Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is an idea, probably gonna sound dumb but here goes. Everyone should have noticed by now say late at night on a cold night your car goes so much better due to the cold (more dense)air that is being sucked in and used right? What if you made a partition to block off excess heat from the engine/turbo etc blah blah. And just in front of or beside your pod put like an ice box that you can put ice in, so the air flows in cools down a bit due to the ice (condenses) and then gets used. This would also lower the temperature of your whole cold air partition by a few degrees too. You'd have to place it so that it doesnt interfere with air flow but lowers the cold partition's temperature. On any average cruising night ice would last for an hour or 2 maybe. Might sound dumb but dumb ideas can be improved to something useful. Or even reroute an AC vent to blow climate controlled 20degree air into your cold partition :P But i dunno if the power gained would outweigh the power lost due to having the aircon on.

Originally posted by warrior_350

But i dunno if the power gained would outweigh the power lost due to having the aircon on.

My guess is that it wouldn't, but i'm no expert either. Right then, off to look at my pod filter to see how I can partition it.

Keep the good ideas coming!

the air con idea... you will be losing more power than gaining sue to the running of the air con compressor.

I'll give you an update on my situation at the moment.

I have a pod filter which was exposed to the engine bay heat.

I bought a temp gauge with a probe and I squeezed the probe in between one of the fins of my K&N pod filter.

driving along at 80kmh on a night which was 17 degrees (according to my AMBIENT temp button on the R32 GTST) and the temp gauge for the pod filter said that it was 38 degrees.

This was on a drive on my way to pick up my partition from another skyline owner.

the partition I bought looks dodgey and doesn't completely block off every gap between the engine and pod filter but it does block off most.

It is made of some sort of heavy duty foam type material and the outside of it (the side facing the engine) is a heat proof silver material.

So on the drive back while traveling 80kmh after squeezing the partition in, the outside temp said 17.5 degrees, and the pod filter temp read 19.3 degrees.

I use to have a cold air pipe from the front bar to underneath the pod but I have recently gone back to a side mount cooler so the induction pipe is gone, but the hole under the pod is still there and so is the standard hole under the head light where the standard box get's its cold air.

So in the next week or so, I plan to make sure that all the gaps between the engine and filter are closed off..

I hope this has helped some of you decide if a partition/box is needed.

if you would like any more info, then please let me know.

TT

Im too lazydodgy to make my own partition, i'd rather just pay100 or so and buy a professionally made one that is out of proper heat resistant materials etc and doesnt leave gaps. I'd prefer to pay a bit to get the best performance gain than make my own that wont perform as well. Anyone have any links to one?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Originally posted by GTST

... driving along at 80kmh on a night which was 17 degrees (according to my AMBIENT temp button on the R32 GTST) and the temp gauge for the pod filter said that it was 38 degrees....

So on the drive back while traveling 80kmh after squeezing the partition in, the outside temp said 17.5 degrees, and the pod filter temp read 19.3 degrees.

Was there an obvious difference in power?? Surely extra power is the first thing you wouldve mentioned had it been a genuine 20 deg drop? 20 deg is heaps, isnt it?

I too would like to get a partition going but cant see the benefit of wasting a day off for something that I'm hardly gonna feel.

Is there any real difference between pod and panel filters?? I have a K&N pod atm. For the sake of ease, I'm thinking of putting the stock air box back on with a K&N panel filter. I cant see how the pod would be any better when the surface area of the 2 is similar, and they're made from exactly the same material.

More before and after experiences from all please....

  • 3 weeks later...

hey all, i was thinking about making my own partition as well, im still at school and moneys scarce, haha. So yeah the only problem is i dont know how to make the top of the partition line up and seal against the bottom of the bonnet, and i have very few ideas on how to do it accurately? how did u guys that made ur own do it?

I have got the cold air box from UAS in mine and I was just wondering has anyone tried to modify the standard air scoop thing from the standard air box to fit their cold air box. I have seen people using them with their partitions just haven't seen one used with a box yet. I think if it could be done it would be good, save cutting a hole and would give it a "standard" look to avoid unwanted attention. Anyone given this a go? Sorry if someone has already posted this just go tired half way through the thread and skipped to the end. Its past my bed time!

Gotta a proposal all lol... This thread has been going for ages now, and since its started i've jumped to a big turbo, FMIC etc so i have changed a lot of my set up, and have to still build me a new cold air box as my older one no longer fits so its sitting in the corner catchign dust lol Um, basically i work with aluminium fabrication and polishing, so i have built much of my stuff, i.e. catch can, coil pack cover, intercooler piping (thnx to the largest mandrel bender in aus in my factory :D ) and so on, so i am going to make a simple yet very effective and sexc looking cold air box... basically if i can get enough of you wanting them i will make a handful of them for a small cost so you guys can get some good stuff, cos i know you are all looking for something. Basically it will be a box extending from just under the guard lip on the right covering all the filter and cooler piping, and drop straight to the floor next to cooler piping and will be all polsiehd and look fancy etc aswell as serving its purpose. Everyone who is interested please PM me and tell me, as i have to do these in my free time at work (lunch time, friday arvo's) so i don't want to be wasting time. It will probably work out around $80 each plus shipping? Sound good? Polished alloy, ready to fit... Let me kno, i'll do mine in the next few days n post pics then you can see. :)

Dude oyu can have it but i havn't really looked after it lol it was only really a trial thing to see how it'd go and performance difference... a few things came out good from it, like back section needed to be higher to seal with bonnet better, front a fraction to high so needs to be shaved a bit, but the only thing it wa smakde for my air filter so it probs wont fit on yours unless you have the exact filter, as i make it to hug the filter after the AFM not before.

to add a little fuel to the fire..

On sunday I took my pod filter off and put on my standard air box with a TRUST panel filter.

I had a temp probe in the pod filter (which had a partition to stop some engine heat coming to it) so I could monitor temps.

AT BEST (on a 10 degree night) the pod filter would come down to about 15 degrees when traveling like 80km/h

normal driving on a 15 degree day would see the pod filter temp sit at about 30 degrees.

With the standard air box (which also now has the temp probe plumbed in), on sunday at about 18 degrees, the air box showed 21 degrees.

the highest I saw on sunday while looking for parking for 15 minutes was 38 degrees on a 18 degree day.

same sort of thing with the pod filter use to show over 45 degrees.

while driving, it feels a little better at low revs and can still rev to red line without strugling.

this morning on the way to work, the car AMB temp button showed me that it was 7 degrees outside.

the temp in the air box was also 7 degrees.

I have never seen such results with the pod filter.. even though it had a CAI to it.

I can't recommend the standard air box enough....

there is no way I will go back to the pod...

TT

  • 3 weeks later...

well did a bit of experimenting myself on my vt v6 trying to convince my son to do his on the r33 gtst,the results.i already had a ss inductions cold air intake plus an extra cold air pipe running to my stock air box.so i took these off & installed a pod filter only.fitted a temp probe in side the pod & then did it outside the pod the results were as follows.outside temp 20 deg.at 100kph air temp inside pod was 35 deg,air outside pod 35 deg.stop the car for 10mins heatsoak temp in pod rose to 54deg! outside pod 58deg!driving the car at 40kph in stop start traffic for 15mins temp in pod went to 45deg,outside pod 50deg,pod was getting a little help from the extra cold air pipe left partially installed.ithen reinstalled my stockfilter box with k&n panel filter.i also had painted the inside of the stock box with thermal paint.i fitted some silverfoam insulation to the outside of the box on the edge facing the engine.i refitted the cold air pipes & away we went.outside temp 22deg.at 100kph the temp inside the stock filter box after the filter was an amazing 21deg!! 1deg cooler than outside which i can only put down to the air speed chill factor.outside the box 38deg! 17deg difference!next the heat soak test after 10 mins 38deg inside,outside 60deg.then 40kph for 15 mins in traffic 32deg inside,52deg outside the box in the engine bay.these results i feel should convince even the most diehard pod fan that they must have these at least partitioned off & ideally enclosed.hope this helps some people see the light i am still working on my son but he is slowly coming round.he admits its better its just getting him off his butt to do it!

cheers

warrick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys, need help figuring out why my driver side (RH) fuse 15amp keeps blowing. The Driver Sides Headlamp is out, i replaced these a long time ago with LED ones that were working for 1-2 years. Now, the driver side light is out and i traced it back to a broken fuse. I replaced the 15 amp fuse in the engine bay and as soon as i flip the headlight on, it blows the new fuse. Any idea what's going on?
    • I found the same with Subaru’s.  I own and love the SG9 Forester, after that model 2008+, Subaru threw the ugly stick at all their line up and somehow managed to make them look worse with every succeeding year.  lol
    • It's something we all have to consider as time marches on. Also consider lifted rally MX5 conversion at that point.
    • I should be fine for a few more years, whilst I do have arthritis I also exercise and do mobility training every day to keep as fit and healthy as I can, military life, which is the actual cause of most of my joint issues, has set daily regimes, which I weirdly enjoy I also train alot smarter now, not really focusing on lots strength or puffy muscles, I'm more focused on maintaining what I have for my future older self, I actually train as much mobility now as I do exercising Check out this "simple" drill I have been doing daily prior to training now for a while now, this has worked wonders in my all round mobility   
    • I'd say one thing that may make you sell is the same reason the guy with the hard top roof sold his. He got old, and his back was giving him too much grief stopping him getting in and out... Old guy said he was 73! He looked and sounded younger than 73 to me! Or maybe I'm just aligning with old people more...
×
×
  • Create New...