Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Catch Can Mounting And Roughting


Recommended Posts

Okay guys i just finished putting the hoses on the can and all i think is well so far, there are pics below for feedback, i think all is well with the installation. Apart from i have one more inlet/outlet at the bottom of the can which can just be seen in one of the pics, should i just block this inlet/outlet? Also is the position ok where it is, i know it is close to the turbo heat shields etc. :wave:

Think shouldn't cause a fire should it??

post-36645-1195002014_thumb.jpg

post-36645-1195002039_thumb.jpg

post-36645-1195002077_thumb.jpg

post-36645-1195002126_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It is a very simple mod to do, where u located, i'll do it for you if ur close by, anyhow is it cheap? depends on where u get ur CC from, what brand it is and what it is made out of. installation can be slightly tricky but i'd say it a begginers/medium mod.

Wanna fly down to Sydney and put one in? hehehe

I'd be confident enough to install one.

How much for one *average* price?

Plus i'd go for the steel hoses (don't like the whole garden hose look on some of the installs).

Okay guys i just finished putting the hoses on the can and all i think is well so far, there are pics below for feedback, i think all is well with the installation. Apart from i have one more inlet/outlet at the bottom of the can which can just be seen in one of the pics, should i just block this inlet/outlet? Also is the position ok where it is, i know it is close to the turbo heat shields etc. :rofl:

Think shouldn't cause a fire should it??

block the bottom hole, or else your motor will be receiving air that hasn't passed the AFM.. not safe...

otherwise your installation is correct, to be even more padentic you could route in the PCV line as well... so during idle your cam cover fumes will be collected by the catch can..

I'll snap up a photo of my setup on the weekend when i get my car back, its currently getting resprayed :) can't wait!

post-22311-1195010208_thumb.jpg

if you look at:

- Yellow line & T-Piece those lines are sucked into the oil catch can

- Blue line & T-Piece are sucked out of the catch can.

With this setup when the car is:

- Idling the blue line will be sucking from the catch can, which is drawing the fumes from the cam covers.

- On boost, the blue line will be closed off by the PCV, and the intake will be drawing air from the catch can which is drawing fumes from the cam covers.

100% plumb back solution..!

Iv read through the thread and im still finding it a bit confusing. Which way is the most efficient way to set up an oil catch can?

Most efficient is what I posted up, so on idle & on throttle the oil vapours in the cam cover are passed through the catch can.

In a 50% plumb back solution, only on throttle is the vapours passed through the catch can, and on idle the oil vapours will travel into the plenum via the PCV.

post-22311-1195010208_thumb.jpg

if you look at:

- Yellow line & T-Piece those lines are sucked into the oil catch can

- Blue line & T-Piece are sucked out of the catch can.

With this setup when the car is:

- Idling the blue line will be sucking from the catch can, which is drawing the fumes from the cam covers.

- On boost, the blue line will be closed off by the PCV, and the intake will be drawing air from the catch can which is drawing fumes from the cam covers.

100% plumb back solution..!

mate that is a big boost leak on a rb25 engine. everytime your plenum is pressurised, it will be pushing air thru the blue pipe back into the can and out the pipe to the intake. you need to relocate the pcv valve to after the can. ie: l+r cam covers tee-d into the inlet of can, can, outlet to intakepipe + outlet to plenum, pcv, plenum

Sorry I have a RB20DET, the PCV is actually located on the Plenum, I forgot that the RB25DET have their PCVs located on the cam cover.

Solution: get a generic PCV and run it just before the plenum.

  • 2 weeks later...

post-22311-1196204186_thumb.jpg

this is how I hooked mine up, but please note its a RB20, i.e. the PCV is actually on the plenum, RB25 guys should go buy an inline PCV from a local spares shop.

  • 1 year later...
post-22311-1196204186_thumb.jpg

this is how I hooked mine up, but please note its a RB20, i.e. the PCV is actually on the plenum, RB25 guys should go buy an inline PCV from a local spares shop.

Is there anything wrong with this setup? So I'd just have to buy ANY inline pcv valve?

Sorry, I know it's a year old post, but this is the best way (I think) I've seen a catch can setup. I'm trying not to have to run 2 catch cans, because I want to filter out the pcv valve vapors AND the valve cover vapors.

i ripped mine out and replaced it with a blanking plug. the hoses from the rocker covers run into a catch can. ive seen some pretty serious rb drag cars running similar setups so im sure its not 100% essential to have the pcv operational in that manner.

If it is, id be keen to hear about it?

  • 2 months later...
is my catch can set up correctly?

Yup, but in that setup you can block the PCV off too.

I have mine set up like yours but with the PCV blocked off.

MetalcastHigh.jpg

You cant see it because i painted the PCV bung black. Removed the valve and replaced it with an alloy bung. And of course a bung in the PCV-Intake Mani hose.

  • 10 months later...

can some one get a pic or draw one for me so that i can install a catch can on my car please..... could someone pm me the pic or drawing....

also could someone please suggest what size hose i should use and where to get it from ? im located in melbourne....

  • 4 years later...

Long story short i can run the two pipes off of the rockers to a catch can and then use a fliter on top and thats it? let it vent to the atmosphere and no other lines are needed to be run?

Can anyone recommend someone to custom make one and that knows how to baffle properly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...