Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm soon to be getting a fmic and wondering if is it worth getting a frount mount plenum at the same time or leave the stock one as it is.would like to know about airflow better or worse and temparture change does it keep it cooler as it's not going over the engine or will it stay the same temp.also what brand and cost would i be lokking at for an rb25det

cheers any help would be muchly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130377-question-about-fm-plenum-and-fmic/
Share on other sites

I made 270rwkw on pulp using the stock item.

Great response, no issues

There is a LOT of info regarding the viability of plenums etc.

However, in my opinion (as with after market exhaust manifolds) i feel the money can be spent elsewhere long before the need for a plenum has arisen.

I

There is a LOT of info regarding the viability of plenums etc.

i've search all the forums in here and couldn't find anything on it

might do this at a later stage then

dude check out:

www.plazmaman.com.au

a mate just installed one of their plenum and piping kits for RB25, one of the best looking product i've seen.

cheers dude gives me a bit of an idea

Use the original plenum and heat wrap the piping from the cool side of the intercooler to the plenum. Works an absolute treat in keeping temperature down. Forward facing plenum IMO is really pretty pointless "wank" factor sort of execise. I would really only use one in the case of a conversion where motor height was an issue. However I have heard of the Greddy one making some minor gains but again its not really worth it for the price. As R31nismoid said money can be spent a lot better elsewhere

yeah loking at about 3200 for kit which includes fmic,plenum,gaskets etc i can think of a lot of other stuff to spend the money on

might just try the heat wrap first

thanks for the replys

contact Ariel@cpc plenums, he is ISL33P on these forums, he made my plenum and it has 80mm billet throttle body, with the bigger turbo its alot more responsive, and flows exceptionally well, and wasnt that expensive either

ben...

contact Ariel@cpc plenums, he is ISL33P on these forums, he made my plenum and it has 80mm billet throttle body, with the bigger turbo its alot more responsive, and flows exceptionally well, and wasnt that expensive either

ben...

Got a pic. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...