My Dyno Sheet

[DRFT 14]

I finally got the chance to have my car on the dyno yesterday when a local tuner held an 'open dyno day'. $60 for a A/R check and power test run.

Car is an S14 Silvia with a NEO RB25DET (and R33 Gearbox).

Masterpower T3/TS04 sitting on a custom tuned leangth manifold

LinkPlus Computer

3inch turbo back exhaust

600x300x100 IC and 2 1/2inch piping

Walbro Fuel Pump

etc, etc

The LinkPlus has an R33 base map, as I never managed to get it tuned properly because of a 'missfire' issue at high boost (Long story, had my electrician go over his wiring several times, did spark plug gaps, looked at fuel etc. Its never been solved).

First run (blue), was on run on 10psi. Second run (red), was run on 8psi.

As you can see, the dyno run was very dissapointing. Its pretty lazy to come on boost, and not very linear at all. Power drops from 148kw to 130kw at its worst point before rising back up to a dissapointing peak power of 170kw (doesnt mean much considering my midrange is rubbish).

Im pretty new to this, and my abiity to fully analyse dyno sheets is limited, so can you guys tell me your opinions on it?

A stock standard MR2 (only mod being exhaust) ran after me and made a peak power reading of 169rwkw. He bought his car for $9000. Makes me wonder why the hell I spent $12000 on my engine setup alone, only to run 170rwkw.

[fat200sx]

Your turbo is letting down your setup, get a garret gt30 or similar car will be make more power plus be more responsive...

[DRFT 14]

Also, the tuner said he could improve that figure to around 190rwkw with a dyno session. I thought that number was pretty low? Ive taken my car to another dyno tuner (this is where my boost probelm was identified and the tune had to be cancelled), he said he could tune it to approx. 250rwkw with a FPR. Whats the deal here? Looking at my setup and the current dyno sheet, is 190rwkw really the most that my setup can muster?

[WHYW.8]

i'd say to piss the link computer off and go with a microtech or autronic.

[mass_iv]

hey mate, sounds bout right... u need to increase the fuel flow.... if ur using standard injectors and FPR, then there will be a limit to ur power output... as for the turbo, i also think it is letting down ur setup, try a garrett GT30R, works wonders on my car, 260rwkw is easily achieved with more depending on ur engine setup...

[paulr33]

im making more average power everywhere on the standard turbo

[khunjeng]

looks a bit low considering ur setup. I had about the same with 7psi, stock turbo an emanage and a zorst and as Paulr33, I made more power all over the place with about the same max kws...although I never trust the dyno sheet much only use it for a comparision of my own runs/mods.

[RRob]

I pushed my old motor with a master power to 350rwhp on 13psi with stock ecu setup. Loose the Link get a standard loom on there with a pfc.

[Adriano]

I dont think an mr2 with an exhaust would make 169rwkw in shoot4, as they make 112rwkw standard and a cat back only bumps them up to 120[

[180bfj20det]

The link ECU is far from your problem. Get someone who knows how to tune it and youll be away. Ben Diggles runs a 9.18s quarter with an FJ20 and a link ECU. The car is not a typical drag car. Ie almost full weight, is street registerable (but isnt because he choses not too)....meh, the point here is that he uses Link and it controls his engine beautifully and considering it is producing 600rwhp, this ecu would have to be good because at the power level, control needs to be perfect remembering that this power is simply from a 2L 4 pot engine.

First of, if you can, post an ingnition map. Itll be interesting to see what it looks like.

Secondly, as someone mentioned before, get some attention to those air fuel ratios. They should be 12.5 max on that boost. Its best to be on 12 if you want ot be safe. This will also see more power.

So get a tune is really the answer. Get the ign and fuel maps adjusted and you should get to the answer of your problem faster.

Those humps look like a valvespring problem. Are you sure the engine is a turbo variant? Looks like they are staying open at higher rpm and boost. Same problem I have!!!!

I wish I could help more but there are experts on this forum who will help you like cubes and sydney kid who helped me get to my problem which was similar to yours....weak valve springs.

[UWISSH!]

thats abit low considering wot u got dun. I got my 33 tuned last week wif my pfc and made 223kwatw on 15 psi and only have prety basic mods. with out pfc n only 11psi it still made 199.8

[DRFT 14]

Cheers for your contributions guys. I find it pretty unlikely that the LinkPlus is my problem. As they say, a computer is only as good as the tuner, and there are cars here in NZ that run massive hp numbers on all kinds of applications with Link. It should do the job fine.

As far as the turbo goes, im pretty short of cash at the moment, so buying a GT series turbo for a couple of grand is out of the question for me. Id really like to stick with the turbo and see it producing some decent numbers.

As far as whether or not my motor is a genuine DET motor, im pretty certain that it is. Done approx. 80000kms and looked to be in mint condition.

Im really stumped here guys. I agree with some of your comments about having less power than a standard engine. A 100% standard NEO 25t would easily produce more power than what im making at the moment. My best time at the 1/4 mile was 14.9 with this setup. A huge dissapointment considering I ran a 14.1 with the standard RB20DET I had in my S14 before this setup.

Also, I dont have any Ignition map printouts unfortunately 180bfj20det.

So what's the answer here guys. Do you really think that turbo is so bad that its causing the sub-standard performance that im getting now? I find this a little unlikely, because as 'RR 84 WA' mentioned, alot of people have made good power with Master Power turbos.

I might just have to take it back to the tuner and get it tuned as it is, even though his quoted power output of approx 190rwkw will still be a huge dissapointment to me. I might aswell have stuck with my RB20DET

[khunjeng]

i wouldn't be giving up. there is no way u should be left with a 15s car (assuming u can drive it) with the mods u have. If ur not getting the results u think are right, take it to another tuner for a different opinion.

[rb26s13]

you got aftermarket injectors in that thing or stock?

[BHDave]

The miss fire issue will almost certainly come down to your choice of coils. Are the ones you are running compatible with the ecu? What does the manufacturer recommend for use on an rb25?

The turbo isn't your problem. It does seem to come on late which may be a combination of a large exhaust housing and a very conservative base tune. The turbo you are running will not be as good as a similar sized unit with a gt30 front wheel but it is still capable of high 200s once you do cams and injectors and get a bigger fuel pump.

[DRFT 14]

Injectors are standard. Ive got a Sard FPR sitting in my room which im going to install. Yes I know it wont help much, but they'l have to do for now as I dont have the spare cash to spend on $1000 NEO a/m injectors.

Ive had some custom ignition leads made up to relocate the coilpack away from the motor and onto the firewall. Il get them inslalled asap. The are Eagle 8mm leads.

Oh and the exhaust housing is .63. Not overly large for an RB25 i presume..

Edited August 6, 2006 by DRFT 14

[r33_racer]

.63 is fine...infact that should bring boost on nice and quickly.

[Let Me Drive]

i would say its just the tune cos i have the link and it run great and i have about 230rwkw and with your set up i would expect the same atleast.

just try a different tuner