i heard volvo ones are big and cheap from the wreckers, though I want the piping to suit my aplication and not fuss around with getting correct lenght and size lines.

DAniel

unless you want braided lines its just pressure hose that used from factory....

[MZTRBO]

  rsx84 said:

unless you want braided lines its just pressure hose that used from factory....

What about the fittings to the cooler? Are these metle screw on things or a radiator style clamp thing.

Cheeers Daniel

[rsx84]

  MZTRBO said:

What about the fittings to the cooler? Are these metle screw on things or a radiator style clamp thing.

Cheeers Daniel

i've only ever seen them with the "radiator style" connections, i think you'll find the other type is more for engine oil coolers

this is a link to ebay, gives you an idea on what i mean..... maybe even an option for you

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISS...1QQcmdZViewItem

[MZTRBO]

Thanx for that..

[XRAIDER]

Hi there,

This looks like an awsome DIY tute, just wondering if there is a gasket on the sump that should be replaced if so how much am i looking at from nissan or repco if theyd have em.

Also I kind of know what i'm doing but my work mates think i'm stupid if i do it myself, what can i possibly stuff up if i'm only taking the sump and filter off?

Cheers

[SECURITY]

sorry for the late replies guys. i almost forgot about this thread.

its an easy DIY so there isnt much you can stuff up.

  rsx84 said:

quick question where is the best place to re-fill the box??

great write up by the way...

as mentioned, use the pipe for the dipstick with a funnel on it. make sure you're always checking your levels though.

  MZTRBO said:

Also, what type of element is the filter...paper, metal???

I noticed you said just clean the filter...Im only saying this as from previous threads on MV Automatics they say he supplies service kits to replace filters etc so is it a replaceable item or worth replacing, Id rather not spend the money but if it will make the gbox last a little longer then I will get it..

IM about to get the r33 tuned and it will probaly put out around 200rwkw...I dont want the gbox to fail.

Also does anyone know where to get an transmission cooler at a good price or second hand...

Cheers

the element is a fine steel mesh so its cleanable, you dont have to replace it unless the mesh is stuffed.

there was a group buy going around on the davies craig cooler kits. i got one of them and they seem fine, although i will be running a larger core very soon since im going to be getting out onto the track.

  MZTRBO said:

Yhe i heard volvo ones are big and cheap from the wreckers, though I want the piping to suit my aplication and not fuss around with getting correct lenght and size lines.

DAniel

what i suggest to do is get any kind of core you like (dont overkill). get some transmission cooler hose from any parts dealer and get a couple of hose clamps and fit them on that way. the oil pressure in the boxes will see figures of up to 60psi from memory so its important you get this type of hose.

  XRAIDER said:

Hi there,

This looks like an awsome DIY tute, just wondering if there is a gasket on the sump that should be replaced if so how much am i looking at from nissan or repco if theyd have em.

Also I kind of know what i'm doing but my work mates think i'm stupid if i do it myself, what can i possibly stuff up if i'm only taking the sump and filter off?

Cheers

when i took my sump off i noticed that there wasnt any kind of gasket on there and i didnt have any leaks. but when putting it back together i used some ultra black (high temp, oil resistant) gasket maker and its working fine.

[XRAIDER]

  SECUR1TY said:

sorry for the late replies guys. i almost forgot about this thread.

its an easy DIY so there isnt much you can stuff up.

as mentioned, use the pipe for the dipstick with a funnel on it. make sure you're always checking your levels though.

the element is a fine steel mesh so its cleanable, you dont have to replace it unless the mesh is stuffed.

there was a group buy going around on the davies craig cooler kits. i got one of them and they seem fine, although i will be running a larger core very soon since im going to be getting out onto the track.

what i suggest to do is get any kind of core you like (dont overkill). get some transmission cooler hose from any parts dealer and get a couple of hose clamps and fit them on that way. the oil pressure in the boxes will see figures of up to 60psi from memory so its important you get this type of hose.

when i took my sump off i noticed that there wasnt any kind of gasket on there and i didnt have any leaks. but when putting it back together i used some ultra black (high temp, oil resistant) gasket maker and its working fine.

Thanks Mate!

Edited April 19, 2007 by XRAIDER