Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my car dyno'ed today... its been a long time due, and with the issues i had at the recent G1 comp (ignition cutting out) i took with me spares of everything, AFM, CAS, Ignitor etc to swap it over.. but it turns out that the ECU is a bit on the dodgy side

I always thought i had a stock map on my ECU.. but turns out that its been remapped in Japan, whoever did it, certainly likes their taste for fuel, as throughout the whole midrange (4000 - 6000) rpm the fuel mixes were off the scale and mega rich (off the scale being lower then 10:1) Couldnt believe it and neither could jeff... so he went to work taking out all the fuel, adding some timing and so forth. Took a few runs and due to some weird as ECU related issues, we wasted a lot of time and chips and so we were cut short on the dyno time.

My main goal was to increase the midrange torque and so forth, i wasnt really fussed about the top end power as much, as i was happy with that and i didnt want to run anymore boost then i already was. So with the changes to the map we were able to get phernominal torque out of the RB20 around the 4500 rpm range, the KKR430 comes on HARD now and basically the torque curve in 3rd gear is near verticle, in 4th it is equally massive. several times the car tried to climb out the dyno... crazy!

Final figure was 197.4 rwkw's on 1 bar boost, Runs were done in 4th gear.

I have taken pics of the dyno graph, however Jeff is going to be changing this in the very near future to smooth out those midrange mixtures some more.

All in all im very happy with the results.. On the road it basically translates to massive wheel spin when i floor it in 3rd and even more wheelspin when i grab 4th :)

Big thanks to Jeff from The Speed Lab for persisting through all the related ECU and chip drama's and Steve from jazmac for helping out and the Dyno hire.

1003854cm2.th.jpg

Power run showing AF mixes in 4th gear

1003855iv3.th.jpg

Pink is 3rd gear and Red is 4th gear... Keep in mind that power and torque figures are accurate in 4th gear...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129817-dyno-run-with-kkr430-turbo/
Share on other sites

Do you want an honest opinion or a pat on the back?

PM me if you want the honest opinion off the forum.

Pat on the back follows;

Looks like a good value for money result.

:D cheers :stupid:

Edited by Sydneykid

From thier own website

KKR-430

Intended for 2.0–2.5L engines, this turbo features a T3-size exhaust flange. This makes it an ideal upgrade turbo for RB20DET and RB25DET engines*. Rated at 430hp, it is suitable for drift and street performance applications, where minimal lag is preferred. It uses a 2.75in V-band flange for the exhaust outlet (V-band and flange included).

Tested on an RB25DET at Panther Aftermarket, it produced 230kW at the wheels with only 11.5psi of boost. The standard internal wastegate is designed to hold 11–12psi.

230rwkw/11psi/rb25 - doubt it

Do you want an honest opinion or a pat on the back?

PM me if you want the honest opinion off the forum.

Pat on the back follows;

Looks like a good value for money result.

:D cheers :stupid:

thats just it, people feel the need to make opinions because its a cheap turbo and bush bearing, but at the end of the day it makes power and it costs bugger all doing it.

wheelspin in 4th with 197rwkw?? Do you have granite tyres?? :D

I was thinking the same thing. I spin in 3rd when planting my 400rwhp datto with 195s and stupid camber......but with 350rwhp I hardly ever did...not to mention the 280rwhp you have. No offence but whats the go?

Get those af ratios to 12 and youll be making more poke.

Well done but do as above and enjoy more power.

I was thinking the same thing. I spin in 3rd when planting my 400rwhp datto with 195s and stupid camber......but with 350rwhp I hardly ever did...not to mention the 280rwhp you have. No offence but whats the go?

Get those af ratios to 12 and youll be making more poke.

Well done but do as above and enjoy more power.

wheelspin is provoked by torque delivery being so sudden rather then peak power figure. and yeah the tyres on the back were a bit average, 235/45/17's however poor quality rubber.

I think that's because it's accelarating from a low speed. If he was at say 4000rpm in 2nd gear even throttle then planted it, the boost would come on quickly after a second or so whereas with a bb turbo it would be more gradual resulting in less wheelspin.

That's how it looks to me anyway. I have driven a car the same as mine with a KKR turbo and that's what it feels like.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...