Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^ the spark plugs didn't fix the problem, they just hid the symptom. the real problem is the coil packs getting tired, running a 0.8mm gap is a band-aid for this. but hey, it works. I ran 0.8mm gap in my R31 for ages :)

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine was fine with just a 3.75" catback 'zorst, then had spark breakdown @9psi with FMIC and stock ECU. I re-gapped a set of V-Grooves to 0.8mm, put 'em in and . . . . . . STILL breaking spark! (not as badly though). Simon at Nizpro said that's V.Common for the R33 GTS-T, and . . . . A PowerFC and Tune fixed the hell out of it. The Factory ECU goes V.Rich above stock boost, makes a heavy mixture to push spark through.

I put a higher flowing Turbo on, went to pump the boost . . . . Spark Breakdown ! ! couldn't get past 10psi . . .

I did the high-temp silicone trick, and now it'll push through a 12.3:1 Mixture at up to 18psi, with 0.8mm gapped iridiums. I think the V-Grooves were a frag better, going back there once the iridiums are done.

The moral of My story? If you've got weak/leaking factory coils - You CAN chase your tail around, and Dodgey-fix your way through to running decent boost & power, BUT it's a VERY fine line you've gotta walk, between spark gap, boost, and mixture.

I'd LUUURRRRVVE a set of Splitfires, but I'm getting by on $11 of silicone for the moment, and I just don't have the cash. I have . . . . $6, not $600. (I LITERALLY have $6!!)

lol good to see the silicon trick is working well. Well enough to give you a little time to get some $$ together. :w00t:

Yeah, EggZackery ! ! As much as I'm a tightass, I'd lurrrvvv a set of splitfires in there, so I can get back around a 1mm gap, and punch out a heartier low-midrange wad of Torque (and Turbo spool-up). One of the coils has started "popping" & breaking-down at 18psi though, so I'll have to see which one's peeled the silicon off a bit (I'm guessing it's that).

Oh, The V-Grooves I had so much joy from were NGK R series, BKR6E - They're like, $3 each or something !

Some more info on the famous misfire problem. If you have a stock motor and have just slapped an exhaust/pod/upped the boost to 12psi with stock ecu, then they can run very very rich. Mine was getting down to 9:1, had to gap the plugs to .6 WITH splitfire coils for it to not miss. Even still in cold weather it would miss. Got a remap (12:1) and I can run 1.1 all day everyday. Often a combination of shagged coils/bad tune will cause the misfire.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
    • @Duncan Random side note, did the cops give you the driver/owners details of the taxi and then did Shannons give you a refund of the excess once you supplied those details?
    • Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past  
×
×
  • Create New...