Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most of the bad threads to do with Prestige and J-spec have all been deleted. Mainly because J-spec sponsors SAU (not sure if Prestige does). That said J-spec are reasonably good though. See your in Perth.. PM sent

mmmmm, generally people who have had bad experiences have no one to blame but themselves hey :woot::)

Most of the bad threads to do with Prestige and J-spec have all been deleted. Mainly because J-spec sponsors SAU (not sure if Prestige does).

I love misinformation :) I have never deleted threads on SAU because of sponsorship/financial status.

Anything posted on SAU is the responsibility of the owner (Prank) who has created the SAU Guidelines and made it clear that he doesn't tolerate negative comments directed towards businesses.

what makes you say that?

Well with the importing process/purchasing of your new car, both with j-spec and prestige...they make it very clear that they are only in the business of aiding you in chosing the right car for yourself. Auction Grading, mechanical inspections and high resolution pictures are at your disposal to help you make this choice. What i am saying is, at the end of the day, YOU are the one that choses the car. Therefore if anything goes wrong mechanically or anything else thereafter it really isnt anyones fault but your own.

thanks.

Edited by Sambo33gtst
Why not buy a car thats already here? You get a chance to inspect it yourself, take it for a test run, and get a workshop to inspect it too.....

Because someone has to import it at some point in time, provided you do the homework like Sambo said, it's generally going to be okay. I still think it's competitive cost-wise to import over buying an already-imported car.

Because someone has to import it at some point in time, provided you do the homework like Sambo said, it's generally going to be okay. I still think it's competitive cost-wise to import over buying an already-imported car.

You took the words right out of my mouth :rolleyes:

Generally if you import yourself, and i did say generally, you can save anywhere between $1,000-$5,000 compared to if you bought privately here in Australia (Typically R33's). Just got to be patient and find the right one for the right price :)

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

J-spec dont really ask prices for anything mate. they offer a service to find and help you import cars from japan. they simply ask their fee ($1000 AUD from memory) to find the car (either at dealers or auctions) and buy it on your behalf and help you import and comply it. so what the car costs is up to you.

and in my sig :mellow:

I think we did have a couple of 180sx's for 15k landed n complied... mind you they were 1996 models which hadn't been drifted/thrashed to an inch of their life and hence ineligible to be imported under SEVS (the only way you can import a 180sx these days).

I'd easily recommend J-spec. Although I'd recommend that if you want to buy, have all your finace organised first. I'm sure they get the 'I'll call back once I've got the loan" all the time.

Although I'd recommend that if you want to buy, have all your finace organised first. I'm sure they get the 'I'll call back once I've got the loan" all the time.

Yeah the sales guys do get that from time to time, but we've given quotes and in some instances spoken to the bank etc where they need something solid to approve the loan. Some banks are hesitant to give loans to purchase cars that aren't in the country for some reason :laugh:

and in my sig :laugh:

I think we did have a couple of 180sx's for 15k landed n complied... mind you they were 1996 models which hadn't been drifted/thrashed to an inch of their life and hence ineligible to be imported under SEVS (the only way you can import a 180sx these days).

Why is it that a car that hasnt been drifted/thrashed ineligible to be imported under SEVS? Am I reading this wrong? I thought 180's are eligible under SEVS

Why is it that a car that hasnt been drifted/thrashed ineligible to be imported under SEVS? Am I reading this wrong? I thought 180's are eligible under SEVS

No I meant that most non accident damaged 180sx (ie eligible for SEVS) haven't been drifted or thrashed. Depending on the compliancer and engineer involved, even something like a repaired rear fender could fail compliance.

lol i should have put a comma in there to break it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrt the engine, you're very much limited by 'production quality' as to how much extra power you can extract from them (I'm talking i6 red-motor) -- a lot here depends on how 'authentic' or 'period correct' you want the modifications to be... ...I'm too old... <grin>...the first true performance engine Holden made, was in the HD/HR models ~ this was the 'X2' performance pack...it came with twin downdraft strombergs on an otherwise unimproved intake manifold, with a two piece exhaust manifold (reckoned to be as good as extractors)... ....these engines were built upon the '179HP' cylinder block, which included extra webbing in the casting to make it stronger and less susceptible to block distortion... The next performance i6 came out with the HK Monaro (also found it's way into the LJ GTR Torana ... the car I wish I hadn't sold)...it had pretty much the same manifold setup, but was built against the '186S' block...this block retained all the extra webbing of the 179HP block, but added a forged steel crankshaft (instead of the stock cast crankshaft), because it was possible to snap the crank... ...apart from the inherent weaknesses in the stock (cast crank) blocks, the next limiting factor is the cylinder head porting & combustion chamber design, and the actual valve sizes. Back in the day, you could buy a 'yella terra' cylinder head (from stage 1 to stage 5 gradients), and this was the way to get serious power out of them -- with the extra breathing of these heads, you could fit a triple SU or DCOE Weber setup... ...obviously, these mods were a waste of time on a stock cylinder head/camshaft grind. My housemate rebuilt the i6 in his VH dunnydore about 6 months back -- this is a 186S block with the 12port 2850 blue motor head and intake/exhaust manifolds, with a dual throat Weber off an XF Falcon mounted on an adapter plate ; it's not a bad makeup...got more torque & fuel economy just light-footing it about on the first throat, but stand on it and it makes more giddy-up than the standard 2850 blue motor that it replaced. Personal note: I'd just fit an RB30 and be done it it 馃槂  
    • Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
    • As long as its NOT a HyperSHITtune, youll be fine.
    • First time visitor and currently getting ready to start work on my HK Premier.  Its all stock, 186 with 3 on the tree.  The only mod i have right now is extractors.  I am hoping to get some guidance on slightly modifying the engine to bring a little more power. Just going for a nice, comfortable cruiser.  The car is very straight, however i have been out of the country for 20 years and its been gathering dust at a family farm.  Will be doing quite a bit of body work to cut out some small rust areas (frnt quarter panels and a few other small bits) and fix up the paint.  Will be redoing the interior (its currently black and the seats are in real need of recovering and respringing the driver side (its front bench seat).  The dash needs a little TLC, but no real damage.  As my heater has degraded I am considering fitting something after-market that will be both heater/AC (recommendations here are always welcome). Wanting something discrete that will allow me to use the same controls and not be obvious once inside the car.   For the engine, i have been told i could consider upgrading my cam (imagine i would need a new head as well) and putting a new carby (currently the original stromberg).  However not sure what is going to be the best route.  Would certainly welcome any comments/suggestions.  As  a final step I am looking at changing the wheels. Current hubcaps are in dire need of refurbishment or replacement (imagine its a bit like hens teeth).  Thinking of some clean/classic looking mags (7-inch should be more than enough - not going for a large change in look).  Welcome any comments/advice and of course any questions. 
  • Create New...