Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all...

Iv been reading the forum for a few months now, only just registered.

Iv read a few threads that seem to be similar, but just wondering if anyone can share any advice.

Im the proud owner of a clean R32 GTR, and it provides much fun and pleasure.

I had a problem with it about a month ago, and only knowing what i know about engines & cars through the magazines and forums i read, so dont be too harsh (im hardly a DIY mechanic).

The problem i had, was that i would accellerate but the car would jerk and not go anywhere. The revs would also not go up so i realised it wasnt a driveline problem, but something to do with my fuel pump / lines or intake / ignition & spark.

I took it to my mechanic (normal ultratune who it is generally serviced by) and he refered me to a EFI specialist.

He told me that i had faulty O2 sensors in my dumps, and that he would replace them as the factory ECU was getting different airflow readings from the AMF's and O2 sensors which was causing the engine to cut the fuel or inject too much (rich and lean etc) which was causing it to hesitate and not accellerate.

Cut a long story short, the EFI specialist charged me nearly $500 for fixing and testing the O2 sensors and to make sure that the engine was running ok. For the first week the car was good as new, but recently it has started again.

I was going to ring him and let him know that he hasnt done the job properly, or is it something else, like coil pack or sparks / fuel pump / faulty or dirty AFM's etc that could be faulty instead of what he has replaced???.

Any feedback would be great, as if im gonna ring him to give him a serve, i wanna be right or at least have some ammo to go with.

Again, im a newbie so be easy.... Has the specialist pulled a fast one and ripped me off????

Cheerz!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130600-help-with-gtr/
Share on other sites

Firstly, AGAIN!, O2 sensors do not play any part in the running of an engine while accelerating. This point cannot be stressed strongly enough.

Now, to the potential solution - how old is the battery? Nissans are EXTREMELY sensitive to voltages. The battery may be in good enough condition to start the engine, but then so much time gets spent re-charging the battery off the alternator that the ECU doesn't get enough voltage and views this as a problem, and starts playing silly-buggers.

Failing that, the ECU may be sensing some sort of "knock" - maybe due to leanout from a failing fuel pump. Under that circumstance, the ECU retards spark which retards power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130600-help-with-gtr/#findComment-2416859
Share on other sites

Firstly, dont take the car to ultratune

Second, dont take it to a supposed "EFI specialist"

Both will know nothing, and as you found out, he said O2 sensors which have nothing to do with the problem you describe.

1) Clean AFM's

2) Change plugs

3) Check all CAS/Coil/Ignition connections for corrosion and/or poor connection

4) Check battery age, if old, change it

5) Fuel system - fuel pump/rail pressure. Fuel filter change.

6) Test coil packs - see DIY section fo the how-to

Thats enough to get you started.

Oh, and take it to a performance workshop that specialises in Skylines, or you'll have more problems

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130600-help-with-gtr/#findComment-2417985
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
    • If you are keen, have a look at my build thread. Car is for sale for the right money or straight swap for a F80 M3 LCI.
    • Welcome mate.  No point in over thinking it, buying any one of those cars you mentioned is not a smart or logical choice with the availability of many "better" (re price to performance) cars available to you.  The heart wants what the heart wants, buy whatever it leads you too.
×
×
  • Create New...