Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok now i know a lot of people would like to know about this kind of thing

now i dont have the information you are looking for but hopefully there are a lot of people that do.

soooooo

can you all please post pictures of your design for a partition, i will edit out all the general convo in this thread once a question has been asked and answered. i will then make this thread sticky, also i will keep it in the general section as its not strictly a forced induction mod nor an n/a mod.

so please post away with details if you wish to lend a helping hand :D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13003-cai-partition-diy-information/
Share on other sites

I made one up for my HKS pod filter a while ago.

All the details can be found here

http://hyperwa.com/sau/cai/

And the attached pic is what it looks like once all done.

Post up here if you've got any questions :)

J

P.S. - have a read through the Word doc on the link above, it might answer your questions.

Enrico,

i have the stock cooler and i tried everything to find out how the air gets in and its not too efficient.

I did this and it works real well:

I took off the indicator, and doing this you can see the plastic piping that runs from the airbox. I used a drill to cut a large round hole into the side of this, and used an air compressor to blow away all the plastic dust. Then i put a piece of piping into the hole so that one end pokes out into the airbox and the other end runs out of the hole, and runs down to where the air enters for the intercooler. Here you can orientate it for the 'ram air' theory and secure it to anything you can. NB it doesn't block the intercooler at all.

thought this seems relevant seeing as there is no where that describes a CAI setup for those using the airbox but still have the stock intercooler pipes in the way.

Waz.

I just thought I would add something here to make you guys aware of what an exposed air filter gets..

I recently purchased a little temperature display with temp probe.

I will be using this to see what the air temp is just before the throttle but haven't drilled a whole just yet.

In the meantime, I have stuck the probe in to one of the groves on the K&N Pod filter.

just as a test here are some results..

driving in traffic the other night, the ambient temp displayed that it was 22 degrees outside.

the temp probe showed 54 degrees at the pod filter.

when I got to on Gladesville bridge, i travelled at about 80km all the way up towards lane cove.

the ambient temp showed 21 and the pod filter showed 32.

once I slowed back down to 60, the pod temp went up to 40.

I will be boxing this up asap and will post some more results for those interested as to how much of a difference it makes.

I don't have the original air box so I can't test that..

The probe is very acurate too.

it is within 1 degree of acuracy, anywhere between negative 50 to positive 150 degrees.

Don't know about you guys, but these temps are now with the cooler wintery temps.. can you imagine what my engine was breathing in during those few high 30's days we had in summer?

I've recently made up a cold air partition for my GTS25t - and I must say it's the best value for money mod I can imagine!

I've only done a simple job, I purchased some Formflex/sheild(?) from my local Clark rubber (about $10) and that gave me enough to make 3!

I'll take some photo's and post them up, however I don't think I'll be revealing any world secrets!

Noticable increase in responsiveness, and by using my 'hand' thermometer the the air is certainly much much cooler inside the partition.

I'm yet to route cold air into it, however am pleased with the results.

Make it your project for this weekend! It's fantastic.

I bought the proper Air Box from UAS about 3 months ago now and its been sitting in my boot ever since.

I need to get someone/somewhere that can cut a hole in the bottom metal part and put a nice pipe down to the corner of the front bar.

Im sure it would take the right person about 30mins to do if they had the correct tools (which I dont).

Guest Boxhead

i tryed making one today, i was a bit quick on the template, but and then over cut(like makin it biger then template) the aluminium which was 1mm think...

i have since gave up coz i fisted it hardcore, i will go to the aluminium joint, and ask then to make me one..

ill tell how it goes when its done.. also getting them to make a pipe for between turbo and air filter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...