Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

i hope to edit this with more pics and more info,

hopefully this will be a start to finish engine removal, recon and refit, along the way i will try to do things as best i can with the cheapest parts i dare to fit...this is a budget build!!!

please be patient with the thread as i intend to edit this over a few months

hi

after buying a R32GTR the engine blew after 2 days on the way to the mechanics....i had a "det" noise and then lost a lot of compression on no:2 cylinder

i was fully aware of a tapping noise and i understand that this is a signature noise of detonation but this was soo loud i thought it was a gearbox mount..the car has a shortshifter on it but the seal had not been fitted allowing the noise to come from the gearbox area so even though i was on the way to a friends garage to have a look when it was on the lift i gave it about 3/4 throttle for a few secs and it dropped a cylinder

when i got to the garage we didnt bother checking the gearbox mounts lol but we did stand around shaking heads under the bonnet, we noticed that the fuel regulator hose had come away from the regulator.....this is a serious failure on a turbo car as the fuel regulator needs to increase the fuel pressure as boost rises, if it does not then the engine will run lean and detonation occurs

it may have been knocked off by one of us just before we noticed it so its not a definitive cause of this failure but its a good theory for the moment

upon checking the compression was 165-170psi across the board on the tester apart from no:2 which was 40psi down:apoke:

i havent the cash to pay for a rebuild and not many want to help on a project like this so i have done 99% of it alone

heres a pic of the car in my back garden awaiting rebuild

sideview0nn.th.jpg

another as the dismantle process starts...chassis looks nice and stiff (jacked up on passenger front only)

skylinejackeduponeside5sw.th.jpg

ive been fecking with cars for a long time now and in my previous cars i had honed down the engine strip down or removal process time to less than 3 hours but this car has a lot more stuff attached to it and after careful consideration it may prove easier to remove the engine rather than remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds in the car!, and really i need to remove the cylinder head to find out what i need to replace

some of the nuts on the inlet side seem so far away from access it may be impossible with conventional spanners and sockets and the exhaust side isnt much better, the odd pre-rounded off bolt here and there always being in the most inacessable of areas.....

the clutch is a real nasty paddle type so maybe it makes sence to change it during this engine work period anyway eh (well thats my excuse lol)

heres the exhaust side with the heat shields, inlet pipes and other stuff removed

exhaustsidestillintact4cf.th.jpg

i dont intend this to be a quick rebuild...at the mo is about 10 degrees outside and ill be doing all of the work my myself this time so most of the heavy stuff may just have to wait until warmer weather

as mentioned before its a pig of a car to work on but i tackled it like this

remove the inlet hoses from the bonnet area, remove rad and fan to get a bit of room to work in

pipesoff2qn.th.jpg

the down pipe nuts, easier then they look to remove from under the car with a 14mm and extention

downpipesremoved6yt.th.jpg

obviously it also needs to be disconnected from the cat also

i found a load of excess exhaust paste that had gone hard in the cat........now i know what that dam noise was lol

bitsthatmakeyougohmmmmm2vv.th.jpg

the clutch control arm needs to be removed on the pull type arrangement that i have on mine, you need to remove the slave cylinder and then prise a pin and circlip off from the end of the clutch arm inside the box, you gain acess through the hole the arm travels through

after the pin and circlip have been removed pull it away from the thrust bearing

the bottom bellhousing bolts are easy to get to but the top six bolts look almost impossible...if you remove the top and bottom driverside engine mount bolts and the bottom passenger side mount bolt you can jack the engine and then remove the driver side engine mount, the passenger side mount does not need to be removed to get the engine out of the bay

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131056-gtr-engine-removal-rebuild-and-more/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...