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Nah dude, where it is and the amount being used will just deflect heat from the outside of the partition. Cos i am only doing a partition not a box... good news aswell, its finished and fitted and it turned out perfect so far. ALl came together way better than expected thankfully, as it was a first off attemtp.

I used a piece of cardboard to make a template wall which i taped in place to where the wall will be made, then lined the whole area with garbage bags, then layed around a 2mm thick layer of fibreglass which moulded to the shape of the cooler piping and all surrounding edges. Just gotta get me so neoprene to seal the top edge and a gap down the bottom after i install the cold air feeds but so far its lookn good. I'll try n get mum to bring home the digital camera tomorrow from work to post up some pics.

Just removed the partition again to finish it up, just been down to clark rubber and got me some neoprene hollow tubing which i sliced down the center and fitted to the top edge of the partition to create a good seal against the bonnet. I have also sprayed the inner side of it in black paint, as black is good for soaking up unwanted heat (hence why factory cooler piping and good coolers are painted black). Once this is dry i will wholesaw cut into the inner panel between partition and 1/4 panel in order to run cold air feeds into the partition from same position the factory cooler cold air pickup is located, as the air down low at the front bar is the coldest possible point to obtain air coming up off the ground. Once its all done i am hoping to obtain a heat probe from somewhere to borrow to meausre how low the temp. drop is at the air filter. EVen thinking about having a small Evo style vent fitted above the filter in the bonnet to force cold air into the region. Once thing i'm not sure i fi mentioned but all u surfers would probably know, certain resin's when in a cold environment actually harden and hold in the cold eg. surfboards for strength, this was one of the main reasons i decided to use fibreglass in the first place, and i tested it when i removed it from the liner yesterday by puting cold water on one side of it and puting my hand on the other and the cold litterally soaks through the fibreglass and can be felt almsot the same temp on the opposite side to the water, this is good in that once cold, it stays cold well and with the heat deflecting liner i covered on the other side it deflects heat one way and keeps cold in on the other :P;)

If anyone wants any info at all on what i have done and researched, let me know i'll try and help as much asi can, i should have foto's up asap so ay can see it properly... and also for those who are wondering it has cost me about $40 to make the entire thing, for a moulded fibreglass partition... If ya thinking about doing it but iant sure let me know and i can even give ya hand if its possible :)

No there is the correct size gap left already for it and the piping is there just not visible in the foto. It fits between the headlight and cooler piping then runs down to the front bar, having the piping there meant, not wholesawing like i thought and a snug fit so no hot air leaks, and furthermoremakes sure the air doesn't become warm cos it never reaches the top of encloses area where hot air will sit.

Dude only thin gwith cutting wholes is u lose torsional strength in the panel. U might think i am crazy saying this when the whole is maybe 3" wide and on a panel that seems to do nothing, but tests have been done after wholesawing panels for weight reduction and the srength loss is huge!! Just be careful where u cut the holes from.

P.s. Still been looking round at other partitions people have done and one's that are being sold for around the $150 price such as the UAS one, and to tell ya the truth the simpler the better. The UAS one is just simply on sheet of neoprene cut to fit perfectly as a partition, would be around the $10-15 price to constrcut and i have a top view photo of an R33 one from the net which i am currently working on in scale to create an exact replica of it. Once its done i'll post it on here and EVERYONE can have cheap good working partitions :).

Hey _turtle_ is all finished, i have run the cold air feeds and made an alloy funnel which also feeds cold air form the stock ram tube thingy.l Works great, a lot smoother rev's, especially last night was nice and cold at 3am and was alot better. I wanna try n chuck it on the dyno with and without the partition in soon and check the results.

  • 2 weeks later...

A partition type sounds pretty good, (to block the heat coming from the engine/turbo) but i don't see why some people are making closed boxes with a opening going down near the front bar area. Isnt the idea of a pod filter to be able to suck air from 360 degrees around it rather than through say a 3inch pipe?

Also in rain isnt water going to be flying up into your custom pipe being so low to the ground. One more thing, who says the air down low is colder, have you tried walking bare feet on the road on a warm summer day? It gets farken hot and that makes the first few inches or so of air near there pretty warm too. Im not here to knock your ideas but there seems to be a few faults in the common beliefs. I am mainly researching so far so i can make up my own partition set up, as i have a unifilter trumpet style intake which is pretty damn big. Pick away at my thoughts here as i'm open to everyones theories.

the heat still gets through the partition, with the closed box u ensure that it isn't sucking any hot air at all.

3" pipe is sufficient enought to bring in cold air to the filter. instead of leaving it exposed to the engine heat and sucking that in from all directions.

at the end of the day i guess the air coming in from piping is colder than heat from the engine.

dunno about the rain, depends how big the puddle is i guess and how low ur intake is.

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