Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooper Oil Filters

Logikal

By Logikal,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I have been using them, because I get them where I get my Motul oil and that's what they sell (Autobarn). I'm not an oil filter expert but I haven't had any problems, but maybe I haven't done enough km to be able to tell that the oil filter was sub-standard. I change them every 5000km anyway along with the oil.

Logikal Collaborator

Logikal

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

That was the article that swayed me to buying a cooper filter.

Well that and the price tag of 8 bucks :D

Veruspeed = Nismo

Will give the Cooper a shot and see how that goes. Least its better then a Ryco ;)

Edited by Logikal
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
would be intersting to find out who makes the nissan ones im sure nissan dont make there own they would be outsourced to a filter manufacturer

The ones sold here in Australia are made in China ( thats why they are only $8) . The ones sold in Japan By Nissan are made in Japan .

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

lol... even better.. Mine had Taiwan written on it.

I do remember reading a while back they changed place of manufacturer.

As you can see it has a silicon anti drain valve and some funky lip type looking rubber gasket that had what felt like silicon lube.

post-382-1156143473.jpg

post-382-1156143479.jpg

RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Up until about 2 years ago, when you went to Nissan you got a genuine blue Japanese high quality filter.

Now they have a completely different cheap arse filter that is completely different in filtering medium, anti drainback valve, and seal. Its a grey colour not blue.

I always used genuine Nissan up until 2 years or so until they turned to crap.

I currently use AC Delco oil filters, good filtering medium and filter construction, has a few minor issues, but nothing like some others have.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

hrmm not sure.. the filter is definitely gloss white.

The highchair where I took the pics for example is white, as can be seen in the pics its shown as off white due to the poor white balance.

Either way.. I usually run PureOne filters but was unable to source one quickly, so I decided to check out a genuine nissan. I've cut open a few filters now so I'll split this nissan one open take a few pics and take note of the filter medium.

So far I've pulled apart quite a few.

Cooper, Ryco, PureOne, Purulator Premium & K&N.

The genuine nissan filter definitely didn't give a first impression of a cheaply made filter, time will tell, I'll split the sucker open. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DRoc81
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By DRoc81 · Posted

      I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Milkmun
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By Milkmun · Posted

      At least it was the ex.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Troubleshooting - motor wont turn over

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I was chatting with an ex SAU person who is involved in chooning euros now. He was saying the factory cars like Audi VW etc have something like 2000 tables that the ECU uses for getting everything "just right". Compare that back to any aftermarket ECU, and you'd be hard pressed to surpass 50 lookup tables. Even the Ford Barra engine has a few hundred lookup tables to run it (and they're still working some tables out too!)
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Grab a temp probe, and probe each exhaust inlet runner with it sitting idling. Each one should be pretty darn close to the same temp. If you've got some reading higher or lower than the others, it's likely either air flow isn't equal, or your injectors aren't equal to each other.   The other things to check, is from the wiring changes that were made, were any earth's or grounds moved/changed.   Lastly, for the strut brace issue. It's not perfect, but can you get away with slipping a washer or two under the strut brace to raise it, and it still clean the bonnet? If you can, work out the height you need, that the motor can't torque up into, and get a spacer made for each side.
×
×
  • Create New...