Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've just bought a r33 series 2 turbo, stock apart from pod, and 3 inch exhaust (mandrel bent) turbo back and hi flow cat. I'm putting on a turbotech boost contoller. I am sure this has been asked 1000 times before, but what is a safe level of boost to run (engine has done 55000km - thought to be close to genuine).

Any help much appreciated

Cheers

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130450-safe-boost-level/
Share on other sites

Jpowys 10psi is about the max id recomend but it is debatable some have run 14psi for long periods and some have let go at 10psi or less. with a stock intercooler on a hot day you may run into problems. Have a look at the r33 tuning guide on my site it provides good info and saves you searching all over the place.

cheers

obviously depends on the age etc..

up to 10-11 is cool, But should be fine for up to 12-14, but would recommend replacing it anyway though!

best to be safe than sorry!

some people go for second hand gtr's, dont go for that, just get a walbro or bosch, think they go for 040 and 044, also known as bosch motorsport pump

obviously depends on the age etc..

up to 10-11 is cool, But should be fine for up to 12-14, but would recommend replacing it anyway though!

best to be safe than sorry!

some people go for second hand gtr's, dont go for that, just get a walbro or bosch, think they go for 040 and 044, also known as bosch motorsport pump

Nothing wrong with a GTR pump....Much more reliable than the Walbro's.

Evil Wvl = If the standard GTST fuel pump performed to specs then it is suitable for around 225RWKW. Unfortunately, this is hardly every the case.

fuel pump....when would this start to not flow enough and with what mods?

and what do people replace their stock fuel pumps with?

(sorry to hi'jack thread)

I've about to install a fuel pump from a 300ZX twin turbo. Suitable for up to 260RWKW.

thanks for the replies guys. What is a upgraded fuel pump worth? Sorry GTR_legend, i was not sure what you meant by "040 and 044"... Do you mean $40 or $44 dollars? Also, once i have installed the BC and established what seems to be a safe boost level, is there anything else I need to do?

Edited by Jpowys
Sorry GTR_legend, i was not sure what you meant by "040 and 044"... Do you mean $40 or $44 dollars?

040 and 044 are models of Bosh Fuel pumps.

once i have installed the BC and established what seems to be a safe boost level, is there anything else I need to do?

Need to do? Start saving coz once you've got the mod bug it never stops. :)

i have read that with stock intercooler 10psi would be sufficient for daily driving - but dont take my word for it.

Im planning to put an aftermarket intercooler next year, and bumping up the turbo to 10psi - I believe any more than 10psi and the ecu will go crazy.....

I believe any more than 10psi and the ecu will go crazy.....

By go crazy you mean r&r? The ECU will only hit r&r when it detects excessive levels of knock/pinging. Some guys hit it at 9Psi. Some guys wont hit it till 13Psi. Some guys hit it earlier than others coz they use shitty fuels or have crappy injectors. So many more variables other then just simply upping the boost. The ECU does not ready how much boost you run.

R&R isn't caused by pinging or knocking, your motor will still ping and knock if its got normal unleaded petrol and no R&R kicks in to stop it, its caused by excessive air flow, in a series2 the max boost the stock ecu likes is 10psi, any higher and R&R kicks in, i know cause i have a S2.

When the stock ecu gets the reading from the AFM when boost is over 10psi it thinks something is wrong and starts the R&R as a safety net as not to stuff your motor. On S1's i think its about 12psi. But in saying all that i have also read that some people were able to get more from stock ecu's in S2's. I also thought the stock turbo runs out of huff past 12psi, anything over this and it just blows hot air. Plus you have to be careful that it doesn't throw the ceramic exhaust wheel out as this is the weak link in the turbo when boosted past 10-12psi.

Ohh and by the way, i don't think you did use the search button, this has been dicussed many times before.

this is what i think is safe you just got your car right, get use to the power it already has for a few months, you'll probably be trashing it everyday in the first 3 months, so its safe to run stock boost, (hint, with 10psi and trashing it everyday, bye bye turbo)

then get your turbotech, pur it on 10Psi you could try 12Psi on really cold nights just to c how it feels, run your 10 Psi all the time but to trash it in hot days, when you get a front mount you can trash it abit harder,

or maybe get that flick switch thing boostcontroller set it to 11Psi and stock, 11 cause you'nt be runing it all the time... get me...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...