Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FJ20 engine (inc. inlet + exhaust manifolds) – Rebuilt by Chris Milton engineering, traveled less than 500kms - $3000

FJ20 custom high mount manifold, 44mm runners, thick steam pipe, external gate, very strong, used for less than 500km - $700

GT35/40 700hp turbo, genuine garrett, dual ball bearing internals, .63 rear, .70 comp, 4” in, used for less than 500km - $1500

Turbosmart 45mm Progate, external watsegate, used for less than 500km - $400

Haltech E6X computer, harness to fit FJ20, used for less than 500km, $1000

Haltech 3bar map sensor, used for less than 500km - (to go with haltech)

Crane cams HI6 ignition system and Fireball PS92 coil, used for less than 500kms - $500

FJ20 custom sump & pickup, to fit DR30, lifted up and higher capacity, stops the sump getting bashed - $ ??

TRUST 400x300x100mm triple core intercooler - $500

4 x RX7 550cc injectors, cleaned and tested, done less than 500kms - $300

Malpassi fuel pressure reg, less than 500kms - $200

AP Racing TRIPLE plate unsprung ‘monster’ clutch and custom flywheel to suit FJ20, brand new, never used - $2000

Cant seem to post pics at the moment, email me for pics. [email protected] (remove SPAMSUX)

Contact Phil - 0402448987

Located in Adelaide

cheers

Edited by Crimmo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129533-dr30fj20-and-mic-aftermarket-parts/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll want to have the block drilled and tapped to suit 1/2in head studs and the head for the same. How much power do you intend to make?
    • Sorry for resurrecting an oldish thread Not much has happened in the past year since the last update. The car did another 1000 miles or so and failed the MOT for the first time in October (failed on tyres which had been advised for a couple of years) In October the car got put up for sale and was removed in November due to no interest, being so close to christmas it was to be expected. The roads were dry in February so I decided to tax it early and get the new tyres fitted.   Fast forward to April, I got someone in to give the car a good clean after sitting for the winter.                                 The car got re-advertised and today (Saturday 3rd May) the car sold. The new owner is planning a GTR conversion at some point and a respray in the same pearl white. It's bitter sweet, it's a shame to have the car sit there for half the year and then only do 1000 miles. The kids are growing too quick and space in the back is getting limited. It's been a great 6.5 years of ownership
    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
×
×
  • Create New...