Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts4 Rear Diff Compatabilty

OREX
 Share

Recommended Posts

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

My GTS4 rear diff has started whining at all speeds, getting louder as speed increases. I've been told it could be bearings, or washers etc. but have been quoted up to $1000 for a rebuild.

I placed an ad in the wanted section asking for a used rear diff, but as the gears are 4.375 I'm told they are not the same as the more common GTST or even GTR gears.

So now what I need to know is do any other skylines, stageas, cefiros etc come out with a similar diff, so i can widen my search?

Any info is appreciated.

Cheers,

George.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130049-r32-gts4-rear-diff-compatabilty/
Share on other sites
ebola Proficient

ebola

Posted
Posted

The diff ratio in the gts4 is unique (across the r32 range).

How do aftermarket mechanical diffs comapare on price?

Also, I think you can change the ratio of a diff fairly simply... but I could be wrong.

keep us posted on what you do. I for one would like some options when my diff finally goes...

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Damn it man, unique diff gears? How typical! I've been quoted on a Kaaz mech diff, didn't specify 1 or 2 way, for $1050. I seriously doubt it will be the same gears as the GTS4 then, probably meant for a GTST replacement.

ebola, I like your idea of changing ratios in the same housings, but again, no one I've spoken to has a clue how to quote me on it. I rang one dude "Blind Elk" recommended but he wasn't sure he could fix it. Running really low on options, looking to be cheaper and easier to do a GTR gearbox/diffs combo swap etc.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
...I've been quoted on a Kaaz mech diff, didn't specify 1 or 2 way, for $1050. I seriously doubt it will be the same gears as the GTS4 then, probably meant for a GTST replacement.
I thought that was the centre only - you need to attach your crown wheel and pinion.
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yeah exactly those diffs are centre only.

In fact you can drop in any diff centre to suit a r200 short nose (all ones since r32)

As long as the noise is not in your crown wheel....but much more likely the centre has problems.

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So basically what you're both saying, is that I take my diff centre out and swap in a 32 GTST centre, but bolt my drive shafts back on etc and it will be the same ratio?

I thought there was a difference in the gears/number of gear rotations themselves inside the diff centre. If anyone's got an easy way to explain it I'd appreciate it, as I've been offered std. 32 GTST diffs for $330 from a wrecker, so if I can swap parts etc. it will be easy as hell!

Duncan, if the noise is in my crown wheel, then what happens?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

When you open up the (replacement) diff and remove the centre, it will have a crown wheel attached to it. Undo the bolts and remove the crown wheel. Then do the same with your current diff.

Now bolt the crown wheel from your current diff onto the centre from the new diff, and install that centre in your diff housing.

Since you still have the same gears, you have the same ratios.

(It will all be really obvious when you do this)

If it's a problem with the crown wheel and / or pinion, then you are in deep doo-doos. It's probably a trip to the bank to extend your mortgage so you can buy a new set from Nissan!

TurboX Mentor

TurboX

Posted
Posted

Considering thats one thing on my GTS4 that actually is OK (I prey) :mad:

what is the best lubricant to put in there to keep it that way and avoid noise/wear problems?

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks a lot for that info Blind Elk, I'm going to look for a GTST diff now, is that all I need to do the swap? And also, how will I know if my crown wheel/pinion is damaged?

TurboX- I'm told I should use some oil called "Redline Shockproof" I know nothing about it but a lot of people said to use it.

AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

so, quick question... in my R32 GTS-t, the diff is a bit whiney... so what you're saying is i can get a diff centre from something like an R32 GTR, or R33 GTST/GTR or even an R34 and it will bolt up? do they all have the same amount of splines for the driveshafts, physically the same size etc?

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys I've now seen the R200 short nose with five single bolts, or three double bolts (make sense?)

Are they the same stuff inside, so i can use either R200 with my original crown wheel (assuming it's not stuffed) and pinion gear?

Let me know if I've got it wrong again.

Cheers,

George.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yeah there are differences with the axles.

So, check out if you have the 5 or 6 bolt holes (GTR are 6 not sure about any other ones.) Then you match the axles to the # of bolts on your car and the number of splines in the diff centre you need to use.

As long as it all matches you are in business....but sorry I'm not sure which cars have which driveshafts, axles or spline counts....someone should do an FAQ about it all one day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...