Jump to content
SAU Community

98 Ron Can Cost You Power


luckydip
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok for those that know him, hazkells Supra (7MGTE) went from 148rwkw (95RON) to 182rwkw (98RON), there was a slight boost increase...

this was on the same dyno with the same tuner and both tunes done about the same time of the year

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have changed to 98 ron, Prior to running 98, I sometimes used shell pulp and sometimes the knock would go to 30. Since runnind 98 ron, my knock hasn't gone over 13. I wouldn't say its has anymore power, but with less knock its well worth it. I haven't had it tuned for 98 yet but will do in the near future.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys,

Heres my 2 bobs worth.

I have been using BP Ultimate (98 RON) for the last year in my 32 GTR. Before it became available at the pump I was purchasing from Selfs Point in 200 litre drums. Car is tuned at Pro Automotive and I certainly noticed the power increase.

I raced my car at Baskerville couple weeks ago using BP Ultimate purchased out of the bowser from BP Brooker Hwy. The car actually felt down on power to me and felt reluctant to hit the rev limiter.

So I also share a concern on the quality of the current fuel.

Rod.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well........ As the person selling it, all i have heard are good reviews. Ultimate is 98 at minimum, closer to 99. The stuff has four times the detergents than regular fuel which means it cleans your engine and prevents build up, also anti-corrosion. Just for that i'd put it in my car. I think one of the main causes that produced the knock in my car that lead to the detonation on the way back from Devonport was because of the fresh tank of PULP after running it on 98RON in Melbourne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well........ As the person selling it, all i have heard are good reviews. Ultimate is 98 at minimum, closer to 99. The stuff has four times the detergents than regular fuel which means it cleans your engine and prevents build up, also anti-corrosion. Just for that i'd put it in my car. I think one of the main causes that produced the knock in my car that lead to the detonation on the way back from Devonport was because of the fresh tank of PULP after running it on 98RON in Melbourne

Still doesn't explain the mixed results everyone has been getting with the 98. I can understand those that haven't had tunes not seeing any difference but for the many that have paid for dyno time and have ultimately taken a step backwards, it doest really say much for that!!!

Like i mentioned before i run the truck (454 big block) on 98 and it does run better (pulls better down low and easier while towing) but i have also used it in a few other vehicle (cars & bikes) and i haven't seen any difference and not going to rush out to tune with it at the moment either!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well at $4-8 dollars a tank I think it is worth the risk. standard ECU's run super rich and safe so you are not going the get a leg-up from slower burning fuel.

The guys runing 3rd aprty ECU's and dedicated tunes are going to see a difference for sure... and it wont always be good.

One problem we have in Tassie is volume, it will sit in the ground and in a tank that has been used for a couple of different fuels in the past. The boat I believe brings all fuels so there can be cross contamination there... add all the little things up and it is not ideal.

We have used elf for the last 3 years... not always for performance gains - but just the fact it is consistent.

I can't get over the people on these forums who spend hundreds of hours and countless dollars on performance mods, then skimp on fuel.

While the power output via a standard ECU may be marginal or even down - I am reasonably comfortable saying that it would not be harming your car.

As for knock - all the Apexi users should know within ten minutes of filling up if the fuel is sus...

Now Rosie - I am to undertand you have lunched another engine? Phew, thats gotta hurt - I hope not.

My 2 Bob

TT

'bout time you got a Val dipster. Will give you a ring next time I'm going...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just out of interest, the people experiencing losses, do they have piggy-backs or stand alones?

I find with my SAFC II that it goes out of tune after a while anyway due to the stock ecu constantly learning and altering it's settings.

Before I go and get a retune for 98RON I'll be resetting the ecu, using 98RON for at least a few weeks, and then getting the tune redone.

With a stand alone I gather you should be able to dial in some more timing straight off the bat as you are the one inputting the settings into the ecu as apposed to the ecu learning and altering for itself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kerry

1. elf LMS (now WRC)

2. Devonport Tyres I think

3. when I last bought $980 for 200

4. The only 102RON fuel I have used... horse power in a drum!

Will be looking at all options for the Valiant, but it will need to be very attractive to change.. one reason to c hange is we will probabley get away with 98 given our stock tune.

But if you want "Numbers McLaren" to dial up the goods, use the good stuff

TT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kerry

1. elf LMS (now WRC)

2. Devonport Tyres I think

3. when I last bought $980 for 200

4. The only 102RON fuel I have used... horse power in a drum!

Will be looking at all options for the Valiant, but it will need to be very attractive to change.. one reason to c hange is we will probabley get away with 98 given our stock tune.

But if you want "Numbers McLaren" to dial up the goods, use the good stuff

TT

For everyones benfit as I emailed this to BOV and Kerry.

Sunaco GT plus - 102RON - $740 a drum - Scott Foster.

Awesome stuff and comparable with Elf WRC... Elf won't agree with that statment ofcourse, but its seeing the same numbers on the dyno.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Little more work!  Did some body work on the rear wheel arches and since the paint was a cheap spray job before figured I’d do something to tide me over until I wrap the car.    Colour might not be everyone’s choice but I like it and it’s only temporary, just hate having primer from the wheel arches standing out.    Keeping an eye out for a decent set of wheels to throw on now. Wheels and tires on the car are junk
    • Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together     The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
    • What are you doing with the car? street car or race car? People get hung up on the squat of the s/r chassis rears. There is positives to the squat if a car is setup and driven correctly for it (correct ride height, spring rate, alignment, damper valving). Generally just lengthen the rear traction arm by 5-10mm and that will help the squat and bump steer too. You are also correct with the roll centre too. This too also needs to be adjustable if you start messing with suspension geometry.   Having done quiet a bit of testing on race cars this year in regards to rear squat, I've seen some big positives from it in regards to drive off corners and traction. 
    • I find I am using the MX5 for everything except long overnight cruises with Jackie, or, if picking up the kids to go somewhere, the SS has so much more room inside, and is much more comfortable if your going to be doing Hwy driving for 6-8 hours And the MX5 isn't bad in stop go traffic for a manual transmission car, whilst the clutch kit has been upgraded from stock, it is still light, and also not having a stupidly light flywheel in it helps as well, I've spent alot of time sitting on the M5, M4 and M7 stuck in traffic when plodding around the Greater Sydney Region in it Another benefit is MX5's are not really a car that gets stolen, you can pretty much park it anywhere, and it will still be there when you return
    • I can totally get why you like it for that sort of commute. I was thinking BoganDore because it's such a lazy drive, for things like stop start traffic.   I used to do over an hour in stop start shit from one side of Bris to the next, twice a day. My choice of car was larger displacement, with an auto. Basically for torque in low rpm/very low speed, and no clutch pedal. But loved a fun manual for the weekends, which the partner has (plus had the LandCruiser too for other fun drives). I now have an EV as a work car, and I tell ya what, ultimate daily driver, especially if youre out of energy, like I often am after work. I don't even need to touch the brake pedal   That said, I'm presently rebuilding the Liberty GTB to get it setup for weekend drives and track abuse! So small high revving turbo engine with 6 speed cog swapper!   But for your style of commute, I'd probably take the MX5 too!   For those choices, I'm ignoring fuel economy. Because I know how atrocious V8 daily life is for fuel from when I used to daily a manual SS, ha ha. Hence why I know I love the daily rumble of a V8
×
×
  • Create New...