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ive got about 10 of the 50 remaining, which will be taken by the remaining people on the list (on here and pga). do u want me to add u to the list? (u might get in if people are too slow/dont want one). otherwise next batch will be around january

Yesss please... arghh i didnt see them on pga >.<

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This is mine set up on the dash. You can see most of all the dash displays etc and its not distracting because the ECU display is not bright but perfectly readable. The cables can be tucked neatly under the ledge into the steering column cavity and through the inside of the dash so are not untidy and the RS232 plug can reach through to the pas seat to a laptop OK. I only used a small pad of velcro at each end as its so strong and makes the unit hard to remove if you use the full length.

post-12111-1164153443.jpg

The photo is chopped tthough as the flash was stuffing it up. An extremely handy device but I still am not sure what values I should be seeing at initial power on and then at idle etc.

Peter can you list some typical values of all sensors?

batt: <12 car not on, ~14v running

eco: 99.9 (infinite) when car not moving, 20->99 under acceleration, <20 cruising (assuming set up in options)

inj: ~5-10% on cold warmup, 0-3% normal idle, 3-100% depending on load. 100% peak doesnt necessarily mean your injectors have maxxed out, you need to hop on a dyno to work out this

timing: anything thats BTDC, big jumps down from like 30 to 3/5 under load may indicate pinging/det (logging will help here). if timing jumps around from ~3 to 15 or so at idle, your closed TPS switch may not be staying shut properly.

aac - auxiliary air control, lets air into engine bypassing throttle, will be high (~90) on startup/AC on, but should fall to around 20-40 when running normally

o2: 0.3v till sensor warms up (30s), then swinging between 0.1->0.9v and back continually when cruising. from memory, 1v = rich, 0v = lean. on decel/engine breaking will probably go lean, and rich on acceleration

engine temp: "warmup" time typically to around 60-65C mark, then normal operation. be worried if it gets close to 100, but in low/mid 90s is generally fine.

AFM: generally corresponds to load of engine, 0.5v when not running, 1.0-1.2 idle (after warmup), if this hits 5v then you're probably getting close to peak power for current AFM (should determine this on a dyno).

tps: ~0.5v closed, ~4.5v WOT, and linear in between (roughly)

Hey Peter, my unit just arrived, thanks mate!

I haven't used it as yet but I have to say I'm very impressed with the unit itself, and your packaging. Very professional.

Can't wait to try it out

Dane

Awsome! Picked mine up last night. Peter explained everything to me.. even gave me a jump start (stupid battery)

Thanks Peter!

  • 2 weeks later...

i may have a couple of left over enclosures (ones that didnt closer perfectly for one reason or another) that i can probably fix u up with whenever i do next upgrade.

just tape sides with electrical tape for time being (depending how bad it is). it's the front lips bent out a bit?

i may have a couple of left over enclosures (ones that didnt closer perfectly for one reason or another) that i can probably fix u up with whenever i do next upgrade.

just tape sides with electrical tape for time being (depending how bad it is). it's the front lips bent out a bit?

Haha I did tape it up..

Its the back of it that has lifted up mainly on one side

regarding the peak values that it shows, they seem to be reset automaticaly once the ignition switched off and then on? is this the way it should be? i see there is a 'clear peak values' option but it seems to do it by itself...

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