Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Darn it aye, was hoping I wouldnt need to get a boost gauge

I thought they were either all inaccurate past the standard boost levels, or they were pretty much spot on.

I believe they are electrical gauges. Alot of the top brands sell electrical ones too, does this mean that they are also relateively inaccurate? Perhaps the boost sensor on the R34's isnt as good quality.

There is no real reason why the stock boost guages would be highly innaccurate, unless the sender has failed?

IMHO usually people go for aftermarket boost guages (and oil pressure and water temp) as they have more increments and are easier to read. With only 4 increments or so on the stock one its quite hard to read accurately. The difference between 12psi and 14psi is hard to judge for example, and one is safe and the other is possibly not.

ive got autometer cobalts on mine (boost/vac on an xr6 turbo). my gauge is pretty accurate when there is constant acceleration (auto, gauge is mechanical), however when i floor it and it kicks down a gear, it spikes up to 10psi, and then returns to 6psi.

my gauge also lags abit because i have kinks in the nylon tubing, which i will be replacing soon.

Its good to have a nother gauge but not really needed.

In my R33 I occassionally use an old pressure gauge I have that is fairly accurate to check the boost and see where it sits on the factory gauge.

I dont leave this connected and just have a glance at the stock gauge to see eveything is ok.

Stock gauges (iff same as R33) are a pressure transducer that sends a 0-4.5v (I think) signal to the dash.

I took a multimeter to it once but can't remmber the vs at atmospheric pressure (May have been 1.25 or 2.25v)

So it would be a 2bar MAP sensor...

0-1bar is vacuum

1-2 bar boost - due to turbo

+1 on the gauge would be about 14psi-15psi

Yeah Ive got a pivot stepping motor boost guage on my r32, it seems the stock one is pretty close.

With just a cat back and filter its running 0.7-0.75bar which is 10-11psi i guess.

The conversion from 100mmHg (what the factory guage is in) to psi is times by 1.934. So +7 on the factory guage is 13.5psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...