Cheapest, Most Fun Track Day Car ?

[scathing]

Please not trying to buts balls or anything but a a camaro/firebird is no way shap form close to a commodore. I have never seen a 4 door camaro/firebird.

If it works, it works. American cars just have a bad reputation for having bad handling is all.

I wouldn't mind seeing some figures for near-stock Camaros / Firebirds, and seeing what times they pull in comparison to cars we have available in Australia to see what comparative times are like.

[Mandingo]

So B-man any update on your little terror? takin it out?

[Big Rizza]

Get a CA18DET silvia. No body wants them so they are dirt cheap. And the 1988 model is old enough that you can import a modified one without the big dramas of compliance.

[GTR R35]

I have been looking at ex GT cars from Japan.

You can get full race spec cars from about $5-20k.

Most will have FIA approved cages and harnesses, so this will save you heaps. They will already have all the money spent on R&D.

Aside from the translation issues, I think you could get a real bargain.

[B-Man]

So B-man any update on your little terror? takin it out?

Nah - still working on it. (Part of the fun). I am doing all the work myself , just taking it slowly. It needs a fair bit of work too. You get that when you pay stuff all for an ex race car.

So far I have:

* Cut rust out of the roof and bogged up - Shithouse job, but hey. I am no panel beater. It will do !

* Half way through changing the clutch.

* Whilst changing the clutch found the some other stuff that was farked so I am also:

* Fitting New front wheel bearings.

* Fitting New front disc rotors - DBA Slotted !

* Both tie rod ends

* Both lower ball joints

* New suspension bushes all round

* New front engine mount

* Swapping power steering rack with manual rack (as the power rack had it's hydrolics removed)

* The front struts needs a refresh - one was a bit bent. But they are damn good coilovers, so I hope i can get them fixed.

that should take care of the front -

Then I need to do the rear. - The whole rear suspension and chassis has been rose jointed. It rattles like a bastard - so I think I will need to do some replacing there.

Found a couple of places that need a weld up here and there - no biggy.

I think I have decided not to register it - as it would be too costly to put back to standard - Example - the brake lines are fully braided - I means fully - from front to rear - all the standard metal lines have been removed so it would be a bitch to put back ..... and not as good !

What else - Umm - compression is fine accross all cylinders - which is good !

Need to get new seats

Remove the read seats - rig up the harness properly - might get a new one as this one is abit old.

Don't know wheter to leave it 2WD or put the tailshaft back in and see what the fuss is there - ( Locked rear diff I think - which is good for rallying, but no good for circuit)

I think I might ditch the old Haltech as it is only a fuel computer - Might rip all the dodgy woring out and put something else in - maybe a mictorech or newer haltech - or even one of thode New Wolf ECUs - Something affordable.

Then I need to get a trailer to get it places.

Oh - and get some cheater tyres..

So far the car has cost me:

$1000 for the car.

$250 for the front suspension and steering stuff

$300 for front discs.

$295 for new clutch

What's that - about $2K so far.

Maybe I should get the old seats re-trimmed - or get some of those Just Jap ones....

So I probablly put another $2-3K into it - and it will be great - and nearly all new stuff !

Fun project so far.

But god damn, I am getting dirty hands - can't get the gease off - no matter how much solvol I use ! ha ha !

[RCEBNR]

But god damn, I am getting dirty hands - can't get the gease off - no matter how much solvol I use ! ha ha !

all sounds like its going to be good fun once u get into it!

try using washing powder/liquid that u put on your clothes in the washing machine, it gets your hands nice and clean!!!

Edited September 5, 2006 by RCEBNR

[Beer Baron]

b-man, good move on ditching the computer. buy a microtech. if you can use a soldering iron, and read a diagram then you should be able to wire it up yourself.

[B-Man]

I enquired at Haltech re the computer that the car came with - it's an F2. 20 Years old ! Apparently Haltech's first ECU. Still works but !

So yeah, I think 20 years has put a lot of RD into the new ECUs.

So - Microtech you reckon ???

[GTR R35]

B-Man,

Try buying Sorbolene and put it on your hands before you get dirty. Makes cleaning heaps easier. Also some mechanics gloves are a godsend for non tradies hands as they will protect you from the scrapes and dings.

As for the car, sounds like a good project. I will buy mine as soon as I sell my house and get a new place with a garage big enough to put a racecar.

[B-Man]

Having heaps of fun ! Thanks for the tips re hand cleaning. I generally use gloves - but there are just some things that require the fingers.....

Good luck with your Project Mal. !

[evil_weevil]

sounds fun

ive found a little twin cam corolla hatch - thinking of doing stuff in stages - suspension,brakes, etc etc strip it out

[lingeringsoul]

1000 for the car? well thats cheap

[Absent]

what about a honda CRX stripped out with loads of suspension mods and chassis stiffening.

[Kennedy]

what about a honda CRX stripped out with loads of suspension mods and chassis stiffening.

Still too expensive for what they are

[JVP]

datto 1600 with an fj20...

or an sr20 but that might be pushing it a bit...

[Link]

Race/rally imports!!

Cheap as chips to buy, must have cams licence tho

Have a look what you could get

http://www.adelaidejap.com.au/racerallycars.htm

[TTT]

* Swapping power steering rack with manual rack (as the power rack had it's hydrolics removed)

AHYES!!.. Parking was fun in that car.. I have that car to thank for these massive guns (brings each arm up to kiss bicep)

Then I need to do the rear. - The whole rear suspension and chassis has been rose jointed. It rattles like a bastard - so I think I will need to do some replacing there.

It’s been like that since my mate bought it from the rally team. Are the log books still with it? It had a little booklet which showed the dates it raced and where.. etc…

I think I have decided not to register it - as it would be too costly to put back to standard - Example - the brake lines are fully braided - I means fully - from front to rear - all the standard metal lines have been removed so it would be a bitch to put back ..... and not as good !

Damn good brakes for car that weight.

I had it serviced at MRT once where they also swapped the turbo for me and Brett Middleton took it for a drive with me in the passenger seat back when they were on the other side of the bridge..

I was terrified.

He would brake so late that I thought we were going to die..

Was just a walk in the park for him..

Scary.. scary stuff.

Need to get new seats

Those ones in there are not comfortable but they are extremely light.

I’d consider getting them redone instead of changing them.

Remove the rear seats - rig up the harness properly - might get a new one as this one is abit old.

My bad.. when I got the car, it had the 2 front seats and the harnesses going to the rear strut brace..

And that is it.

I went and got carpet, rear seats and dodgied up the harness to the floor.

Don't know wheter to leave it 2WD or put the tailshaft back in and see what the fuss is there - ( Locked rear diff I think - which is good for rallying, but no good for circuit)

Not sure how it will take corners with a locked diff..

It was good on redline launches though.. LOL

$1000 for the car.

Man you got a good deal..

[B-Man]

Hey dude - what brand suspension is in the front ? One of the stuts is bent and I want to get it reco'd rather than replace.......

Cheers

[TracidTrax]

180SX with SR20DET

[TTT]

Brendan.. I can't recal.

I asked my mate and he doesn't remember either.

he said he checked at one point but they were pretty scrathed up from rallying so no visible markings to brand..

sorry