Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well i can say one thing, some like there things is small packages and some like it in big. but what they dont know is that the small packages carry one of the most durable engines in the world. the bugatti is overresearched, overengineerd, to much to play with, for example put a 800-900 HP GTR with all supporting circuit modification nex to a bugati veyron around a lap of say silverstone UK. id be a 100 % cetrain that the bugatti would shit in its pants kepping up. the car is as wide as some of the roads in my country, being a mechanical engineer myself i realy dont like that car, give me my self built 600HP car anyday, di dont need a factory telling me that i should pay $1 M for it.

there is a (modified) r33 gtr in a motor mag i have that clocked about 315kmh at avalon airport. beat a lambo which only got about 308kmh. but that took longer than 14 seconds to get it.

but it isn't that unreasonable to think it is possible. just look at the top fuel drag cars. they hit 400kmh in under 5 seconds, 100kmh in 1 second.

No they hit 520km/h in 4.5 sec

The

0-300 in under 14 secs has benn done by more than 1 GTR

And as for the Bugatti i cant wait till these things are 3 years old and falling apart-Bugatti built Quality is shite

This argument is dead. The Bugatti is a massive feat of engineering and an amazing car. It was purely a "can we do it?" type excercise - never meant to be marketed as a profitable production car.

The fact that they ONLY cost $2mill each (when estimated R&D costs of $5mill per car have been thrown around) is amazing.

The car is gorgeous, more practical than ANY 1000hp Skyline and passes emissions in some of the strictest nations on earth.

It wins. Period.

Adrian

No they hit 520km/h in 4.5 sec

now that sounds more accurate, i also believe they hit 100MPH in under a second, not km/h. crazy sh!t

and yes it hink the bugatti is a feat of engineering. an everyday supercar?

now that sounds more accurate, i also believe they hit 100MPH in under a second, not km/h. crazy sh!t

and yes it hink the bugatti is a feat of engineering. an everyday supercar?

Yep also its 100mph in around 1 sec

Basically when the fueller launches from a standing start ,by the time the rear wheels reach where the front wheels were its doing 100mph-so the lenght of the car which is 300 inchs its doing 100mph. And no bugatti driver will ever know what that feels like :(

And no bugatti driver will ever know what that feels like

but a bugatti won't also know what it feels like to rebuild the motor after 10 seconds of flat out use (burnout plus race).

and the 100kmh was for a funnycar, my bad. i used to have a poster (about 9 years ago) of a 300zx funny car that had the times on it. it was 0-100kmh in 1.1 seconds. thats the only fidure off the poster i remember.

but a bugatti won't also know what it feels like to rebuild the motor after 10 seconds of flat out use (burnout plus race).

and the 100kmh was for a funnycar, my bad. i used to have a poster (about 9 years ago) of a 300zx funny car that had the times on it. it was 0-100kmh in 1.1 seconds. thats the only fidure off the poster i remember.

Must of been an Alcohol funny car-cause the Nitro funny cars are nearly as quick as the Top Fuel rails

Yeah like to see Bugatti build an engine with 7500hp and not need constant rebuilding

Ill take the Fueller anyday for a 'real' adrenilin rush :/

Edited by gtr660hp

For the record, Top Fuellers cross the line at 300mph (483km/h) plus... from a standstill... in 4.5 seconds. They actually do 0-190 or 0-200 (can't remember exactly) in 0.9 sec, which is their 60ft time incidentally. Farkin amazing. I believe the Yanks are a bit quicker again thanks to heaps more exposure and sponsorship dollars and more money in the tracks, with trap speeds of 320mph+.

But yes, anyone who says that building something like the Veyron is anything short of a stunning feat of engineering has no idea what they are talking about.

Found this on the net, quite interesting re Top Fuel stuff

One dragster's 500-inch Hemi makes more horsepower then the first 8 rows at Daytona. Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1 1/2 gallons of nitro per second, the same rate of fuel consumption as a fully loaded 747, but with 4times the energy volume.

The supercharger takes more power to drive then a stock hemi makes.

Even with nearly 3000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into nearly-solid form before ignition.

Cylinders run on the verge of hydraulic lock.

Dual magnetos apply 44 amps to each spark plug. This is the output of an arc welder in each cylinder.

At stoichiometric (exact) 1.7:1 air/fuel mixture (for nitro), the flame front of nitro methane measures 7050 degrees F.

Nitro methane burns yellow. The spectacular white flame seen above the stacks at night is raw burning hydrogen, dissociated from atmospheric water vapor by the searing exhaust gases.

Spark plug electrodes are totally consumed during a pass. After 1/2 way, the engine is dieseling from compression plus the glow of exhaust valves at1400 degrees F. The engine can only be shut down by cutting off it's fuel flow.

If spark momentarily fails early in the run, unburned nitro builds up in those cylinders and then explodes with a force that can blow cylinder heads off the block in pieces or blow the block in half.

Dragsters twist the crank (torsionally) so far (20 degrees in the big end of the track) that sometimes cam lobes are ground offset from front to rear to re-phase the valve timing somewhere closer to synchronization with the pistons.

To exceed 300mph in 4.5 seconds dragsters must accelerate at an average of over 4G's. But in reaching 200 mph well before 1/2 track, launch acceleration is closer to 8G's.

If all the equipment is paid off, the crew worked for free, and for once NOTHING BLOWS UP, each run costs $1000.00 per second.

Dragsters reach over 300 miles per hour before you have read this sentence. * Top Fuel Engines ONLY turn 540 revolutions from light to light!

The redline is actually quite high at 9500rpm.

To give you an idea of this acceleration, the current TF dragster elapsed time record is 4.477 seconds for the quarter mile. This means that you could be coming across the starting line in your average Lingenfelter powered "twin-turbo" Corvette at 200 mph (on a FLYING START) and the dragster would BEAT you to the finish line FROM A DEAD STOP in a quarter mile distance!

The Veyron isn't legal on australian roads, Yes, How stable do you think anything is at 400km/h 10cm off the ground, no neither can the veyron, driving anything with 1000hp+ isn't easy regardless of it's handling the veyron is no exception, Give me a 1/2 of the price of a veyron and I will build you a skyline based car that will out do one in every aspect

Yep. That's why I said nominally legal. At the very least, its left hand drive only option makes it non street legal. The Veyron is street legal in Europe. Will your 1000hp Skyline be? Will the engine be as flexible? Will it be as drivable around town as it is flat out?Will it meet European emissions tests?

And I think that its very possible for cars to be stable at 400km/hr and 10cm off the ground, if the aero and suspension is done correctly. It used to be improbable that cars could be stable at 200km/hr - most modern sports cars will do that easily.

Just because you don't think its possible doesn't mean its not so. Its possible you have a small mind.

And as for the Bugatti i cant wait till these things are 3 years old and falling apart-Bugatti built Quality is shite

Skoda build quality used to be shit too. As did Lamborghini's. That was until Volkswagen took over them, and enforced their quality control onto those companies. The Veyron is no different.

Brand name history mean almost nothing these days in terms of quality. These days you can expect your Ferrari to spend less time in the workshop than on the road (unheard of back in the 80's), and a Mercedes Benz is no longer built to outlast the pyramids.

did anyone see beyond tomoro last night? they had the konengsieg (spelling) on it. they are going for the speed record soon in their new car. and it is only $650,000. it did hold the speed record till the veyron came along.

although it set the record at 388kmh (maclaren was 387), even though the maclaren hit 391kmh on an unofficial run.

at speed i think both the veyron and the konengsieg would handle better than a skyline. it is not just to do with the suspension, but the aero of them. even if you ad big wings and that sort of thing they still won't have the aerodynamics of these cars.

there is a (modified) r33 gtr in a motor mag i have that clocked about 315kmh at avalon airport. beat a lambo which only got about 308kmh. but that took longer than 14 seconds to get it.

That'll be Tony's GTR - built by RacePace if I'm not mistaken...

Looking at the fastest accelerating list of cars -

12 - Ariel Atom 2 300 2.88secs 0-100

By far the best considering cost v/s bang - my colleague is the OZ distributor (www.openwheelers.co.nz)

**Shameless PLUG !!**

$100K for face contorting performance!!

did anyone see beyond tomoro last night? they had the konengsieg (spelling) on it. they are going for the speed record soon in their new car. and it is only $650,000. it did hold the speed record till the veyron came along.

although it set the record at 388kmh (maclaren was 387), even though the maclaren hit 391kmh on an unofficial run.

at speed i think both the veyron and the konengsieg would handle better than a skyline. it is not just to do with the suspension, but the aero of them. even if you ad big wings and that sort of thing they still won't have the aerodynamics of these cars.

I saw beyond tomorrow and the koenigsegg ccx is one crazy car.

it set the record of 388 on an oval which limited speed. that was with the ccr. they are attempting to beat bugatti's new record with the ccx. i think that is a tall ask. it is well down on power and torque (although i would put up with these deficiancies). it will need aero on it's side to win this battle.

to the genius on this forum who could build a better bugatti than bugatti do using the bugatti team and budget, i wish you luck and question why bugatti didn't source your expertise in the first place. would your input have been "just make it faster boys". No offence, just jokes. Basically I think bugatti did the best they did with a bunch of brainy engineers.

would your input have been "just make it faster boys".

Basically I think bugatti did the best they did with a bunch of brainy engineers.

Why not, it worked for Bernd Pischetsrieder.

As the CEO of Volkswagen, he told everyone the concept Veyron was going to have 1000hp and do 400km/hr.......which was news to the engineers who could not promise anything near that. When they did preliminary testing and realised that the shape was complete shit for aerodynamics and cooling, they were told to deal with it because Pischetsrieder loved the shape so much it wasn't getting changed.

I reckon the Bugatti / Volkswagen engineers did an awesome job considering the inherent flaws the marketing parasites (as usual) inflicted upon them.

Which means, of course, even a bodyshape as ungainly as a Skyline might be able to do 400km/hr with full stability if you throw enough money at it, and ignore the protests of the engineers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Gotta admit, I love the 20b Cosmo.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...