Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive had my car (stock wheels) sittign on 30 PSI (?). I noticed the car didnt roll too well when up on a hill. Because I drive a lot on freeways I pumped my tyres up to 40 PSI... the car rolls much better now and I am getting better economy, I know that I now should take care in the wet as the tyres are not as grippy.

Whats your tyre pressures?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130975-tyre-pressure/
Share on other sites

For stock rims i found 32 front, 30 rears (300zx rims) the best

But then again i didnt drive around with much thread.. maybe 2mm max on rears.. Plus my tyres were old.

Anyways i have pumped the fronts to 38 once and it seemed fine.

I do a lot of freeways also, but cant tell the difference on highways tho lol

Got 235s on fronts now with 30psi pressure.. Seems fine

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130975-tyre-pressure/#findComment-2422881
Share on other sites

I'm running 36 all round, because that's what the manufacturer recommends (B/S Potenza G III, 235/45x17).

When it's wet, INCREASE front tyre pressures - holds the tread open for better water dispersion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130975-tyre-pressure/#findComment-2425245
Share on other sites

That's the reason for owning your own tyre gauge - at least it will be consistent between servos.

You're telling me dude!

I hope not much damage was done to the tyres, no wonder why the ride was crap.

I got back from overseas for 2 months and figured I needed to check pressures and so I did, unbeknown to me the servos automatic tyre pressure thingo was not accurate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130975-tyre-pressure/#findComment-2429533
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would run 2x from the cam covers into the catch can, 1x sump vent to catch can (would mount this at a low point of the catch can, so it can also act as a drain). I would see if you can run a -12AN down there to improve venting and also draining. The head drain thing, just drain that back to the sump on the other side. Catch can to be vented, unless you plumb or back to the intake.
    • Yeah the head "drain" is rather a sump/crank case vent. My catch can stopped filling up after venting the sump to the catch can. I have 4x fittings in mine, which is about 5Ls. 2x cam, 1x sump vent/catch can drain, 1x fitting back to the intake and a massive breather which can be blocked so it's a fully sealed system.
    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
×
×
  • Create New...