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Ecutalk Consult Lcd Displays


NewKleer

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Nice, then I'll take one, how do I go about paying/ordering?

read the first/second post in thread :D

if u can pickup/help with testing (would be useful for the GTR to test ive done it right, i dont actually know till then), u get to jump the queue - otherwise ull be put at end of the list, and will be contacted if/when one's available

if pickup/testing, just bring money whenever we meet up, and if ur happy with it then (ie, no bugs i need to fix, which is possible and the whole point in testing) then u can buy it then.

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this or following weekend may be possible for me - depends when i get it "finished" by - later is better than sooner as i never meet deadlines :D

send me a pm with the 8 bits of info at end of first post

also a msg to everyone - final cost may rise slightly to 210-220 depending on costs of legal advice. at this stage it looks likely that ull need to sign/send a disclaimer/waiver that basically says if ur an idiot, its not my fault. just to cover me in case, by any chance ur a rich kid with a lawyer as a father and disfigure urself while doing a 0-160km/h time trial down parramatta road in peak hour rush... :P

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good thinking! will see where that takes me, though im not sure whether theyd give advice for what theyd consider "commercial" or non-student enterprises

edit: yep just confirmed that they dont provide free help in this area, worth a try though

Edited by NewKleer
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0-60kmh, 0-100kmh, 0-160kmh, and 400m time trials are done (all have speed/distance), all except for the clearing of best times.

distance is calculated from average acceleration between each jump in speed (2, 4, 6, 8 etc km/h, every 2 kph is lowest consult speed resolution), on the assumption acceleration is linear within that interval

as the rate of change of acceleration (that is, the rate of change of the rate of change of speed :/ ) is relatively negligible over such a small interval, the distance measuring is reasonably accurate (i hope!). ill compare it to my odometer reading next time i put my display back together to test and go for a drive.

this means that a L/100KM economy reading is a possibility (will require injector CC size setup) - i still have to decide if ill try to do this or not.

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edit: fixed num injectors used per rev in 4 stroke engine - thanks enilyks33r

if anyone has time to check my maths for calc L/100KM, go ahead...

input:

injector size: s ml.min-1 (user input)

inj pulse width: p ms (consult) - this is fuel injected per rev of engine per cylinder?? hence we need:

number of injectors: n (user input) - this will be divided by 2 for 4 stroke engine down below where its used

car RPM: r rpm (consult)

current speed: u km.h-1 (consult)

determine:

1 rev period: t = 1/(r/60) s

inj ml per period (all injectors): m = (n/2)*(s/60)/t ml

speed in m/s: v = (u * 1000)/(60*60) ms-1

now we have ml of fuel used in the single RPM

assuming constant speed over that revolution of the engine, distance travelled, in m:

d = v * t

to get L/100KM:

ECO = (m/1000) / (100*(d / 1000))

= m / (100 * d) L/100KM

Edited by NewKleer
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So this unit would be fine for a Z32 300zx with a stock ecu?

There would be dozens of Zed owners here who would lap them up. :blink:

going to be testing them on one at least, but no reason why it wouldnt. has the RH o2/afm readouts so should be good

but theres too many people that want one already, so im not going to be posting about them anywhere else yet till everyone on here and pga has one first :)

Edited by NewKleer
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got the L/100KM working, works great!

also found out while driving to bondi and back i did my distance calcs for time trials wrong and was assuming the speed in kph was same as speed in metres/s (its around 3 times as much), so my leisurely 400m times were <10s :P

the 0-160km/h time trial is also good to use to test how accurate distance measuring is compared to your odometer (my odo is broken atm so that doesnt help!) as assuming you dont hit 160km/h, it will run indefinitely (until you stop it).

the unit gets warm while running due to the voltage regulator inside, at a guess maybe ~40 degrees? will see what i can do to lower that (temp is due to voltage reg having to drop 14v down to 5v...its possible to make an external voltage reg drop temp from 14v to 9v so the one inside the module only drops 9v to 5v and shouldnt heat up much at all)

ive bought a whole bunch of 0.5A fuses ill be testing, final unit will probably have a fuse on it to give people a piece of mind that it cant short anything important or blow any car fuses (assuming unit somehow were to malfunction).

not much longer to go now hopefully!

Edited by NewKleer
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here's the pics of 2 potential spots in my N14. in the flipdown if u dont need to look at it much, and on steering column. note the angle on steering column is straight on and u cant see clock - but from a higher position where drivers eyes are, you might be able to see clock. the device is also "falling over" backwards a bit so its taking up slightly more space than it would otherwise due to angle its on.

incar1s.jpg

incar2s.jpg

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