Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Righto, so I got all enthousiastic tonight and decided to take some more snaps...

She needs more low, but I reckon I'll save that for another day when it aint daily driven.

post-34582-0-14227900-1327750442_thumb.jpgpost-34582-0-96966000-1327750446_thumb.jpgpost-34582-0-09463800-1327750450_thumb.jpgpost-34582-0-76110900-1327750452_thumb.jpg

what sizes regs? looks like 17x9 +18?

Haha, nah my offsets aint nearly that tuff!

The trick is to fit correct size tyres for the rims (235/45 and 255/40 here) and also make sure the camber isn't too negative.

They're 17 x 8 + 35 with 235/45 fronts, still at around -2 degrees camber though, and 17 x 9 + 38 with 255/40 and -0.5 degrees on the rear.

I'd prefer to have the fronts more flush too, but this setup gives me less scrub as a daily driver (even with rolled guards)

Oh, and I'd heard that Regamasters were pretty light, but I was amazed once I actually had the old rubber off them.

I didn't have any scales handy, but I reckon they'd be lucky to be 4kg per rim!

thats a massive tyre.. spose you want good traction or something

Haha, I aint no drifter. I have a spare set of Dunlop semi slicks stored under covers for special occasions! :thumbsup:

On another note, I think we met ages back on a V.I.C. cruise to Arthurs Seat. I have Advan Tri-spokes back then.

Jap_star, love your genuine TE's... no Vaarstoen copy there!

I've just always wanted 235's and 255's to perfectly match 8's and 9's... get the same style tyre sidewall etc.

Oh, I almost forgot. How the hell do you attach a full pic like yours? All mine come out like thumbnails!

You can always go 275/40 :whistling: lol

2012-01-19143635.jpg

Hey guys i just picked up my first skyline a few weeks ago, thought id post up some pics. Fairly stock, just pod/exhaust and a bride seat with a boost guage. Loving the car and looking into doing a few mods soon. :teehee:

Looks mint mate, congrats :thumbsup:

Cheers, yeah im thinking of getting rims next, i really like the TE37's haha, i like the stance you got there with your car. Whats the general consensus on sizes and offsets for a r33 without rolling the guards, kinda of a broad question but i wouldnt mind some feedback on what you think for mine.Ive been reading about staggered fitts? just unsure of the offsets really.

Cheers Josh

Edited by Joshhr33

Cheers, yeah im thinking of getting rims next, i really like the TE37's haha, i like the stance you got there with your car. Whats the general consensus on sizes and offsets for a r33 without rolling the guards, kinda of a broad question but i wouldnt mind some feedback on what you think for mine.Ive been reading about staggered fitts? just unsure of the offsets really.

Cheers Josh

Well alot of people will tell you that you cant go bigger than 9.5" on the back and 8.5" on the front. But mine are 10" on the back and 9" on the front with no guard rolling (as you can see in the picture)

However, mine has a little camber from the lowered springs, and they are 17's where as most people prefer 18's

But I look at my car in pictures like this one and think 17's are enough :D

(There are 255's on the back in this pic though lol)

377625_250957394958212_240905932630025_643296_1759820883_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • me too wasnt real happy and cost me a penny or 2 to replace
    • But there's the archetype for the name plate! Here's my view on that stupid TÜV ruleset. Buy a brand name aftermarket piece of equipment. In this case, the Mines front pipe we're talking about. Get it TÜV certified on the car. Damage the underside of it, say on a speed bump. Cut out the damaged section, replace with fresh metal. (For the sake of the argument only), continue doing that to the whole pipe until it is all gone, replaced with new metal. Is this grandfather's axe still the same front pipe? The design hasn't changed (much). The pipe walls are in the same places. The flanges are in the same places. It is functionally identical. How does this differ from a pipe that is ever so slightly different in fabrication (ie the number of welds in it, a few mm here and there in terms of where the pipes run, are joined, etc)? Anyone with 0.5% of a brain can see that there is absolutely no way that the performance (power, environmental aspects, noise, etc etc) of it can be any different than the genuine Mines pipe. Maybe even Mines made 2 versions of this design, with the same differences. How would anyone (say a TÜV inspector) ever be able to differentiate between them? And yet, they are so bloody anally retentive about this stuff. Mad. How upset would they be if you had the wrong spring washers on the flanges?
    • Sakura (cherry blossom) tree at the end of a path going through Kabutoyama Park in Nishinomiya, Japan. Taken with Sharp Aquos R8
    • After a fairly extensive search using Japanese terms and checking Minkara etc, I couldn't find anything even close to your front pipe in the photos. I'm no expert but the two pipes merge really close to the flange connected to the catalytic converter which is rather unique from what I've seen, which makes me think it's more than likely a custom front pipe. The welds and 'more pipe sections than usual for a brand name pipe' makes it seem like a custom one.  Here's some photos of an old Mine's front pipe. You can see that it's just 4 pipe sections as opposed to 6, and arguably looks more like a 'production' front pipe:
    • Wtb r33 low side s2 ac line 
×
×
  • Create New...