Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive been following this thread with some interest cos I spent a bit of time building and perfecting a cold air box with pod inside.

I'm reading lots of posts here where people are going back to there standard box with a better brand of panel filter installed and all seem to feel that the result is superior to the pod set up it relaced. Now this may be the case, but if you want to compare apples with apples then you should take the time and effort to set your pod up properly in a fully enclosed and insulated box with a good cold air supply.Only then will you get results worth comparing, and believe me, you will never use panel filters again.

I have enclosed pics of my set up to give those of you who are keen a bit of an idea.You will see that cold air can enter the box thru the original snorkel, under the leading edge of the lid, and thru behind the headlight where the rubber has been removed.

Pod is blitz. Results are worth every bit of the effort.

Cheers

Harry:cool: :D

Well, I got a GTR with standard cooler so there aint much room. At the moment I run HKS pods but am looking at K&N but there just aint that much room for long filters. Anyhow I woudlnt mind some sort of partition but not that keen on putting together a dodgey amatuer job that I would do. Even if i did partition it, not sure if I should try & squeeze a decent intake somewhere.

any feedback would be good.

Cheers,

Penfold

Originally posted by mtopxsecret6

What material would be best used to make a box for the pod filter? IM thinking for reflecting heat away? Fibreglass? metal?

I used ali sheet ( about 1 mm I think) and lined it with a sound proofing product that plumbers use to wrap soil pipes in multi level appt. situations. It is a thin foam backed with a silver foil and lead laminate. You should be able to pick it up from a plumbers supply outfit.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Harry:cool: :P

With the argument for heatsheilding the turbo piping.

how about just doing the intake from filter to turbo, then from intercooler too plenum?

or better yet, getting a set of temp probes and seeing how hot the air inside the various parts of the plumbing is compared to ambient??

surely that would settle the heat sheild debate....

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
I made one up for my HKS pod filter a while ago.

All the details can be found here

http://hyperwa.com/sau/cai/

And the attached pic is what it looks like once all done.

Post up here if you've got any questions :rofl:

J

P.S. - have a read through the Word doc on the link above, it might answer your questions.

Could you send me an actual pic of you CAI please.

I am looking to do one soon thank you

JT

  • 2 weeks later...

Making a good CAI partition is easy if you have the know how, and the key to success is profiling it to the bonnet and feeding as much ambient low pressure air to it.

To make a template for ANY car

Use regular packing carton cardboard (3 layer is good) & scissors to make a rough template. (more can always be cut/taped back on to perfect it).

once you've got your shape right, cut out your holes for AFM, pipes/cable etc stick brads or short lengths of wire into the top edge of the partition(i.e the cardboard "sandwich" construction holds em in place.)

Close the bonnet - open the bonnet. Voila ! you have profiled the bonnet. Now make a template from this & play connect the dots. subtract 5mm or more from the bonnet edge.

Use tin snips or metal shears to cut your crazy ass shape.

Clark Rubber sell all sorts of edgings for sheet alloy. For the top i prefer 3/8" pipe lagging. It's cheap $2-3, closed cell & moulds perfectly to the underbonnet.

A bit tricky to describe without pics but the principle is the same as that executive toy with all the metal pins that would profile a face or other 3D object. Very popular some years ago.

Seriously I have done this for 3 different cars now and the results are awesome. In a Skyline: use the factory snorkel - it's bloody good; remove the rubber flaps from the headlight harness & the rubber strip that seals the bonnet against the headlight. If you can use one of the I/C piping holes, even better. You don't need to ram air in there, just make it easier to breathe lots of cool air

I'll try to find some pics...

hope this helps out.

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yea my thought was tighter engine when hot is more load a poor ground connection can't take. On that note, I had time to check my driveshaft verical alignment tonight, it's +2 and -2 at either end, so thats perfect and how I had set it up last year. What would be the easiest way to check horizontal alignment between my diff and transmission? I can think of a few ways but they're all complicated and I feel like I'm overthinking it. I'm hoping it's that as I can't see any other reason why I have developed driveline vibration since I put the motor back in. 
    • Thank god. I thought I was the only one, nobody seems to mention this (cause nobody really goes this far in Sedan land). The car's track is 10mm wider at the rear, which explains why the rears sit a little further out for the same size wheels. There's not really many options in widebody land for sedans anyway - People will just use whatever came out of the box and then buy wheels/spacers to suit. To get it perfect you'll likely need custom wheels with custom offsets if you really want to get it perfect which is what I plan to do, but I also plan to utilize more of the inboard space for tyres at the rear... which is also something nobody ever seems to do.... OR my maths have failed me after 20,000 attempts and I'm about to make huge mistakes. 
    • What colour is that?  A mate of mine went red/black on his SLR5000 tribute recently also.  And yes, also glad to see this still progressing albeit slowly. 
    • found a company that makes a flat gauge face 3-d printed mounting base kit to eliminate the dished style gauges. if anyone else is looking to do the same https://www.dashfreaks.de/shop/flat-dials-holder-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-gtt/    
    • I installed my link ecu shortly after. But car ran fine with stock ecu and r35 coils, just had the traction control and slip lights on.
×
×
  • Create New...