Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A turbocharger helps at high altitudes, where the air is less dense. Normal engines will experience reduced power at high altitudes because for each stroke of the piston, the engine will get a smaller mass of air. A turbocharged engine may also have reduced power, but the reduction will be less dramatic because the thinner air is easier for the turbocharger to pump.

So this statement is true?

Edited by MKDR33

I think the way it works is that there is less atmospheric pressure with which to feed the compressor wheel . Just the same as an NA engine doesn't "suck" in its charge air neither does the turbocharger . Technically there is no such thing as suck , just movement of air from an area of higher pressure to an area of lower pressure . So in other words there comes a time when there is not enough weight or mass of air (oxygen actually) available to feed the engine all it wants so power drops .

Its interesting to note that piston engined aircraft often seek to only provide sea level manifold pressure up to about 40,000 Ft . In the last world war RR used multi staged two speed radial compressors (technically superchargers because they were mechanically driven) to get high altitude performance from their Merlins and Griffons . The Americans used large low pressure turbochargers for Allison V type and Pratt and Whitney radials though they were not very high tech devices .

Sea level atmospheric pressure doesn't vary a whole lot arount the 1000 millibars/100Kpa/14.7 Psia so charge density would move around a little but not by a huge amount . Since we have no say about atmospheric pressure and temperature (air density) the only things we can bias our way are compressor efficiency and effective charge air cooling (intercooling) .

Cheers .

shootout mode only changes due to the AIR TEMP not the temperatures entered they are only to list on the corrections part of the SHEET

The tune also changes where the air is more or less dense so this determines more or less power.

Edited by MR331307

BP does effect dyno readings. My dyno tuners BP was always low , around the 980 mark and subsequently readings where higher than normal. When he was getting his Dyno serviced they didnt check this until a guy said your BP is very low. He now rings the local airport which is just around the corner for there readings before he puts a car on. Subsequently, dyno numbers arent as generous as what they used to be,

shootout mode only changes due to the AIR TEMP not the temperatures entered they are only to list on the corrections part of the SHEET

The tune also changes where the air is more or less dense so this determines more or less power.

wrong

Robo's is correct

A turbocharger helps at high altitudes, where the air is less dense. Normal engines will experience reduced power at high altitudes because for each stroke of the piston, the engine will get a smaller mass of air. A turbocharged engine may also have reduced power, but the reduction will be less dramatic because the thinner air is easier for the turbocharger to pump.

So this statement is true?

Wrong. A turbo wastegate operates on relative, not absolute, pressure. 10psi boost is 10psi above atmospheric. If your atmospheric pressure drops so does the absolute pressure you are stuffing into the engine, hence power will drop in proportion.

discopotato's comment about 2-stage compressors is correct - they ran a "high boost" level at altitude, to compensate for the reduced air pressure. Running high boost at sea level would have blown up the engine.

so the BP levels have no affect with the dyno results, as they enter these into the dyno, but the temperatures surely must, as in winter my car goes harder due to the colder air outside, whereas in summer there is a deffinate power decrease..

anyone recommend dry-ice intake setups?

but the temperatures surely must, as in winter my car goes harder due to the colder air outside, whereas in summer there is a deffinate power decrease..

anyone recommend dry-ice intake setups?

Hence the reason why shootout mode software was developed. It compensates by either adding power when temps are high or reducing when they are cold. In theory, if you ran on the dyno in winter and then on a 40 deg day in summer results should be the same using the shootout method.

Dry Ice? Pointless for a car that sees any street driving as you would have to constantly fill it up. My mate has a 800rwhp dyno warrior with a large dry ice setup and 3 power runs later its empty. And its hard to find and not cheap.

All you need is an ECU which runs a Air temp sensor and it compenstates the difference

If your temps are cooler you can run more timing and modifying fuel

if they get hottier you reduce the timing

When i data loged my car at the track and the dyno they were no different so this means the tune doesnt change.

you also have to have an intercooler Sufficent to your engines needs

if you had an aspirated engine Yes this makes a huge difference

but with an intercooled car nothing changes if its setup right.

The reason why the Hp changes on shootout is because the air temps go up and down

when i enter the temps the Correction Factor doesnt change

but if i put the sensor near the Exhaust or in a bucket of cold water it does.

like i said before the temps entered are only for the Corrections table

The reason for this is when you have the car on my dyno it might read 250 rwhp

but on someone else same dyno reads 260 hp

you can have a look on the sheet and see what temps are different.

Shootout mode also has a set RAMP RATE which you select and on turbo skylines will be SHOOT 6F which has a pre set Rate which you run your car on

When a dyno isnt run on shootout mode the Ramp rates need to be entered in and if the ramp is too much it will read less power and have a different tune to what its supposed to

and if its set really low will show higher HP readings and same the tune will be out by not being Enough.

People should respect Shootout mode and stop banging it as dyno dynamics didnt invent it for nothing.

I find tuning in shootout mode you wont need to do a ROAD TUNE as well.Because it loads the car up perfectly.I have done alot of reasearch into dynos and have found the Dyno dynamics to be the best for PERFORMANCE.If you want the extra DATA LOGGING computers like mainline ETC its just a extra option

Edited by MR331307

And which shootout mode are you talking about?

There's many and as the number rises the ramp rate is less to prevent wheel spin.. i.e the difference between SHOOT6 and SHOOT81. The Shoot81 is much softer than shoot6 and for some strange reason shoot81 also reads around 30rwkw higher, well in a back to back run that I've seen. >_<

so the BP levels have no affect with the dyno results, as they enter these into the dyno, but the temperatures surely must, as in winter my car goes harder due to the colder air outside, whereas in summer there is a deffinate power decrease..

anyone recommend dry-ice intake setups?

Hang on, if they enter in the wrong BP levels,it will have an impact on the result, just like what i stated above when the weather station was wrong.

And which shootout mode are you talking about?

There's many and as the number rises the ramp rate is less to prevent wheel spin.. i.e the difference between SHOOT6 and SHOOT81. The Shoot81 is much softer than shoot6 and for some strange reason shoot81 also reads around 30rwkw higher, well in a back to back run that I've seen. >_<

SHOOT81 HUH

never seen that before

The shootout mode has 6 modes

SHOOT 4 (NA 4 cylinder)

SHOOT 6 (NA 6 Cylinder)

SHOOT 8 (NA 8 cylinder)

SHOOT 4F (turbo,NOS,Supercharged 4 cylinder)

SHOOT 6F (turbo,NOS,Supercharged 6 cylinder)

SHOOT 8F (turbo,NOS,Supercharged 8 cylinder)

theres a mode for rotary too

All have pre set Ramp Rates.If your not using the correct ones it isnt the Dynos fault or problem.Just bad Dynoing.AND if you can Brake Traction on a Dyno Dynamics dyno you have problems as i have had mark Hayes on my dyno Running 1142 RWHP and it didnt have a problem.Maybe suggest NEW TYRES :)

Like i said If its used correctly its the best method for TUNING AND finding out how much hp your cars got.

Just remember A DYNO IS A TUNING TOOL :sorcerer:

All have pre set Ramp Rates.If your not using the correct ones it isnt the Dynos fault or problem.Just bad Dynoing.AND if you can Brake Traction on a Dyno Dynamics dyno you have problems as i have had mark Hayes on my dyno Running 1142 RWHP and it didnt have a problem.Maybe suggest NEW TYRES :)

Like i said If its used correctly its the best method for TUNING AND finding out how much hp your cars got.

Just remember A DYNO IS A TUNING TOOL :sorcerer:

Yer typo...

I do think you missed my point though. >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
×
×
  • Create New...