Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is a graph from my last dyno tune...

dynograph2.jpg

My A/F ratio is a little high and i'm getting high knock levels at high rpm...

On a post earlier someone suggested that it was my walbro 255lph fuel pump that was giving out and not flowing enough fuel...

However, I'm still using a sII rb25det afm and making 371hp...

Would this be a problem causing my high knock levels or the fuel pump?

I turned up the fuel pressure to 50psi and my injector duty cycle is set at 87.0% on 550cc injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130868-afm-questions/
Share on other sites

Dude I've figured out now that you are in the US somewhere (probaby Georgia) but you should state that since 95% of us are in Australia and use different methods of working out horsepower - we actually prefer kilowatts but anyway...

So to your question; Yes the AFM should be well and truly maxed out. What ECU are you using? That said we have been using these walbro's and they are shit. You are right in the area where flow becomes a real problem.

Here's an easy test for you.

Put car on dyno.

Take off fuel return line and point into a bucket or tin.

Run the car up at full power.

If the return flow reduces to a trickle or even worse stops completely (as it did mine) take the pump out and sell it to someone who has less power than you.

This test is cheaper than replacing your pump just in case and since we don't know what ECU you have or the tuner's methods we can't comment on the afm really.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130868-afm-questions/#findComment-2422352
Share on other sites

running 50psi base rail pressure? Do i read that correctly?

Thats astronomically high for 550cc injectors that should pump out (in your terms) over 450rwhp on the stock 38psi base.

I would say the fuel pump is not working, remembering that walbro's are nothing but a waste of money.

Make sure the pump is seeing the correct voltage.

If it is, rip it out and put a bosch/nismo pump in there and be done with it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130868-afm-questions/#findComment-2422401
Share on other sites

Yesterday I hardwired the fuel pump to the battery... It's now recieving 13. + volts and I'm still getting high knock levels in the high rpms..

I'm using a PFC and my car was tuned at a certified excel tuner facility..

So are we saying that I could be getting high knock levels because my afm is being over flowed? The reading on my pfc is saying my afm is seeing 5115mv or something along those lines...

So it looks like i'm getting a new fuel pump... prolly not the nismo because it's twice as much as a bosch pump... what do you guys recommend? I see a lot of people on here using 040 and the 044...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130868-afm-questions/#findComment-2424293
Share on other sites

yep sounds good mate....practically everyone runs a bosch these days...they do the trick very nicely.

Yes your airflow meter is out of range for the airflow your seeing. You need to get a z32 or q45 to cope. What rpm is it showing 5v?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130868-afm-questions/#findComment-2424390
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...