Jump to content
SAU Community

Safe Boost Level

Jpowys

By Jpowys,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jpowys Community Regular

Jpowys

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I've just bought a r33 series 2 turbo, stock apart from pod, and 3 inch exhaust (mandrel bent) turbo back and hi flow cat. I'm putting on a turbotech boost contoller. I am sure this has been asked 1000 times before, but what is a safe level of boost to run (engine has done 55000km - thought to be close to genuine).

Any help much appreciated

Cheers

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130450-safe-boost-level/
Share on other sites
Munna1 Proficient

Munna1

Posted
Posted

Jpowys 10psi is about the max id recomend but it is debatable some have run 14psi for long periods and some have let go at 10psi or less. with a stock intercooler on a hot day you may run into problems. Have a look at the r33 tuning guide on my site it provides good info and saves you searching all over the place.

cheers

GTR_Legend Proficient

GTR_Legend

Posted
Posted

obviously depends on the age etc..

up to 10-11 is cool, But should be fine for up to 12-14, but would recommend replacing it anyway though!

best to be safe than sorry!

some people go for second hand gtr's, dont go for that, just get a walbro or bosch, think they go for 040 and 044, also known as bosch motorsport pump

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
obviously depends on the age etc..

up to 10-11 is cool, But should be fine for up to 12-14, but would recommend replacing it anyway though!

best to be safe than sorry!

some people go for second hand gtr's, dont go for that, just get a walbro or bosch, think they go for 040 and 044, also known as bosch motorsport pump

Nothing wrong with a GTR pump....Much more reliable than the Walbro's.

Evil Wvl = If the standard GTST fuel pump performed to specs then it is suitable for around 225RWKW. Unfortunately, this is hardly every the case.

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
fuel pump....when would this start to not flow enough and with what mods?

and what do people replace their stock fuel pumps with?

(sorry to hi'jack thread)

I've about to install a fuel pump from a 300ZX twin turbo. Suitable for up to 260RWKW.

Jpowys Community Regular

Jpowys

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks for the replies guys. What is a upgraded fuel pump worth? Sorry GTR_legend, i was not sure what you meant by "040 and 044"... Do you mean $40 or $44 dollars? Also, once i have installed the BC and established what seems to be a safe boost level, is there anything else I need to do?

Edited by Jpowys
Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
Sorry GTR_legend, i was not sure what you meant by "040 and 044"... Do you mean $40 or $44 dollars?

040 and 044 are models of Bosh Fuel pumps.

once i have installed the BC and established what seems to be a safe boost level, is there anything else I need to do?

Need to do? Start saving coz once you've got the mod bug it never stops. :)

eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted

i have read that with stock intercooler 10psi would be sufficient for daily driving - but dont take my word for it.

Im planning to put an aftermarket intercooler next year, and bumping up the turbo to 10psi - I believe any more than 10psi and the ecu will go crazy.....

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
I believe any more than 10psi and the ecu will go crazy.....

By go crazy you mean r&r? The ECU will only hit r&r when it detects excessive levels of knock/pinging. Some guys hit it at 9Psi. Some guys wont hit it till 13Psi. Some guys hit it earlier than others coz they use shitty fuels or have crappy injectors. So many more variables other then just simply upping the boost. The ECU does not ready how much boost you run.

AdamsR33 Mentor

AdamsR33

Posted
Posted

R&R isn't caused by pinging or knocking, your motor will still ping and knock if its got normal unleaded petrol and no R&R kicks in to stop it, its caused by excessive air flow, in a series2 the max boost the stock ecu likes is 10psi, any higher and R&R kicks in, i know cause i have a S2.

When the stock ecu gets the reading from the AFM when boost is over 10psi it thinks something is wrong and starts the R&R as a safety net as not to stuff your motor. On S1's i think its about 12psi. But in saying all that i have also read that some people were able to get more from stock ecu's in S2's. I also thought the stock turbo runs out of huff past 12psi, anything over this and it just blows hot air. Plus you have to be careful that it doesn't throw the ceramic exhaust wheel out as this is the weak link in the turbo when boosted past 10-12psi.

Ohh and by the way, i don't think you did use the search button, this has been dicussed many times before.

R33-Lovr Enthusiast

R33-Lovr

Posted
Posted

this is what i think is safe you just got your car right, get use to the power it already has for a few months, you'll probably be trashing it everyday in the first 3 months, so its safe to run stock boost, (hint, with 10psi and trashing it everyday, bye bye turbo)

then get your turbotech, pur it on 10Psi you could try 12Psi on really cold nights just to c how it feels, run your 10 Psi all the time but to trash it in hot days, when you get a front mount you can trash it abit harder,

or maybe get that flick switch thing boostcontroller set it to 11Psi and stock, 11 cause you'nt be runing it all the time... get me...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Should I use rust converter on this?

      By PranK · Posted

      Sorry the pictures suck. So hard to get camera and light in there
    • PranK
      Should I use rust converter on this?

      By PranK · Posted

      One of the first jobs with the E39 is making sure the tailgate stays up. In BMW fashion they made a little cavity under the roof to hide the dampers rather than putting them down the side like everybody else.  As you can see I have these little cavities that house the dampers. When I cleared one out and vacuumed as much crap as I could out of it I noticed a fair bit of rust. The cavity is bone dry, even after all that rain we had only a few days ago so I'm assuming that whatever allowed the moisture in is fixed but I'd like to treat the rust in there.  I was thinking of just blasting it full of rust converter but I didn't know if this would be beneficial considering I can't actually get in there to prep anything.  Maybe there's a better product?  Thanks guys
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Had a few skylines over the years anyway bought this a few years ago for skidz i think it’s been around these traps for a while anyway I plan to thrash and trash and I assume it’s going to send me broke good times
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The stock boost solenoid is just a valve. Power it and it is open. Unpowered, it is closed. When it is closed, there is no boost bleed out through the solenoid back to the inlet. The wastegate sees all the boost pressure, thus you get the wastegate's spring pressure as your boost pressure. 5 psi. When it is open, it lets some boost escape. This causes the static (boost) pressure in the line to the wastegate to be lower than the pressure in the intercooler pipe. There is probably a small restrictor in the solenoid or one of its lines to limit the flow rate of the escaping air, which limits how far the static pressure can fall, which limits the extra boost. The boost has to climb above the original/wastegate setpoint until the wastegate sees 5 psi. You get 7 psi in the intercooler pipework. A manual boost controller is exactly the same setup, just without the ability to change it on-off. It's always set to whatever you set it to. There is a small leak from the boost controller. The more you screw the adjuster in, the more it leaks, the lower the pressure seen at the wastegate and the higher the boost will be. So, yes, your diagrams are correct.
    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
×
×
  • Create New...