Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples,

I've found that even tho the help from these good peoples with all their designs is an excellent source of information (thank you all) but the problem lies when people use different brand air filters that they don't all fit i.e. Me LOL Anyway, i will be designing one for my R33 GTSt very shortly and making a mould of it and then constructing it from fibreglass to make it light, visible and mainyl to test its resistance to heat as i cna't see it soaking as much as alluminium. The best part will be i can make it perfectly moulded to the bodywork for a very neat finish. Anyway, once its done i will post pics on here and will probably be selling them if they work well and comply with a lot of commonly used airfilters i.e. HKS, K&N etc. So if anyone is interested i will be doing them cheap jus cos i want to see a lot of confused people happy with a good product :D After all who'd pay over 100 bucks for a brand name partition?? Not me lol. So they will be very well priced, basically not much mroe than materials. But i'll let you know once the product has been developed. Thnx J.

yeah once i get my car back mine will be made with my k&n filter i'll give it ago

we have a massive gillatene (spelling) at work we used when we used to make security doors now we just use it to cut ply if we need it, and im pretty sure i can get sheet metal of some type at trade price but yeah i'll see how i can make one u never know maybe for the people in melbourne i can make some for u guys :D

Doxximus: I dun mind doin it dude :P All for the fun of it guess... And i dun min dhelpin others with things i have found to be tricky. Going to start constructing a frame/skeleton for the fibreglass probably this week depending on time, but it looks like i'll be fine. I am using a rather large K&N high power Pod filter so its porbably the largest pod filter availabe therefore will be good for everyone else because they wil obviosuly have a smaller pod which means they will hopfully all fit? I'll design it as universal as possible for all filters. And as i said it will be moulded well intospace there and will be able to be pained in any color i.e. Vehicle color etc as itis fibreglass.

That looks sweet Devo, and thats exactly what I'd be looking at doing. I thought long and hard about an induction setup from the front bar but after last Friday night when I was driving through water that was over my front bar (loads of rain) I think it's best to keep the stock intake as it stays high and dry.

I have an R33 with an Apexi filter also, do you have the template for your design Devo ?? What material did you use ?

No template as such Jimbo, it was pretty much design and build.

The partition and lid were made from 1.2mm ali and the snorkell extension was .4 or .6 ali, plus a bit of 12 x 12 mm angle at the partition to lid joint and some single sided sticky foam to fill the gaps.

B T W slide the return fuel cannister thingy of its bracket,get rid of the bracket and re-mount the canister to the partition,( I used a cable tie) this gives you a bit more room to play with.

p.s. If you make up a pattern of the partition out of cardboard, it will save you a lot of wasted ali.

Cheers

Harry:cool: :D

Just took her out ;) ... more like :):D Its looks sweet, no resin touched the body at all and the plastic liner peeled off without stickin aswell ;) I had an idea aswell, i'm covering the outside of the patition with heat reflective material, the stuff u find on sun shields for front windscreens etc. This should block alot of the heat out and soak up whatever tries to get in as they are good for around 55-60 degrees which is similar temps seen around the engine bay. Its just finishin off drying now should be ready by the morning i reckon, hopefully have it fully fitted tomorrow somtime.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • KYBs are typically twin tube, putting them in the lower tier of desireability. Do you just want to replace worn out ones for the lowest cost? I mean, you wouldn't just replace one end of a car, if the rears are a similar age to the fronts, then they are probably nowhere near what they should be, and likely won't be great against brand new fronts. So, to spend ~$800 on 2nd tier dampers, when you could get a decent set of MCA coilovers for <$4k.....? As to the strut tops. 1st up, the Sparesbox site specifically tells you that they are not correct for an R33. Beyond that, why do you think you need them?
    • That's not very Toyota of the Toyota!
    • Bringing an old thread back to life Looking to put some new front shocks in the r33Gtst and the KYB still look ok for a road car. Unless there are any other options aroind that price $200 a shock?  I’d like to replace the strut tops also, is this the correct KYB no. For the strut top, KSM7124?  https://www.sparesbox.com.au/products/kyb-strut-top-mount-ksm7124?srsltid=AfmBOoq-HDru8wSlLnQrhU9gCw_uYdKg8gUQzONY-EQOdnI5iXOWEUjY 341287 appears to be the front KYB shocks part no.  thanks all   
    • LandCruiser used to get a fluid flush every 12 to 18 months.   Only because it was about that often the electric motor on the master for brake assist kept dieing and needing to come off.
×
×
  • Create New...