Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a R32 GTS-T. Mods include full exhaust system, boost controller, coil packs, air intake and soon to be fmic and apexi fc. Just a question? Is it possible to get this baby to smoke your average R33 or R34 and even stand in the shadow of a GTR?

I've been told they have no bottom end but there must be a way to fix this? Any points of view out there. I just think that If I spend another $10000 or so on carbon bonnet, coil overs, bearing turbo, fmic and other items without knowing what its worth.

Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130637-rb20-better-than-rb25-or-26/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mod for mod, the 25/26 wil always beat the 20 due to its extra capacity. however there are a few highpowered RB20's arounjd the place that with a grippy set up car would more then likely blow away a stock GTR...

as for having no bottom end.. well they are only a 2 litre motor, so you either need to rev them to get power, or add capacity

either way, i love my rb20, makes great power for bugger all bucks!

dollar for dollar spent... RB20 wont ever match an RB25/RB26

Its just not going to happen. Capacity dictates much more broad power curves so more power, for longer.

The only way to be better, is to spend more, and i mean a LOT more money than the other person

Hi,

I have a R32 GTS-T. Mods include full exhaust system, boost controller, coil packs, air intake and soon to be fmic and apexi fc. Just a question? Is it possible to get this baby to smoke your average R33 or R34 and even stand in the shadow of a GTR?

I've been told they have no bottom end but there must be a way to fix this? Any points of view out there. I just think that If I spend another $10000 or so on carbon bonnet, coil overs, bearing turbo, fmic and other items without knowing what its worth.

Thanks :)

How do you mean "beat" a GTR? Can the GTR be modified aswel?

Power FC, GTR injectors and a HKS GT2530 will give you 270ish rwhp, and a well powered, reliable and responsive RB20DET. going any bigger turbo will give you excessive lag, unless u like lag :)

Edited by _8OO5TED_

rb25 has a far better head for flow than rb20 so you're already losing

the 500cc difference means squat all in comparison in my opinion

rb25 isn't built any tougher than an rb20 though, so you'll bend or break things anyway

Dont forget, R32 GTSt is between 1250-1300kg. An R32 GTR more like 1550kg. So you dont really miss the torque as the car is reasonably light.

If you want general all rounf performance keep an eye on power to weight. An R32 GTSt with 230rwkws will not be a slow car. With sensible suspension, wheels and tyres it will do mid 12s at the drags, and be on par if not quicker then std turbo GTRs. (Gross generalisation but i think there is some truth to it)

The head flow thing is interesting as well. Sure the RB25 has bigger valves, but what is the ratio of the cc of each cylinder to the total inlet and exhaust valve face area?

I have never done the calc, but could be interesting. Ditto the SR20 vs the RB20, as each cylinder has less cc, and the smaller physical valve size may not be such a big deal when you look at it as a percentage of cylinder displacement.

rb20 = lag

but its f**king reliable and very kind to its owner...

not sure one could say the same for an rb26.. it generally needs money adn TLC to keep going from what i have read

With RB26 and being reliable, they need one good rebuild IMO and that cant include shortcuts, then go and abuse it however you please!

If you had a standard RB26 and didnt do boost exhaust etc and treated it well it would last for ages, the thing is, who buys a GTR to baby it? They're all driven as hard as they can be at one point in their life at least, and after 200,000k's in some cases you cant really blame them for bearing failure etc :O

Dont forget, R32 GTSt is between 1250-1300kg. An R32 GTR more like 1550kg. So you dont really miss the torque as the car is reasonably light.

If you want general all rounf performance keep an eye on power to weight. An R32 GTSt with 230rwkws will not be a slow car. With sensible suspension, wheels and tyres it will do mid 12s at the drags, and be on par if not quicker then std turbo GTRs. (Gross generalisation but i think there is some truth to it)

Standard turbo GTR R32 running 15psi and clutch etc should do a mid to low 12 :laugh:

When are you GTR guys going to come to terms with the fact that your cars plain suck! :O

...lol and when are ppl going to stop comparing them? A neat GTSt will be a good all round car. A std GTR is a good all round car. From what i have seen a GTR doesnt have to be very modded to be an even better car, as the factory gave the thing pretty good gear from the start.

...doesnt change the fact that GTR owners have to use velcro shoes because they struggle with shoe laces :laugh:

When are you GTR guys going to come to terms with the fact that your cars plain suck! :O

Lol

I give credit where credit is due

I drove an R32 GTST, the boost never came, even though it was lighter than a GTR which was good i would still take a more peaky turbo/motor combo over the RB20 standard setup

:laugh:

Anyway this thread isnt about GTR vs the world, in answer to the question, you can get heaps of power out of the RB20 for the R32 shell (good power to weight i mean) but as for it matching a GTR, doubtful IMO, there are some out there with huge power, but power is no good without traction

...i dont :)

Im going to so kick some GTR ass at Wakefield....and if i dont ive got a long list of excuses already prepared. :)

LOL!!!

Ill be there, look for the guy hungover with an SAU shirt on and a can in hand - come say Hi :)

if u want reliability then stick with the rb20

funny that the rb20 is older yet seems there is many more 25's and 26's blowing up... maybe due to the fact that every man and his dog has either an r33 or 89 gtr

Also, the more powerful motors are thrashed harder IMO so they have a much harder life

Rebuild time is just a good chance to upgrade anyway :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...