Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just chucked in my Bilstein height adjustable shocks and super low King springs.

All in all, pretty easy job!

Here is a pic of how it sits now. I have been waiting ages to do this and I love it!!

It is rubbing in the front so I will have a look at that today. It goes in for bodywork tomorrow so I will have any guard rolling done then.

I still have to install my other suspension gear (ajd front and rear swaybars, adj camber kits, adj caster kit and rear subframe alignment kit) and get an alignment.

Has anyone had experence with what it might be rubbing on? I am not sure that it is that guard... Might be the arm and could have to get some 5mm spacers for the front. I can't even get my little finger in between the rear tyre and the guard so that will need rolling/trimming.

Anyway, here it is. Any comments welcome.

P.S. Might be an idea to have a sticky updates section so people don't have to create a new topic for somethin like this...

loweredqd9.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129009-lowered-my-car/
Share on other sites

Cheers guys!!

I had a look today and it is rubbing on the screws on the guard that holds the plastic inner guard on. It is also rubbing when turning on the inner guard so will have to sort it out.

I will post an update when I get the car back from the bodyshop. I am getting my front bar, bonnet, front guard, rear bar, boot lid and tail lights painted and having my boot shaved, front guards rolled and rear guards trimmed...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129009-lowered-my-car/#findComment-2386821
Share on other sites

yea wheels are wheels to me. my best mate had dished volk rims with a $4500 price tag but they dont look much better than a cheap set. just what i think anyways. but yea car looks sweet.

its the weight of the 2 piece wheels and the build quality, sit them next to a set of lenso copys and you would just pay the extra!.....trust me I did! and they look sweet as!.....go the VOLKS! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129009-lowered-my-car/#findComment-2391043
Share on other sites

its the weight of the 2 piece wheels and the build quality, sit them next to a set of lenso copys and you would just pay the extra!.....trust me I did! and they look sweet as!.....go the VOLKS! :)

I can see your point and it is valid but at the end of the day you cant see the wheels when your driving and they dont make the car go any better.

Its purely cosmetic so i have never been a fan of spending big on wheels for my cars, but thats just me and my 2 cents.

Dont get me wrong they do cap off a car (like Todd's) but i can think of better things to spend money on first.

Todd the car looks great cobber, must make a big difference with the handling now!!!

What have you got planned now for the beast seeing as your always doing something to it :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129009-lowered-my-car/#findComment-2391525
Share on other sites

Thanks B.

Well, it is in the bodyworks at the moment like I said so it will be looking spot on when it comes out!

I now have GTR injectors and the resistor pack and a Z32 AFM so I will be looking at getting a retune.

I am tossing up whether to get Dr Drift to do it again or to go aftermarket. I am about to investigate SAFC's... Can anyone tell me if I can add the new injectors and AFM and tune it up with that or would I need to go the PFC?

I am not looking at taking it to Melb to get a tune because it is going to cost too much and I may aswel spend the cash buying something I can have tuned down here! I am thinking about getting Sam to send me another chip with a map to suit the injectors and AFM and then get the A/F ratios checked on a dyno down here. If nessecary, I could always send the ratios up to him and he can adjust it best he can...

Any help or suggestions on this would be great.

I rekon there will be a little dry period in 4 weeks... I am going to be a dad :devil:

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129009-lowered-my-car/#findComment-2391966
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...