Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did you get longer studs?

If you read above they werent going to even make the spacers until they had seen that I had replaced my studs. So in answer to the question yes. It cost something like $70 for all the studs to be done by my mechanic.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have 25mm bolt on spacers on my R32 GTR - and this is was my understating is on a couple of the issues you have raised

As far as I know the law in QLD states that it is illegal to alter the overall track (width) of a vehicle by more than 25mm when fitting non-oem wheels. This applies to ALL wheels with or without spacers. Any decent mag wheel shop should be able to tell you this.

So, if the mags you fit do not have the same offset as the original Nissan wheels that came with your car, and the spacers return the overall track to within 25mm of original - they should be fine. I've had a 911 in my past that had spacers fitted in the factory ???

I've also had problems with a steering shudder at around 100kmls - but I swapped my spacers around and the problem went away. I agree, in that it's the spacer that is not balanced (buy better spacers :))

I also know that fitting spacers alters the geometry of the steering – which can put additional stress on the front end - my upper control arms failed almost straight away for example.

I also get quite bad 'tram-lining' on some roads – like the freeway (car seems to follow the ruts in the road). I've been told this is also due to the spacers (SK told me this – so it MUST be true :))

just my 2c worth – all opinion – little fact :)

Well I fitted mine (as pictured in the other post) just earlier today. They fit DAMN snug. They needed a little tap to fit nicely on the hub. They wheels then fitted, not quite so sug to the lip on them. Over all Im quite happy. The car drives very smooth, no problems yet.

One tip with them tho is, do it when the car is cold :( hubs heat up a bit, which means they expand, which means its a bit tricky getting the spacer on.

im actually doing a bit of research for a mate of mine, as my GTR R33 wheels are going on his S14A. out of these opitions, what do u guys think is the best spacer made???

hes trying to get spacers from places like nengun or greenline, would those ones be all right?? or he should get some wheel shop to get them?? cheers

Doesn't really matter where he gets them from, they are all illegal and he will void his insurance for fitting them. They are illegal for a reason I might add.

I'll try to find some for you as requested Frank but just thought I would point out the not so obvious for some people who might not already know.

Well I fitted mine (as pictured in the other post) just earlier today. They fit DAMN snug. They needed a little tap to fit nicely on the hub. They wheels then fitted, not quite so sug to the lip on them. Over all Im quite happy. The car drives very smooth, no problems yet.

One tip with them tho is, do it when the car is cold :ninja: hubs heat up a bit, which means they expand, which means its a bit tricky getting the spacer on.

Dave why did you remove them originally?

I still get slight vibrations through the steering wheel after numerous alignments, wondering whether its the 5mm slip on spacers I have and whether something like you had made will help out?

Dave why did you remove them originally?

I still get slight vibrations through the steering wheel after numerous alignments, wondering whether its the 5mm slip on spacers I have and whether something like you had made will help out?

I had crappy slip on ones, they are the rusty ones in the pics I put up on the first page. Hence wanting to change them, to what I have now being the machined ones.

A slight vibration could be also a poor wheel alinement, or even wheel balance. Could well be the spacers too :ninja:

I got mine as they are safter than the typical slip on type most people have. They are still a bit of a bandaid, but a very good one.

i was told by someone today my rims do fit on a S14 without spacers, great news......

rolling the guards is not illegal, is it??? lol....

Everything is illegal, just depends on the cop that pulls you over. :)

Who has spacers? - me

What size are they? - 20mm

Floaters or actual bolt in ones? - bolt on

What car is it on? - r33 s2

What is the law in QLD? - take a guess

i would recommend getting 25mm at least (easy to fit). on mine i had to take about 5mm off of each stud, all 20 of them :) that was exciting.

as per handling and high speed stability they are great (not sure about some ppl say their car shakes and stuff - do proper wheel alignment!)

the only thing now is my wheels + spacers make an offset of +25 so i can't lower the car as much as some ppl do without rolling the guards, but im happy with the way it is now :D

included a few pic of them on (also have photos of car before and after, pm me if interested)

post-24624-1157461082.jpg

post-24624-1157461094.jpg

Edited by WhitePrincess
Doesn't really matter where he gets them from, they are all illegal and he will void his insurance for fitting them. They are illegal for a reason I might add.

I'll try to find some for you as requested Frank but just thought I would point out the not so obvious for some people who might not already know.

I'm keen on a pair of 8mm lightweight jap made ones if anyone can help.. One of my front 5mm is cracked... keen to replace it and at the same time delete the need to run two spacers each side.

Ok didnt feel the need to read the whole thread but read enough to get the idea.

My parents own a tyre store here in Townsville which i used to work at. The law states that a spacer to be legal MUST be fixed to either the hub or back of the wheel. So slip on spacer ARE illegal. As far as wether spacers cause shakes or not, yes 99% of them do. but sometimes it is fixableish, but takes alot of time and a shit load of mucking around, and balancing the whell 300 times is not going to fix it. The reason being is that they (spacers) make the whole assembly (of tyre and wheel) out of round, if you jack up one corner of the car and spin the wheel you will get a high spot, this IS what causes the shake 99% of the time. But please also note that poor quality wheels that require hub rings to take up the the area where the centre hole in the wheels is not a snug fit will do exactly the same thing, and believe it or not so do poor quality tyres. Trust me i used to fix these problems every day of the week. Also there is a miss conception the wheel alignment fixes shaking problems....WRONG. A wheel alighment is there to adjust your cars wheel geometry ie caster, camber, toe, SAI etc hence the name wheel ALIGNMENT not wheel BALANCE!

Cheers Daniel

Edited by SLO-89
White Princess

they look hot. how much did they set you back? did you get all 4 or just 2??

i was looking around everywhere for spacers, prices vary a lot :D the best price i could find was here -> http://www.justjap.com/parts_nhubs.htm - got 4 of them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...