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Poor Rb20det, Finaly Being Put Back Together...

carl h

By carl h,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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carl h Proficient

carl h

Posted
Posted (edited)

ok first of all a BIG thanks goes out to greg at proengines and the rest of the guys there, greg was kind enough (and willing!) to help me source out parts for my rebuild since bits like bearings and timing cogs arent available here stateside, so again a GIGANITIC hooray for greg!

internal mods:

full arp bottom end (rods, mains, and head studs)

proengines crank collar

new nissan n1 oil pump

cp pistons (20thou over, .5mm iirc)

prepped stock rods

nsk bearings (mains and rods)

dual tomei oil restrictors (sorry SK, i'd rather err on the side of saftey when it comes to hydrolifters)

top end:

tomei cams

new nissan oem lifters (i cried when i paid for these)

tomei valve springs

external drains fitted to head

still putting the motor together but its finaly comming together.

only thing im not sure bout right now is the fittings in the head for the oil drain, not sure if the brass bits are up to the job or if i need something else.

thoughts on said fittings are welcome, oil pan isnt sealed right now so i can figure out where to place the return lines...

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Edited by carl h
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GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
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chances are that those brass fitings with sutable rubber hose will be 100% fine but i prefer to use braided hose for stuff like that, just makes me sleep at night.

(i have used rubber hose in oil cooler applications that are that hot and pressurized with no problems so you will still be fine, but i still like braided even as its astronomical price)

Edited by GTR1993
rice_me_up Rising Star

rice_me_up

Posted
Posted

much respect to you.

even though the rb25 has the upper hand and is an obviously easy engine swap to produce more power, im glad to see someone putting some serious effort into an rb20.

cheers. james.

carl h Proficient

carl h

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thanks for the kind replys guys, its taken me a while to collect all the misc bits i needed to rebuilt the motor.

cubes: motor failed (which i speculate) was due to the previous owner in japan not knowing how to tune a car took the std ecu, chipped it and slapped 30* advance all over the timing map. accelerated ring wear and caused ring land eroding detonation...then you have me doubling the stock power out put and well, old girl wasnt too happy.

gtr1993: word. i'll change them out for steel bits anyways, last thing i want to do is remove a broken fitting from the head with the motor in the car.

BHDave: the ignitior is actualy part of a new nissan z32 retrofit kit, my ignitior had taken a shit and since rb20 parts dont grow on trees here had to get creative, some repinning and the z32 one works a treat; plus it looks loads better than the std piece :).

fr0st: didnt go rb24 for a number of reasons formost being cost for the rewards, i couldnt justify the money spent on the power the motor would make. motor was making 288rwkw sooo with a fresh bottom end it can do more for sure. would have loved to do a rb24 but when you factor in parts cost and the machine work to mod the head and what not, simply not worth it as SK said long ago.

r31 power: brass fittings are for the external oil drain for the head, trying to keep oil pooling to a minimum with the use of restrictors and the external drains.

i'll have more pics soon enough, any luck i'll be able to mount the oil pan and then the exhaust mani and turbo...then its just a matter of getting the motor back into the car and breaking it in.

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