Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so I've got an HKS catback, a high flow cat and a split front/dump to go on, yay me. Problem is that the damn dump pipe wants to stay behind. How the hell do I get access to the bolts on the dump pipe? I tried removing the turbo heat shield, but can't access those either (I'll probably drill out the top bolts anyway) here's the pix:

Anyone know a trick I do not? A tool I can use? I'm soaking the bolts overnight with WD40, and I'll have another crack tomorrow night.

post-22183-1156156503.jpg

post-22183-1156156532.jpg

post-22183-1156156563.jpg

post-22183-1156156593.jpg

post-22183-1156156828.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131204-removing-dump-pipe-and-heat-shield/
Share on other sites

^^ yup what evan said..

Soak the crap out of those buts in wd40.. wait for a good 10 mins and try it slowly so you dont snap them..

Ohh and do this when your car is cold..

For best results do it on a hoist with the right tools!!

be patient and it will come off.

i'm about to do this myself, so i'll let you know. BUT what i have done, is WD40 the dump pipe everynight, so that when i come to take it off it will actually come off, LOL.

BE aware, you WILL loose some skin off your knuckles, TRUSTME.

BUt main thing is be carefull, and use the right tool.

i used a long hollow alluminium pipe over the spanner/wrench as leverage. makes it a little bit easier. gonna have to get under the car to remove the those last 2 nuts though. the heat shield is pretty straight forward, just undo all the bolts.

The problem with the heatshield is the wo bolts on the side, There is only a couple cm clearance, so a socket is out, and there's very little gap to actually move a spanner.

And underneath, same problem, I can get the spanner on, but can't revolve it, and getting the leverage is tricky (I stripped a socket already, hence the WD40)

I just thought I must have been doing something wrong, as most people have called it a 1/2 hour job, but when the cars just up on some wheel ramps, and all I have are a few 13mm spanners and some shifters, it makes things trickier.

Oh well, Off to bunnings.

Seriously guys, this is at most a one hour job but you need some decent tools and maybe to learn to modify and bend a spanner or two.

The right sockets and extensions will make life easy as well.

1. remove the O2 sensor using a large shifter

2. get rid of the heat shield. sockets/open end and large offset ring spanners are your friend

3. unbolt the top of the dump

4. jack the car, use safety stands and drop the engine pipe

5. unbolt the rest of the dump

6. replace in reverse order

Be prepared to reach in and use some muscle. Don't worry about a bit of grime, it only washes off

i agree with gtrgeoff with everything except for 1 thing. the o2 sensor is very hard to get out while the dump pipe is still on. it is easiest to take it out after you have removed the dump pipe.

i found i could get the 4 bolts out from the engine bay, and had to get the 2 nuts at the bottom off from under the car.

Never had a problen using a 12" shifter. You holding your tongue right?

i was using a 12" shifter too. the problem was the angle that it was on, i couldn't get the shifter on unless it was near vertical to the dump pipe. if the o2 sensor had been 1/4 of a turn in either direction it would've been fine. but i didn't seen any point stuffing around with it for half an hour while its in the car, when i could just do it when the dump pipe is out of the car and do it much easier. it doesn't make any difference to the rest of the job, so if you don't get it out first attempt when it is in the car, just take the dump pipe off, then take the sensor out.

OK, got the bitch tonight.

To others trying this, a couple of things.

1. you'll need to cut a 13mm spanner (I used a ring one) in half to get the top drivers nut.

2. There is no such thing as too much WD-40. Spray that stuff on there until your eyes water, then spray some more.

3. Anyone want to buy a stock exhaust, front pipe, cat and dump pipe?

OK, got the bitch tonight.

To others trying this, a couple of things.

1. you'll need to cut a 13mm spanner (I used a ring one) in half to get the top drivers nut.

2. There is no such thing as too much WD-40. Spray that stuff on there until your eyes water, then spray some more.

3. Anyone want to buy a stock exhaust, front pipe, cat and dump pipe?

hahaha

2. There is no such thing as too much WD-40. Spray that stuff on there until your eyes water, then spray some more.

SOOO true Im in the middle of performing the same stunt and i used a whole can I was so pissed off at it! Just be warned that too much and you cant use your tools due to the shedload od WD40 youve used

OK, the pipe is on, but, true to my luck, there is still one problem.

one bolt (the centre line passenger side) won't go in. It just does not bite the thread and bore in. Naturally, it's the hardest to get to. I've tried a new bolt, more WD-40, extra force in all to no effect. I even tried to get a smaller bolt in there, but there is no room for the nut.

Any suggestions? Just how necessary is the middle bolt? (I've got the 4 corner ones in fine, and the centre drivers side went in too)

The cat and cat back is on no worries.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...