Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so I've got an HKS catback, a high flow cat and a split front/dump to go on, yay me. Problem is that the damn dump pipe wants to stay behind. How the hell do I get access to the bolts on the dump pipe? I tried removing the turbo heat shield, but can't access those either (I'll probably drill out the top bolts anyway) here's the pix:

Anyone know a trick I do not? A tool I can use? I'm soaking the bolts overnight with WD40, and I'll have another crack tomorrow night.

post-22183-1156156503.jpg

post-22183-1156156532.jpg

post-22183-1156156563.jpg

post-22183-1156156593.jpg

post-22183-1156156828.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131204-removing-dump-pipe-and-heat-shield/
Share on other sites

^^ yup what evan said..

Soak the crap out of those buts in wd40.. wait for a good 10 mins and try it slowly so you dont snap them..

Ohh and do this when your car is cold..

For best results do it on a hoist with the right tools!!

be patient and it will come off.

i'm about to do this myself, so i'll let you know. BUT what i have done, is WD40 the dump pipe everynight, so that when i come to take it off it will actually come off, LOL.

BE aware, you WILL loose some skin off your knuckles, TRUSTME.

BUt main thing is be carefull, and use the right tool.

i used a long hollow alluminium pipe over the spanner/wrench as leverage. makes it a little bit easier. gonna have to get under the car to remove the those last 2 nuts though. the heat shield is pretty straight forward, just undo all the bolts.

The problem with the heatshield is the wo bolts on the side, There is only a couple cm clearance, so a socket is out, and there's very little gap to actually move a spanner.

And underneath, same problem, I can get the spanner on, but can't revolve it, and getting the leverage is tricky (I stripped a socket already, hence the WD40)

I just thought I must have been doing something wrong, as most people have called it a 1/2 hour job, but when the cars just up on some wheel ramps, and all I have are a few 13mm spanners and some shifters, it makes things trickier.

Oh well, Off to bunnings.

Seriously guys, this is at most a one hour job but you need some decent tools and maybe to learn to modify and bend a spanner or two.

The right sockets and extensions will make life easy as well.

1. remove the O2 sensor using a large shifter

2. get rid of the heat shield. sockets/open end and large offset ring spanners are your friend

3. unbolt the top of the dump

4. jack the car, use safety stands and drop the engine pipe

5. unbolt the rest of the dump

6. replace in reverse order

Be prepared to reach in and use some muscle. Don't worry about a bit of grime, it only washes off

i agree with gtrgeoff with everything except for 1 thing. the o2 sensor is very hard to get out while the dump pipe is still on. it is easiest to take it out after you have removed the dump pipe.

i found i could get the 4 bolts out from the engine bay, and had to get the 2 nuts at the bottom off from under the car.

Never had a problen using a 12" shifter. You holding your tongue right?

i was using a 12" shifter too. the problem was the angle that it was on, i couldn't get the shifter on unless it was near vertical to the dump pipe. if the o2 sensor had been 1/4 of a turn in either direction it would've been fine. but i didn't seen any point stuffing around with it for half an hour while its in the car, when i could just do it when the dump pipe is out of the car and do it much easier. it doesn't make any difference to the rest of the job, so if you don't get it out first attempt when it is in the car, just take the dump pipe off, then take the sensor out.

OK, got the bitch tonight.

To others trying this, a couple of things.

1. you'll need to cut a 13mm spanner (I used a ring one) in half to get the top drivers nut.

2. There is no such thing as too much WD-40. Spray that stuff on there until your eyes water, then spray some more.

3. Anyone want to buy a stock exhaust, front pipe, cat and dump pipe?

OK, got the bitch tonight.

To others trying this, a couple of things.

1. you'll need to cut a 13mm spanner (I used a ring one) in half to get the top drivers nut.

2. There is no such thing as too much WD-40. Spray that stuff on there until your eyes water, then spray some more.

3. Anyone want to buy a stock exhaust, front pipe, cat and dump pipe?

hahaha

2. There is no such thing as too much WD-40. Spray that stuff on there until your eyes water, then spray some more.

SOOO true Im in the middle of performing the same stunt and i used a whole can I was so pissed off at it! Just be warned that too much and you cant use your tools due to the shedload od WD40 youve used

OK, the pipe is on, but, true to my luck, there is still one problem.

one bolt (the centre line passenger side) won't go in. It just does not bite the thread and bore in. Naturally, it's the hardest to get to. I've tried a new bolt, more WD-40, extra force in all to no effect. I even tried to get a smaller bolt in there, but there is no room for the nut.

Any suggestions? Just how necessary is the middle bolt? (I've got the 4 corner ones in fine, and the centre drivers side went in too)

The cat and cat back is on no worries.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 馃ゲ But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
  • Create New...