Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Question to those that have made their own alluminium boxes: Do your boxes get hot to the touch on the outside too???

Not if you cover them is a some high density foam (glued onto the allly that is). If you don't use some kind of insulation material, you're simpoly delaying the effects the heat soak. Aluminium absorbs heat very quickly, but with some foam against it, the heat has to get through that too - which take a LONG time, but tends to disaapate before having effect on intake temps.

Filters and airboxes have been of great interest to me and although i have not made a custom airbox as of yet i have a heap of info and research. To me a 'Fully Enclosed' box means just that, a box containing the pod, when i decide to make mine i dont want to use the engine bay or the bonnet to seal off the pod, as those metals would get hot as well. The pod i would use would be a Apexi dual intake as its non oiled(important for AFM equipped cars) and also has the best flow and filteration(various sites have tested different pods, apexi came out on top). The box would be made os 1-2mm thick aluminium and would be welded tight(except the top), i will test it by filling it with water to see if there are any leaks and such. The top would be removable in order to change pods etc, but would be fitted tight. Wrapping it up would be the job of rubber (from clarke rubber of course) as aluminum would heat up and its thicker then foam (plus would look better). Providing the air would be the job of a big Bellmouth to the front of the car. Of course it is a big job, which is why im leaving it till after i put a bigger turbo on their as i would have to change the piping, AFM, brackets etc. If you wanted to you could also heat wrap the intake pipe to the turbo. But for now im sticking with the stock airbox with an apexi panel and additional flexi pipe to the box.

  • 1 month later...

After the front mount went in I thought I'd put that hole under the air filter to use. I sealed up the alluminium box I made a bit more(photos of the box above in an earlier post), and used some flexible tubing.

Here are the pics.

1. self explanatory

2. also pretty self explanatory

3. under the bumper, looking up at where the pipe attaches to the air duct in the bar.

4. the front bar is to the right in this shot

5. the pipe here is heading back and up into the cold air box.

  • 3 weeks later...

For anybodys info, I've recently designed and installed an electronic circuit which displays temperatures from four thermocouples around the car (EGT, Oil, Intake air and Ambient air) and I did some testing on temperatures. When cruising at a constant speed of anywhere between 60-110km/h, without the CAI or partition and with a K&N Pod filter, I was getting intake temps of 10+degC above ambient. Now I get intake temps (thermocouple located just before throttle body) of only 1-2 above ambient.

Hi Guys,

Have any of u guys had any dramas with your cai kit picking up water when it rains? We had a simular setup on my dads r33 and whenever it rained the ic would fill up with water! We were considering putting a drain plug on one of the ic end tanks!

Have any of u guys had any dramas with your cai kit picking up water when it rains? We had a simular setup on my dads r33 and whenever it rained the ic would fill up with water! We were considering putting a drain plug on one of the ic end tanks!

My cai pipes have been placed/designed not to pickUP water. (although to be honost I havent driven in the rain yet).

They will pick up some to about 5cm in of the pipe but after that unless you have a few lads each with a hose or bucket there ain't no way the water is getting up/in.

Wouldnt a drain plug allow all the air to get out?

Ohh so you have a plug in it, turn off the car, then you can drain the water out. Rightt.. Doesn't sound like a great idea - i mean the plug being there seems to me like its asking to pop out but sounds good in terms of getting water out.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52538

Have a look in this thread for how my pipes go.

I can't say its a stroke of engineering genius but its simple really - the air goes up the water stays in the first part of the pipe. I've found a few rocks in it and all the dirt/particles/whatever also gather in that first part before the pipe goes up - suits me fine.

Funnily enough though since I put my CAI setup in I've noticed more road-'dust' in that area of the engine bay heh heh. Price we pay.

Here's the pic of my dodgily constructed air shield - the previous pics in this thread have inspired me to go back to my garage and make a straight cut one which will look a helluva lot nicer which I will at a later date. If I end up needing a totally enclosed box for engineering I won't bother and I'll jsut pay for a box (damnit i hate paying) but yeah.

Atleast the rubber sits up into the hood (i assume) :P

I'd say the reason you're not getting any rocks water etc up on teh pod is that the CAI pipe is a convoluted one (with "ripples" in it) and not completely smooth like a PVC drain pipe. Using PVC pipe you're more of a chance of getting water around pod area. In saying that, I been through some pretty hefty rain storms with my 75mm PVC CAI pipe that sits right up against the lower front bumper to collect air and never had an issue with water in the intake.

Yeah today i "lost" my front pipe (i found it on my front wheel) because it had wiggled out of a zip tie.

It's kinda mangled now soI just ordered some orange neoprene stuff from revolution racegear. Guy was really helpful they have a black stuff too but it's hardcore use i don't think i'll need it (plus it was more expensive).

  • 4 weeks later...

Some of us weren't lucky enough to have imports that came with standard airboxes and ducting. Mine came with HKS pod filters with no partition so it would suck heaps of hot air.

Decided to make up a fully enclosed airbox that had holes for BOV return, intake piping and the all important cold air feed from under the headlight. I made the box template out of cardboard and masking tape. I plan to make the box out of fibreglass when I get off my ass and actually do it. I'm also thinking about getting a pipe to go from the bumper opening next to the intercooler (HKS intercooler so theres less room around there) to the hole under the headlight. That looks like the hardest bit to me.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i do laser cutting and and have been thinking about cutting some designs for cold air partitions but havent got any good schematics, if someone could suppy a design that would fit perfectly i could get a couple hundred cut...

email me: [email protected]

I was gonna say if you're in Sydney I'd volunteer you a cefiro for test fit :)

Would there be a chance of you doing maybe about 10 for cefiros? I'm sure some ceffy guys would be interested.

I'd personally be lovin if you left the top bit blank so I could put in a perspex screen.

What kinda schematics would you require? Do you have a sample schematic? Cos if you would do cefiro ones I would have a go at drawing it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...