Jump to content
SAU Community

Leaking Coolant Behind Heater Box

Devils_Advocate21

By Devils_Advocate21,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
Posted

Need help on this issue cant seem to find if it has been done bought up or anything using the search, so hear we go n e way, leaking coolant behind heater box need to know how others have fixed this problem and how long does it take, only started 2 days ago and noticed today, carpets all wet which is pretty shit, if someone can help me asap and if a DIY on how to fix this problem, would be great and handy

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129032-leaking-coolant-behind-heater-box/
Share on other sites
Devils_Advocate21 Mentor

Devils_Advocate21

Posted
  • Author
Posted
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=32611 bugga of a job done my sons a month or so ago

Cheers mate, think ill go with the bypass trick had a look at the guide and not looking forward to pulling entire dash out, so ill bypass it tommorow, can someone confirm a couple of things for me, According to the bypassing guide, they used a inner hose of diameter @21mm, is it possible just to join the hoses with two barbs and another hose, if so what would the diameter of the barbs be, would they be the same at 21 mm, or go for 20 mm barbs to really clamp the b@sterd of the thing down

Stupid bloody heater thing, lucky not so needed up here in QLD as much as down south, also after this i need to source a wet carpet cleaning service, so they can wash the carpet or a self service carpet cleaner similar to the one at 8 mile plains carlovers but i think that one is out of service STIl|LL last time i checked it was. or on another note would it be worth while to replace the underlay/sound deading stuff with new stuff or let it dry? as far as i know ethylene glycol substances are acidic? ie. radiator fluids,

Cheers Adam

coastlife Collaborator

coastlife

Posted
Posted
Cheers mate, think ill go with the bypass trick had a look at the guide and not looking forward to pulling entire dash out, so ill bypass it tommorow, can someone confirm a couple of things for me, According to the bypassing guide, they used a inner hose of diameter @21mm, is it possible just to join the hoses with two barbs and another hose, if so what would the diameter of the barbs be, would they be the same at 21 mm, or go for 20 mm barbs to really clamp the b@sterd of the thing down

Stupid bloody heater thing, lucky not so needed up here in QLD as much as down south, also after this i need to source a wet carpet cleaning service, so they can wash the carpet or a self service carpet cleaner similar to the one at 8 mile plains carlovers but i think that one is out of service STIl|LL last time i checked it was. or on another note would it be worth while to replace the underlay/sound deading stuff with new stuff or let it dry? as far as i know ethylene glycol substances are acidic? ie. radiator fluids,

Cheers Adam

Hi just did mine .didnt do all this though. just took out the glovebox and air con part. unscrewed the plastic hoses from the core (4 screws in each) slid the core out the side. slid the new one in , put some silicone gasket round the silicon o rings and screwed the plasic hoses back on. DASH not touched. might just be that all is wrong with yours is those silicon seals either way if you can get the 300zx one its a quicker way of fitting

Evan_R33 Enthusiast

Evan_R33

Posted
Posted

when we have heater core leaks at work, they generally try and just dry the carpet first! hot air gun and a bit bit of deodouriser for example... it's alot easier than replacing the carpet especially if you have just had the pleasure of removing the dash!

i'd say dry it and see how it goes... should be sweet!

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

Mine did the same thing about a year ago, and had it bypassed. Now I have bought a replacement core to go in and will, eventually, one day, maybe this centry, pull my finger out and look at whacking it into my stagea. But I really dont want to take apart the whole dash to, so going to look at accessing it through removing the glove box and trying that angle, mainly because I have a front passenger side airbag, and dont really want that going off at all :D

Waiting for a copy of FAST so I can try to firgure out how big a job it is going to be.

Good luck with yours!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...