Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would it be safe or advisable to just throw a new chip into the R33 ecu, without having any dyno testing done?

It's tempting to pay $300 for the chipped ecu, but dunno how confident i'd be.

has anyone tried this guy's R33 remapped chip?

Seriously consider getting yourself an in car wideband AFR meter. They can literally save your engine from destruction when you start playing around with things.

My recent experience when drag racing... sitting in the staging lanes and about to drive out onto the track i glanced at my wideband display and it was reporting 16-17:1 afr's... Hmmm.... Turned out my 040 pump was failing and wasn't flowing enough fuel.

Had I actually ran the car I would have melted pistons for sure as I was running 20lb boost that night.

I use a PLX devices M300 and it cost me $470 AUD delivered from the US. Considerably cheaper than a new motor.

I'm not sure... Could have been that for a while there I was running very high fuel pressures (85psi approx) when using stock injectors. It could have been impurities in some fuel, or just a dud pump...

The new one is fine and i've never heard of any other 040's ever failing before.

Either way, Just Jap replaced it under warranty for me inside a week.

Chris

I'm in exactly the same position as you mate.

I tell you what, i'm really busy with uni work atm. As you've said, you've still got other things to do first.

How about we both go for a tune in the chrissy holidays. like beginning of december:)

Could be a plan mate - group buy for tunes? :rolleyes:

gtst4 - I have noticed with my car - 2nd to 3rd gear changes when giving it a squirt - it kind of bogs down once in 3rd and then regains and boosts off on its way, it has me worried!

  • 2 weeks later...

sorry to bump an oldish thread guys,

but another n00b question - those of you guys who havent had a tune but have done the normal basic mods - have you guys done a track day in the untuned state?

did the car seem to go ok? any or no issues?

i bought my car with mild mods, ran it for 1month b4 it melted the ring lands on number 1 3 and 6 pistons, cause, was a rechipped ecu from japanese tunning company garage saurus, i figured when i bought the car that a tune was'nt neccesary, new motor and alot of headaches latr i got it tunned 1week afta the next motor went in, changed to a stock ecu and made 196kw, trust me get a tune even for piece of mind,

Edited by dead32

ah right - so the ecu you originaly had from japan wasnt best set up for our fuel out here or what was the go?

Im just thinking as theres a track day on friday coming up and Im keen to get out there - just dont want to damage anythng!

going by the mods you have done, i couldnt see much going wroung, the engine blew due to bad afr's from what ive reccently found out the comp didnt come on the car, it was bought from a wrecker and fitted 1 week b4 it got sold to me, im assuiming it wasnt so much the octane of ozzi fuel but more like the injectors/pump fitted to the car it was tunned on,

If you can afford to go to a track day you can afford to run the car up on the dyno and have your AFR's monitored. Its cheap insurance to know your AFR's are safe to hold it flat to redline. If your afr is anything higher than 12:1 at max rpm dont race it till its fixed.

just a quick question guys if i have the basic mods i'm i better of with a whole new ecu or will a piggy do the same thing by the way i'm not after the power just want to run the motor as effecint as i can

Define basic mods....

Your best bet is to look at the dyno sheet threads for your type of engine and look at what management people are using.

For drivability you can't beat factory management but you'd be suprised how far factory management will go with the right supporting mods.

Serious power always requires some sort of tunable ecu though. Piggyback or standalone makes no diffrence so long as you can adjust the fuel and ignition maps. And as is always agreed upon regardless of what ecu you get, make sure you get one that you can have tuned by a reputable tuner that can get you the result you want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...