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Those Who Have Tunes And Havent...


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would it be safe or advisable to just throw a new chip into the R33 ecu, without having any dyno testing done?

It's tempting to pay $300 for the chipped ecu, but dunno how confident i'd be.

has anyone tried this guy's R33 remapped chip?

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Seriously consider getting yourself an in car wideband AFR meter. They can literally save your engine from destruction when you start playing around with things.

My recent experience when drag racing... sitting in the staging lanes and about to drive out onto the track i glanced at my wideband display and it was reporting 16-17:1 afr's... Hmmm.... Turned out my 040 pump was failing and wasn't flowing enough fuel.

Had I actually ran the car I would have melted pistons for sure as I was running 20lb boost that night.

I use a PLX devices M300 and it cost me $470 AUD delivered from the US. Considerably cheaper than a new motor.

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I'm not sure... Could have been that for a while there I was running very high fuel pressures (85psi approx) when using stock injectors. It could have been impurities in some fuel, or just a dud pump...

The new one is fine and i've never heard of any other 040's ever failing before.

Either way, Just Jap replaced it under warranty for me inside a week.

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Chris

I'm in exactly the same position as you mate.

I tell you what, i'm really busy with uni work atm. As you've said, you've still got other things to do first.

How about we both go for a tune in the chrissy holidays. like beginning of december:)

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Could be a plan mate - group buy for tunes? :rolleyes:

gtst4 - I have noticed with my car - 2nd to 3rd gear changes when giving it a squirt - it kind of bogs down once in 3rd and then regains and boosts off on its way, it has me worried!

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  • 2 weeks later...

sorry to bump an oldish thread guys,

but another n00b question - those of you guys who havent had a tune but have done the normal basic mods - have you guys done a track day in the untuned state?

did the car seem to go ok? any or no issues?

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i bought my car with mild mods, ran it for 1month b4 it melted the ring lands on number 1 3 and 6 pistons, cause, was a rechipped ecu from japanese tunning company garage saurus, i figured when i bought the car that a tune was'nt neccesary, new motor and alot of headaches latr i got it tunned 1week afta the next motor went in, changed to a stock ecu and made 196kw, trust me get a tune even for piece of mind,

Edited by dead32
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ah right - so the ecu you originaly had from japan wasnt best set up for our fuel out here or what was the go?

Im just thinking as theres a track day on friday coming up and Im keen to get out there - just dont want to damage anythng!

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going by the mods you have done, i couldnt see much going wroung, the engine blew due to bad afr's from what ive reccently found out the comp didnt come on the car, it was bought from a wrecker and fitted 1 week b4 it got sold to me, im assuiming it wasnt so much the octane of ozzi fuel but more like the injectors/pump fitted to the car it was tunned on,

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If you can afford to go to a track day you can afford to run the car up on the dyno and have your AFR's monitored. Its cheap insurance to know your AFR's are safe to hold it flat to redline. If your afr is anything higher than 12:1 at max rpm dont race it till its fixed.

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Define basic mods....

Your best bet is to look at the dyno sheet threads for your type of engine and look at what management people are using.

For drivability you can't beat factory management but you'd be suprised how far factory management will go with the right supporting mods.

Serious power always requires some sort of tunable ecu though. Piggyback or standalone makes no diffrence so long as you can adjust the fuel and ignition maps. And as is always agreed upon regardless of what ecu you get, make sure you get one that you can have tuned by a reputable tuner that can get you the result you want.

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