Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a little info to add

If your car is over heating on the track, put a higher pressure cap on your radiator (remember little steps!) When you increase the pressure on the water mixed with coolant (only works if there is water and coolant) it incresses the boiling point of the fluid.

Again only do this in little steps because you can have too much pressure then it all goes bang!!!

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

trk,

BassJunky 'used' to run a high pressure rad cap. :domokun:

BANG went his radiator or was it a top hose? (can't remember was some time ago) at a Motorkhana I believe. There's a vid floating around some where. I've never seen some one get out of their car so fast to pop the bonnet.

Thanks for the input guys, appreciate it. BUT I STILL NEED A PART NUMBER ! Anyone? Anyone?

Obviously my thermostat isn't working properly (highway temps of 68degC is a joke) so I've gotta replace it. I'm just putting one in that'll get me into a more efficient temp. zone. (most new cars run around 100deg, so I'm not concerned about the 5deg. increase)

As for big-heat, I've been "pulling the plug" on hot-lapping at 111deg.C when the temp gauge starts heading rapidly North. I've seen it hit 113 at Winton, which isn't boiling yet (thankyou coolant & pressure!) but I REALLY don't wanna kill my cylinder head finding out just where it boils, Ya'know? ! ! ! I'm hoping that a new thermostat, and cleaning out the block where it seals will also help reduce max.temps, as it'll reduce water flowing back through the block at full-open (100deg.C+ )

Well changed my thermostat a week ago & ironically, the rubber seal on the thermostat that helps the car normally get up to temperature faster was rooted. My engine has had a weak lot of coolant in it at some stage though & this may have contributed.

Warms up in about 5 - 10 minutes now & no longer have problems with rich & retard on a cold night once it's warmed up properly :domokun:. So unless u have aftermarket engine management & a highly tuned engine, I wouldn't bother with the lower temp thermostat. Just pouring money down the drain IMO.

Edited by JazzaR33
Disco,

The PowerFC provides fuel enrichment for anything below 80degree's. As the Powerfc base maps closely reflect that of the std ecu's maps I wouldn't be suprised if the std ecu's values also provided fuel enrichment below 80degree's.

I changed the correction on my PFC so from 50deg to 80deg its the same as +80

as my car sits on about 77-78deg on the freeway....so much better economy now....i just dont rev it untill its gets to more than 65deg (forgies) and even then its a real easy rev.

Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...