Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes.there was a really noticable falloff of performance when putting the pod on.when i put the box etc back on it was quite a bit better again than before because i had painted it with the thermal paint & put the insulation on the outside as well.the car just seemed that much more responsive & stronger,if that makes sense?

cheers

warrick

the standard air box with better filter is so much better.

costs next to nothing and is designed properly...

not something you rig up yourself..

I'll never do a pod filter again on any car I have.

there are exceptions though..

sometimes people get FMIC and the piping prevents you from using the standard air box..

this I can understand..

Originally posted by warrick

yes.there was a really noticable falloff of performance when putting the pod on.when i put the box etc back on it was quite a bit better again than before because i had painted it with the thermal paint & put the insulation on the outside as well.the car just seemed that much more responsive & stronger,if that makes sense?

cheers

warrick

Sounds interesting Warrick.

My experience has been the opposite though. With the POD in it feels more responsive [aside from the noise]. I put the standard airbox back on recently just to test and it not only felt restricted [less responsive] but the max boost pressure dropped also! There were no other mods at the time - or manual boost changes.

I guess it may not be a good comparison though, between a Naturally Aspirated car and a Turbo [VT versus GTT in this case]?

I am not an advocate for pods but in my experience its a better performer over a stock airbox [this includes hi-flow panel filters too].

I have made a partition for my pod and even after several hundred kms of driving it remains fairly mild - warm but NOT hot!

let me qualify what i said though.for the first say 5 mins the pod did seem good but once you got the hot air around the k&n setup felt much better.it didnt seem to alter no matter what the temp but the pod altered considerably.dont get me wrong i have nothing against a pod but what i'm saying is if you are going to have one to get the full benefit all the time you need to have it enclosed with cold air plumbed in.

cheers

warrick

yes but how much $$$ did this cost?

My pod and partition setup [DIY] has so far cost me approx $50

A 'pro' setup will be at least $200 from what I have seen :(

One day, a nice ARC box would be nice :P

or one of these BMC ones http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse.cg...duct=1004620002

Originally posted by sewid

Check out my Cold air partition site here with my now completed partition. Lots of pics.

http://www.endusk.com/skyline/caip/caip.html

Now that looks impressive.

When I put my pod on I noticed a drop in bottom end torque but once the revs got up i could feel it was a bit better (which makes sense as the pod has a bigger surface area than the stockie).

A few people have metioned that the stock intake has been designed really well (which makes a lot of sense since any R&D dept of any car manufacturer is full of $$$). So, bigger surface area + well designed intake = the way to go.

Yes?

I never said that STOCK filters were good.

I said the stock air box.

I put a TRUST filter element in my standard box.

MINES group in Japan always keep the stock air box in their cars.

if you haven't already seen it, see if you can get your hands on a copy of Best Motoring Number 5 (I think)

Take a look at the MINES GTR...

just a quick question.. Now that you have partitioned the air filter from the heat.. what about the pipe that goes to the turbo? wont that be absorbing the heat again? Why dont you wrap that with heat wrap? I did this setup on my other car(original box, with k&n flat filter, and larger intake pipe), and it seemed to run better with the heat wrap.. ?? any ideas?

I didnt actually mean wrap the turbo with heat wrap, just the piping to the turbo. On my mazda, the intercooler is some 3 times as big as this silly nissan one, and thats standard aswell. so, i guess that might affect the comparision aswell.

i was refering to the piping dude... you gotta think about what it does with the heat but shielding the piping, it holds it in, add's stress to localised parts due to excess heat internally, however drops underbonnet temps and mor eimportantly intake temp around filter... personal decision really, if you have a good sealed box around your filter you wont need it, but good thought tho.

Guest Robo's

Personally , i dont think the standard airbox is upto scratch, coming from other cars, where the airbox is much bigger than the turbo pipes etc. Remember the biggest restriction is your first restriction. The over the radiator duct, is good, but doesnt look big enough to supply enough volume of air. If you had another duct coming up from the front or something, that would be nice. Time for some planning.

I rang Purple Pig, they have some form of industrial rubber(9mm thick) which i could use as a divider. Anyone tried this, it is rated 70-80 degrees, is that enough?

i think what mtopxsecret6 means YBSLO4 is to wrap the piping from the airbox to the turbo so the cold air in the box is kept cold all the way to the turbo before it gets heated.i think if the air can be kept as close to the outside ambient as possible before entering the turbo it must help the intercooler do its job that much better.please correct me mtopsecret6 if i misread what you meant.

cheers

warrick

Guest Robo's
Originally posted by warrick

i think what mtopxsecret6 means YBSLO4 is to wrap the piping from the airbox to the turbo so the cold air in the box is kept cold all the way to the turbo before it gets heated.i think if the air can be kept as close to the outside ambient as possible before entering the turbo it must help the intercooler do its job that much better.please correct me mtopsecret6 if i misread what you meant.

cheers

warrick

Sounds good in theory. Ok how long is the pipe, maybe 30cm, how fast is air travelling? How much will heat effect during this period of travel? I dont know. Well if you can stop it , excelent, all too help that little old intercooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.
    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
×
×
  • Create New...