Haltech V Apexi Power Fc

[R31Nismoid]

I sorta agree Chris.

things like 2stage launch, nitrous... Are all things that serve no benefit to a street application, and debatable even for circuit work for both of them.

2-stage launch/nitrous is predominately drag only in terms of application. Being on is illegal on the street, and the need for launch would be illegal in terms of street racing.

Logging - i would certainly agree with however. Except for a street car where i dont think its a requirement at all more than what a HC/display would give you realtime

Dash - can be handy aswell, but dash add-ons you have to pay for anyhow dont you? I dont think they are freebies?

We have to remember the demographic of skyline owners sometimes as it plays a part.

Most are young, not cashed up, and no real requirement for anything more than 250rwkw-300rwkw most of the time as they arent going to have the car longer than 3-4 years, which the car will do 99% of its km's on the street

That said, if i was in Russia, only one tuner in the country and he said he could use Haltech the best, then thats what i would be using. Rather than handing him a PowerFC and have a donkey tune

There are lots of things to consider

[copycutter]

What would you do if you were in my position?

My car, since the conversion, has had the worst idle problem and i cannot for the life of me figure it out.

The car just will not run when its warm. I've tried cleaning the IAC, TPS, AFM etc etc etc and i cannot get this problem gone.

I'm sure everyone can appreciate how infuriating it is to own a car with an engine that flatly refuses to run...

I was told that these problems are occurring due to the wiring loom not being correctly set up.

I was going to use the Power FC, but what if this is correct and when i plug in the Power FC in to my 'faulty' loom, it won't fix the problem. Re-setting up of the wiring costs hundreds in itself.

My other option is to purchase a Haltech/Microtech which includes completely rewiring the engine, which should hopefully fix the problem, or if not at least give me some clue.

Can the Power FC tell me is a sensor like the TPS is causing these problems?

If anyone in the Brisbane or Gold Coast area has remotely any idea about this I will pay for your help if need be!!

Edited September 21, 2006 by tuna_144

[paulr33]

whats actually wrong? the loom is just wires, they are either connected or they aren't, they can't like have packet loss or anything, unless you have like half connected wiring, or a badly spliced loom. what debugging can the haltech give you? does it have real time sensor output? what about logging?

if the TPS sensor is shagged PFC will enable the engine check light and show it highlighted in black in the sensor check screen (seen here)

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...faq/r33_pfc.jpg

by shagged, the voltage is out of range of the factory scope, ie: if its too low or too high, outside the nissan specs, the PFC will throw error and highlight the shagged sensor.

[Cubes]

What would you do if you were in my position?

My car, since the conversion, has had the worst idle problem and i cannot for the life of me figure it out.

The car just will not run when its warm. I've tried cleaning the IAC, TPS, AFM etc etc etc and i cannot get this problem gone.

I'm sure everyone can appreciate how infuriating it is to own a car with an engine that flatly refuses to run...

I was told that these problems are occurring due to the wiring loom not being correctly set up.

I was going to use the Power FC, but what if this is correct and when i plug in the Power FC in to my 'faulty' loom, it won't fix the problem. Re-setting up of the wiring costs hundreds in itself.

My other option is to purchase a Haltech/Microtech which includes completely rewiring the engine, which should hopefully fix the problem, or if not at least give me some clue.

Can the Power FC tell me is a sensor like the TPS is causing these problems?

If anyone in the Brisbane or Gold Coast area has remotely any idea about this I will pay for your help if need be!!

I've diagnosed loom problems with my pfc with I had an AFM loom problem.

Your tuner should be able to do the same.

[copycutter]

thanks guys.

So you think that there would be no real reason for me to get a haltech/microtech for that reason?

A Power FC plugged in would be able to read out what sensors are not operating correctly?

What if it doesnt pick up the problem?

[Duncan]

well I haven't used a PFC to find sensor or wiring problems, but I have done it with the standard ECU and Consult (very similar but a bit easier since it uses a laptop interface).

You just need to monitor the value of the key sensors, and understand what they should be reading at certain circumstances. eg the AFM should move between about 1v and 4.5v as it moves up the rev range. TPS 0-1v depending on how hard you push the throttle etc. The GTR workshop manual has all the sensor ranges.

[copycutter]

Unfortunately for me i doubt the diagnostics capability was connected when the engine was wired.

My rb25 is in a 180sx, not in an r33 skyline.

Someone also mentioned that my stock r33 computer needs the catalytic converter sensor to be connected. Is this true?

[Duncan]

No its not true it is just an cat overheating warning.

When I say diagnostics I just mean looking at the output of the sensors, I am pretty sure the PFC shows you this. They are meant to operate in a certain range, you just need to check it out for anything that doesn't look right.